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I have a 71 with factory air. Looks like a number of brackets need to come off to get the water pump out. Other than the alternator, I don't see how tension is adjusted for the power steering and A/C systems. Any advice on teardown sequence and how to replace and get those belts tight? While I'm there I figured the leaking fuel pump needs replacement too. Am I correct that I need to take off that A/C bracket to accomplish this? I'm not able to wiggle it out.
If the timing chain set hasn't been replaced now would be a good time because you are only a few more bolts away. There are multiple threads on how to adjust the power steering, I listed one below.
Don't disconnect the AC hoses, simply take the bolts out of the brackets and move the whole thing out of the way.
The bolts and spacers on that task are various, stay organized and keep track of exactly where each item belongs. Be careful not to strip the threads on the small bolts on the pump that go into the front cover.
X2 on checking/replacing the timing set. It can be viewed through the fuel pump mounting hole with a borescope. If the cam gear still has nylon teeth changing it is important.
The bolts and spacers on that task are various, stay organized and keep track of exactly where each item belongs. Be careful not to strip the threads on the small bolts on the pump that go into the front cover.
X2 on checking/replacing the timing set. It can be viewed through the fuel pump mounting hole with a borescope. If the cam gear still has nylon teeth changing it is important.
What is the deflection amount on the chain that's acceptable?
I'm gonna dig into that PS pump tonight as I don't recall seeing that tensioning tab on the bracket of mine -- Hopefully, I'm wrong.
Deflection amount...1 inch? I don't think there is an actual spec. Of more concern than deflection though is nylon teeth on the cam gear which was O.E. If the nylon is present no matter how tight the chain is consider replacement.
Re: tightening the PS, don't pry at all as in zero on the PS reservoir, it will dent and leak.
Last edited by Sugar Bear; Mar 31, 2025 at 10:15 AM.
Thanks -- the motor has over 90k miles on it so if I see the nylon gears, I'll add a replacement timing set to my ever increasing list of stuff to do "while I'm there".
I recently replaced the power steering pump on my '73 Delta 88, which also has a 350.
Here's a photo of the old pump removed from the car but still attached to the bracket. This is looking at it from the front. The pulley has been removed.
To adjust belt tension, you loosen bolt #1, then loosen bolt #2 and rotate the whole pump one way or the other to get the proper tension. Then tighten bolt 2 followed by bolt 1. These are not the easiest to get at when the pump is on the car because they're behind the pulley, and sometimes it's easier to get at bolt 1 from under the car.
Thanks -- the motor has over 90k miles on it so if I see the nylon gears, I'll add a replacement timing set to my ever increasing list of stuff to do "while I'm there".
B
Timing chain replacement is getting a little more involved than just removing the cover.
It seats down on the oil pan so dropping the pan enough to get the front cover off and and back on without leaks will be your next task.....
The bolts and spacers on that task are various, stay organized and keep track of exactly where each item belongs. Be careful not to strip the threads on the small bolts on the pump that go into the front cover.
X2 on checking/replacing the timing set. It can be viewed through the fuel pump mounting hole with a borescope. If the cam gear still has nylon teeth changing it is important.
Don't you have to remove the harmonic balance to change the timing gear and chain?
