Aftermarket Thermostat Housing Goose neck
Aftermarket Thermostat Housing Goose neck
For those who end up with the aftermarket thermostat housing with the goose neck that does not line up with the nipple on the water pump. I think I have figured out a fix.
While I was heating up the bypass pipe to bend it, it came out of the casting. After seeing how they installed it and all I was after was just 1/4" to move the end of the pipe closer to the engine. So I cut 1/4" off the end that goes back into the casting. Then heat up the casting to remove the solder and roughen up the surface and clean it good and do the same to the pipe end that goes into the casting its about 1/2". Mix up some JB weld coat both the casting and the pipe end. put the housing back on the motor and line up the two ends pipe to nipple and let it cure.
I tried soldering them at first and cannot get it hot enough to get the solder to suck up into the joint. JB weld has done some marvelous things for me and cannot see why this will not work. this does two things lines up the connection and the space between the pipe and nipple is about 1/8". I cannot try it out yet for holding pressure as my motor is in an engine stand and will not be running for maybe a year or so until my restoration is done.
But all is not lost for getting this part to match up and look good. For those of you who try this please let us all know.
While I was heating up the bypass pipe to bend it, it came out of the casting. After seeing how they installed it and all I was after was just 1/4" to move the end of the pipe closer to the engine. So I cut 1/4" off the end that goes back into the casting. Then heat up the casting to remove the solder and roughen up the surface and clean it good and do the same to the pipe end that goes into the casting its about 1/2". Mix up some JB weld coat both the casting and the pipe end. put the housing back on the motor and line up the two ends pipe to nipple and let it cure.
I tried soldering them at first and cannot get it hot enough to get the solder to suck up into the joint. JB weld has done some marvelous things for me and cannot see why this will not work. this does two things lines up the connection and the space between the pipe and nipple is about 1/8". I cannot try it out yet for holding pressure as my motor is in an engine stand and will not be running for maybe a year or so until my restoration is done.
But all is not lost for getting this part to match up and look good. For those of you who try this please let us all know.
That seems like a good repair tactic. be sure to coat the tube AND The hole before inserting the tube. Twist as you go. Wipe off the excess spooge. JB weld is easily strong enough to do that.
Now, why in the world would one not just procure one of the millions of factory parts that fit right? Why go thru all this? For a prettier tube? fill the imperfections on the OEM part with less time and work.
Now, why in the world would one not just procure one of the millions of factory parts that fit right? Why go thru all this? For a prettier tube? fill the imperfections on the OEM part with less time and work.
That seems like a good repair tactic. be sure to coat the tube AND The hole before inserting the tube. Twist as you go. Wipe off the excess spooge. JB weld is easily strong enough to do that.
Now, why in the world would one not just procure one of the millions of factory parts that fit right? Why go thru all this? For a prettier tube? fill the imperfections on the OEM part with less time and work.
Now, why in the world would one not just procure one of the millions of factory parts that fit right? Why go thru all this? For a prettier tube? fill the imperfections on the OEM part with less time and work.
Why can't the aftermarket people get it right?..... NO BIGGE I DID!
Thanks for the KODO!
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