yeahbuddy

Looking to replace my radiator in my 68 Cutlass Supreme. 350/4 barrel/w A/C (not hooked up)

RockAuto is suggesting Spectra Platinum CU165 4 row. Its running about $200 shipped on amazon

Other option looks like Champion radiators or Classic from ebay. Not sure on how those fit but a 3 row is running around $250.

Trying to keep this on a budget and the CU165 is looking good...havent found any reviews on it?

Rickman48

4-rows have different mounting pads - go with whatever's in there now.

yeahbuddy

Not sure what is in there? RockAuto suggests this http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=271646 under the year/model/engine

allyolds68

Here's what I have:

1994-1995 Chevy P30 van 4.3L V6 radiator. It is a direct drop-in in place of an A-body 3-core radiator. The upper radiator hose you need is for an '81-'88 Cutlass coupe with a 307.

My 455 with a 6 blade clutch fan and a shroud never goes over 180. The radiator is a single core and it works as well as a four core. I did a lot of research & didn't believe it either. I idled the car in traffic in 100 degree heat this summer and never had a problem. I paid less than $150 for it 4 or 5 years ago

yeahbuddy

Is that my only options for a direct swap? Looking for something as close as possible to OEM.

455man

1968 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme / Cutlass All Aluminum Radiator



http://www.genesisautoparts.com/all_...tlass-1968.htm

yeahbuddy

Price is right. $149 for a 3 row direct fit all aluminum? Have you dealt with them or know anyone who has shoved over of these into a 68 Cutlass?

455man

I have not dealt with them. I'm thinking about getting one for my 72 Cutlass. I liked the price also. I think I got the link off Classicoldsmobile somewhere...

yeahbuddy

Alright guys. Since I made this post I went ahead and lined up my options. After doing some research and price comparing, I came to the decision that my best option is the American Eagle 2 row w/ 1" tubing. These are the same Chinese made radiators you see all over eBay under the name Champion. I guess their 2 row is rebranded to American Eagle. I came to the realization that replacing my stock 3 row with 3/8" tubing with a 2 row 1" tubing is more efficient.

I did some eBay hunting and ordered the AE161 rad for $163 shipped. The radiator is GM universal so I find a lot of sellers list the same model but change the pricing based on the car they are listing it for. Keep your eyes peeled for this scam. I am located in California and the Champion/American Eagle distribution warehouse is in Lake Elsinore, CA. It took one day to arrive!

Package arrived and I opened it up. At first glance, I'll be honest I was hoping I got "one of the good ones". With Chinese made products its always hit or miss. The welds looked alright, the fins had some bends. There was a hand written inspection card that was in Chinese. So that made me feel a little better.

Next morning I went ahead and took on the challenge. Let me just say, I am no mechanic. I have basic mechanic skills but most of the time I take my car to my local shop. I decided to attempt to replace the rad myself as it seemed easy enough. With luck on my side it all went smooth and it fit with no issues! My overflow tank had some disgusting sludge and dirt once drained. I went ahead and bought a new overflow tank and replaced it aswell. The radiator sat about 1-2" higher than the old radiator but I was able bent the top plate a tad bit and it all went in fine. Didn't have any issues removing the trans cooler lines(Sprayed then down with PB Blaster an hour prior), didn't have to adjust the brackets. 3 hours later I took it for a test drive. The car runs 10 degrees cooler than it did before! It was a bit chili out so I didnt get the full feel but I ran it for about 20 minutes and it would instantly drop back down to 190 when I released the throttle. Running a 180 thermostat.

Here are some pictures. I wanted to put this review up because I didnt find anything on these radiators when I was shopping around. I did it on a gamble and it worked out. Definitely a cheap replacement for a budget. Will keep you guys posted in the future on how it holds up!

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Rickman48

Don't know what fuel you're running or where the timings set, but usually, if the temp's increasing during acceleration, you're into a lean condition, which isn't good!
If temps don't change with the next grade of fuel, either run that or back-off the timing!
Burnt pistons and/or valves could be expensive!

yeahbuddy

Maybe that came off wrong. Before I replaced the rad I was running a 160* thermostat and it would stay at around 190-195* during most conditions and raise to around 200-205* when idling for a long time or when it is 90 degrees out. I just got a new Edelbrock carb and intake put in and had the thermostat changed at the same time. Made a mistake and got a 180* this time around. Anyway, with the new card and intake with the 180 thermostat I was running around 200* and would go to 210* if I punched it..then eventually make its way back down to 200*. When I did that 20 minute test drive it was idling at a 190* and would go to 195-198* when I punched it then come back down to 190 stay there while driving with a light foot. I've never had the car go over 210. I run 91 octane Shell.

Rickman48

If you're at the factory timing with a 10:25 compression ratio, you're real close to 'ping', which also shows up as a heat problem!!
Throw a can of octane booster in there, and I bet it goes away!

yeahbuddy

This is my car warming up early morning around 60-65 degrees out if you wanna check it out. Recorded it a week or two ago. Once I tap the pedal and it idles at a lower rpm.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QYkKCvuXTYI

yeahbuddy

I drove to work this morning about 15 miles. Once my thermostat opened at 200* on the temp gauge it dropped down to 190* and stayed there warm up and during idle. But when I could go up hill or press on the gas more than half way it would slowly raise back up to 200 and then drop down to 190. Everytime I release the gas it goes back down to 190 but when I accelerate lightly it will go to and stay around 195. When I give it more gas it shoots up to 200 but then drops back to 190 then work its back back to 200 and back down to 190. Almost as if there is a pocket of hot water? My heater core is not hooked up it is bypassed.

Can anyone help me out there? What is going on?

Rickman48

The reason I mentioned the timing/octane thing is that I tune my DD's by ear!
My '90 suburban 350 was last timed when mid-range was cheap, so now I mix it.
If I use straight regular, there's very light pinging, and the engine runs 10-20 degrees warmer!
Works for me!

yeahbuddy

Rick, reading all of this has now made me nervous. I recorded a video of the fluctuation I am talking about. It isnt dramatic until it reaches around 40-50mph then it shoots up to 205 and drops back down automatically to 190 as if the thermostat reopened. The tstat is only 2-3weeks ago and has been working fine. Top and bottom hoses are brand new. Radiator cap is 16PSI brand new. I have no idea what is going on here? Can you please view this video and let me know your thoughts. The first gauge is my temp. You can see it move as I drive in stop and go traffic.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0pO3HUbxEk

From 1:00 - 1:17 you can get the best idea of what I am talking about. You can see the temp raise as I accelerate more and it drop as soon and I left go and start to brake. If I keep my foot on the gas it drops by itself the same way once it gets to around 205-210. Stays steady at 190 at idle.

Rickman48

Since the only thing original is the sender - get a new one!
If that doesn't do it, get an american made thermostat - chinesium might have a weak spring!!
Are you using the stock clutch fan? With a shroud?
May have a worn-out clutch, too!
Grab the lower hose and squeeze it - no spring in the later hoses, and they do collapse!!!!!!! Bet that's it!!!

yeahbuddy

The thermostat is Mr. Gasket High Performance 180*. Maybe 2-3 weeks old. The fan clutch is new I replaced it about 7 months ago and it turns on in the mornings so I know it is working. The fan shroud is installed but missing to clips on the left side. It is in position though. The lower hose is a flex hose with spring that was install 2-3 weeks ago as well.

This only started happening after I installed the new rad on Sunday.

yeahbuddy

I swapped out the fan clutch about 8 months ago when my original failed. My local auto parts store had two options. Standard duty and heavy duty...I bought the heavy duty and it didnt fit so I exchanged it for the standard duty. Looking up the part now it looks like it was made for the v6 model. Could this be part of my problem? It does indeed work. Maybe not strong enough?

yeahbuddy

I drove the car home after work and took it to about 70mph. At low speeds and idle the temp stays at 190. At higher speeds the temp gauge goes to 205 then automatically resets back to 190. It does it over and over until I lay off the pedal. Looks like the tstat is opening and closing. I'm running a 180*tstat tstat.