I have a set of scorpion stud mount roller rockers, and i am curious of which method you guys use to adjusting them? Also any bad experiences with scorpion rockers anyone?? Thanks....

 

Okay I'll jump. I don't have Scorpion's but have Harland Sharp's but adjusting them probably is the same assuming you have poly locks and your cam is a hydraulic type.

Doing one cylinder at time just so I don't get lost, I'll rotate the engine until the exhaust valve begins to open. Now I adjust the intake by tightening the poly lock until zero lash, by turning the push rod with your fingers until you feel resistance. Then I tighten the poly lock almost 1/2 turn more, set the lock screw then turn the poly lock maybe an 1/8 turn more. Now rotate the engine until the intake valve is full open and just begins to close then do the same procedure to adjust the exhaust. You just want to make sure the lifter is on the flat part of the cam lobe. This seems to work for me.

 

I had an issue with the poly locks coming loose even after proper tightening. To resolve this issue, (I think mine were Lunati brand) remove the inner part of the lock (with the allen keyed head) from the hex head portion of the lock. I think they are 9/16 if memory serves.

Anyway... take the inner allen key part of the lock and grind the bottoms flat or near flat with a bench mounted wheel grinder. Simply gives em more bite and more staying power. You may want to even add a dab of blue threadlocker to em if you're running a mild hydraulic cam that doesn't require constant re-adjustment...

I have not played with the Scorpions rockers yet but assuming they are similar... Hope this helps a bit.

 

If you have a balancer that is degreed every 90* its really simple. Get the engine on # 1 at TDC. Set the rockers to a half turn past zero lash. Then turn the engine 90*, adjust the next cylinder in firing order.Keep going tuning and stopping every 90*. Once you do that, all the rockers are adjusted and you had to turn the engine only 2 revolutions.

 

There is a way to do this by just setting #1 tdc and adjusting certain ones then set #6 tdc and adj the rest. Somewhere in the GM world there is a table that shows which valves are adjusted on each setting. I will look and see if I can find my old hand written notes.

 

Here it is ... http://www.thedirtforum.com/chevyvalves.htm

 

I had forgotten about that, when one cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke, the companion cylinder will be at TDC on the exhaust. If you take the firing order and split it in half that will tell you companion cylinder. Example:
1843
6572

 

You try that clearence with the Rhoades Z Max lifters and you will be in BIG trouble. The method is the same but they have clearence like a solid lifter even though they are hydraulic. I have mine set at .035 or 35/1000......

 

not a good method if you have a much larger than stock -- the overlaps interfere and you arent always on the 'heel" of the cam.
using the 90 degree method is fine. Asstated above, the real goal is to for lifter to be on heel of cam when adjusting it.

 

Wow three year old thread!

 

I agree an old thread, however in this case its good info. The right way is the EOIC method. Others will chime in to do it running.

 

For some reason it showed up in the "New Posts" today? Thats why i chimed in today. Honestly i didnt notice the post date. But its still pertinent information.

 

Yes pertinent info it is and thanks for posting.

 

"You try that clearence with the Rhoades Z Max lifters and you will be in BIG trouble. The method is the same but they have clearence like a solid lifter even though they are hydraulic. I have mine set at .035 or 35/1000......"
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The purpose of the hydraulic part of the hydraulic lifter is to continuously adjust the length of the lifter to maintain 0 valve lash as engine temps vary, wear occurs, etc. So, if one adjusts this setup to have 0.035 clearance when the lifter is as long as it will ever be.... how is that different from having a solid lifter? What is the purpose of its hydraulic guts? I would like to learn this. Does not seem to make sense.


Ye Olde Postes:

I will set forth the idea here that this fascination [here and on other such forums] with the age of the original post is kind of pointless. I got chastised for responding to an "old" post when I first joined. Why would I respond to a dusty old thread? Well, the web page offers, at the bottom, "similar topics." With no regard for age thereof. No warning. There was no Newbs File to read cautioning against reviving the long dead. SO, with no warning that it may be a Bad Idea, the newb hits the link, adds this or that, and revives the long dead post to the chagrin of someone somewhere.

Now, I am not a programming expert, but I know that if/then statements exist. If it bothers the Gods so much that Ye Olde Postes are revived, then... put in a damn detour on them helpfully provided "similar posts" links:

IF the original date is over [x number of days/ years] old, THEN tell the user "You are about to visit a thread that is x number of (things) old.... [insert caution about how to behave here], lest you arouse the ire of other users."

Maybe make the original date flashing red text if it is over x number of days or years old, to get the attention of the user, if it matters that much. There's a lot that could be done.... if it matters. What, pray tell, is the horrid consequence if we just let this run wild, and all manner of related threads get dredged up again? One assumes that the forum audience varies from day to day, at least in part. Therefore, every day there are folks to whom valve adjusting is new and fresh info, even of the original info was set forth in 1955. If you have seen all that and know all about it... just press on to other newer topics.

To a point, I can see why sometimes reviving an old post might not be so clever- say, the OP showed up once, 5 yrs ago, and has not been back since. Details of buggy whip construction, or similar useless information. However, valve adjustments is a task that will always be pertinent to someone somewhere on any given day. Let's say one needs to know the diameter of the OAI holes in the inner fender of the '69 W31... It matters not if that was first asked in 1970, or yesterday. It's still a valid informational need. What is the alternative- to start a new thread on say valve adjusting, over and over and over, 100's of times, just so we have a "fresh" one?

Olde Threads Matter!