I haven't adjusted valves in 15 years. What is the best method and specs to go by? I need this done for the 1/8 mile on Saturday, so no rush.

 

http://www.cranecams.com/pdf-tech-tips/hydro-lift.pdf

I do it a little differently, I start at #1, then just run through the firing order, saves a bunch of hand cranking, but can be a bit confusing

 

I just got done doing this on Copper Cutlass' engine. I don't want to discourage you, but you're going to have to do it twice. Once to get it close so you can run the engine, & again after it's hot. You could try to prime the oil pump and turn the engine over while doing it to pump up the lifters, but it's supposed to be done with the engine hot. I realize with new rockers you have to start some where. I recomend following the firing order for ease, and not having to turn over the engine as much. Loosen all the locks. While turning the exhaust push rod screw the outer nut down with your fingers until there's a little resistance. now back it off a hair. Now slowly turn the engine over until the exhaust pushrod starts to move, and you feel resistance to turn it. Now you will adjust the intake valve. While turning the push rod for the intake valve, screw the adjuster nut down until you just start to feel resistance to turn it. Now turn the outer nut 1/4 turn further and while holding it in place, lock the center ellen bolt. Now continue to turn over the engine until you see the intake rocker for that cylinder complete it's cycle. All the way open to all the way closed of the valve. Feel for when the push rod spins freely. Now adjust that cylinder's exhaust rocker the same way. Turn the outer adjuster the same way, until you feel resistance on the push rod while turning it. Now 1/4 turn clockwise with the nut. Now lock the ellen bolt. What you are doing here is adjustng the rocker into the lifter's range. On non performance stock cam set ups you can go 1/2 turn. For racing applications this gives you just a little more room where valve floating may come into play. Now you just have 7 more cylinders to do. I hope this helps you.

 

I've always used "IOEC" intake opening- exhaust closing, never had to do it twice.

 

I do not understand these 2 statements?? We are talking about lifter pre-load on a hydraulic lifter, not valve lash on a solid lifter. At least, I am assuming that. You are setting basically .050 lifter preload, it does not matter if it is hot. I never have to do this twice. BTW, it is easier with the intake off, you can physically see the cup move when you get to zero. The second comment I just don't get at all.

 

Don't you have that backwards? It should be Exhaust open intake closing. The exhaust valve will not always been closed when the intake valve first starts to open, especially on a big cam.

 

Hydraulic lifter cam. I see the spec is half turn past 0 lash. I can do it with the intake off, since I am swapping ported, milled and filled big valve #6 heads with positive seals and double springs. These heads came with these comp roller tip rockers and with the right length pushrods. I am bound and determined to make the track on Saturday.

 

Well, I don't know how precise you want to get, but you could always rotate the engine until the lifters you want to adjust are on the base circle of the cam. While twisting the push rod between your fingers with one hand, tighten the rocker adjusting nut with the other hand until you just start to feel drag while twisting the push rod, (this should put you very close to 0 lash). Then tighten the adjusting nut an additional 1/4 to 1/2 turn.

You can also do this with the engine running. Just loosen the adjusting nut until you can hear the rocker arm "clack clack clack". Slowly tighten the adjusting nut until the noise just goes away, then add an additional 1/4 to 1/2 turn.

Scott

 

I have adjusted them a couple of times since. I think it is close enough now, going to leave it alone. Next I am upping the primary jetting, I have the APT maxed out to run decent.