71 350 rebuild
#2
I would assume the machine shop milled the heads and decked the block, look at the paperwork. Those two might make up half of the thickness of the new head gaskets. What cam are you using?
#4
That is a mild cam for 10+ to 1 compression. I hope you have 93 octane, a proper tune on the carb and a conservative timing curve. I ran 9.6 to 1 with that same cam, slightly worse quench with 91, it was finicky. I needed very cold plugs and very conservative timing.
#6
That 2.56 gear is the issue, you want high cam duration or very high stall converter will be needed. I have 2.78 gears for now but will be moving tob 3.90 with a 2004R OD. I am going with the Mahle 4.100" 10cc dish pistons. With my #6 heads that measured 62 to 64-65cc. I am polishing one heads chambers, since it was cut twice due to a nick during transport by the original owner of these heads. Even with both heads at 65cc, I will be right around 9.6 to 1. Mark Remmel (Cutlassefi) had a 218/218 roller cam that should work with my build. It will be tuned with a wideband and the timing curve dialed in. Can you get the 6cc dish Speedpro forged pistons if it is already bored and honed? You would have to see the Mahle pistons availability if it isn't finished honed. What octane do you have locally? Also upgrade your torque converter, the factory 1600 stall will make your car a dog, I have been down that road. You want something that is 2000+ stall. The Jegs 2300 stall is an affordable, decent replacement. Good luck.
#7
Fix the gear first. I like using the back to front philosophy. Start with the running gear and then move to the engine. Change the rear axle, then a shift kit or something else that can help manage the power, then a converter, then exhaust such as long tubes, then intake, roller rockers, camshaft, and finally, heads. Cam won't do a lot of good if the air can't get in or out.
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