350 rocket making me crazy !

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Old Oct 30, 2023 | 08:23 PM
  #121  
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Original 1971 cam, new lifters
Old Oct 31, 2023 | 04:50 AM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by Fonz
no, the Lifters were replaced a Year Ago. Engine ran well After the lifter replacement. The car has not seen 10 miles since. (only running time in the shop) It was (cam/ lifters(orig STOCK 260hp Cam) Broken In, (with zinc additive) also about a year ago. This doesn't sound like a vehicle that ran well after the liters where changed. It sounds like a car that never ran for any period of time and now the new lifters may have failed.
The Car sits under moving quilts 95% of the time. I .took it out to see if I could get it to run right so I can actually DRIVE IT. is it "Possible" the Zinc additive made anything "STICK ?? I'm going to change the OIL back to 10-30 Mobil 1. (SHOULD I put the zinc additive into the fresh Mobil 1 ??) Valvoline VR1 10W30 is a conventional engine oil with a zinc additive package. Recommended for older engines with flat tappet valve trains.
now noticed the vacuum advance" Unit" is not" "Solidly" fastened to the distributor housing. ( At this point, the advance unit is not Hooked to a Vacuum source
Thinking the unit requires tapered head screws, not flat on the bottom Why? What style of screw is on now? If I can remember from forty years ago the screws were flat head. However as you have the unit in front of you only you can tell.
could the loose adv unit , be causing any of this ? It would cause the breaker plate to be loose. Ignition point dwell and ignition timing can fluctuate and result in poor engine performance.
going to the hardware store to get tapered head screws for it.) Grasping at straws. I Know it is going to end up being something Small.
​​​​​​​
Why were the lifters changed in the first place? What do the bottom of the old lifters look like? Worn through/concave?
Old Oct 31, 2023 | 11:08 AM
  #123  
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about a year ago, I tried a very mild RV Cam. . even with Zinc break in oil, proper break in, I lost a lobe in about the first 2 hours. Removed the cam and lifters, flushed the oil system with fresh 5-30 oil.(Pumped it through the system with an attachment on a drill), drained that oil, & changed the filter. installed 10-30 mobil 1 w/ zinc. . I put the "ORIGINAL" CAM that the car came from the factory back in with New Lifters. ran fine after that, then parked it again.
Old Oct 31, 2023 | 03:32 PM
  #124  
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Did you have any issues during the break in of the new lifters with the old cam? Did it run fine during the entire break in?

Do you have the ability to take a video or have someone else take a video of how it is behaving? You could post it here, and it might help.

Again, good luck!
Old Nov 1, 2023 | 10:59 AM
  #125  
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no problem with the Old cam during break in, no lifter clacking now., no rounded lobes. " getting someone to video it with sound ?? Personally never done it but IF I CAN, I WILL. Good Idea
Old Nov 1, 2023 | 11:07 AM
  #126  
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We questioning the lifters and cam based on the noise you are describing.
How did you do with the loose vacuum advance unit?
Old Nov 4, 2023 | 02:44 PM
  #127  
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HAVE NOT YET ADDRESSED THE VAC ADVANCE. now that I know it is NOT the Carb, ( I took the carb off my perfect running sunbeam 302 and it's the same problem.) I'm going to re-install the HEI. ( It's brand new, so......). I used an ohm meter and "checked the plug wires" , also NEW, the plugs in it right now are white like new, (they are new. )
Old Jun 3, 2024 | 04:55 PM
  #128  
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This car is making me crazy (Crazier) ! (got the engine to start right up, idle nice, no noises, when the engine is cold. i can rev it, wonderful, right ?? NOPE ! when it runs for 2-3 minutes and "Warms Up" goes back to doing the same missing progressively getting worse ! then shuts down. The New HEI is installed with a New "stock" vacuum advance unit.(non adjustable) new carb ( that runs nice on my other engines), new plugs and wires, timed at 12 degrees (vac advance disconnected.) and mech advance works fine. Vac advance hose going to "Ported vacuum" on carb. Tried hooking 12 volts directly from battery( to rule out ign switch) (165 psi all cyl). Olds has non adj valve train, sooo. I tried disconnecting ALL vac hoses from the engine to rule that out, sprayed carb cleaner to rule out Vac leaking Under carb. Valve timing correct ( dots aligned on crank and cam gears). It's the intermittent part thats getting me. HOW can it run perfect , and then just decide to run like crap 3 min later !? WHAT AM i MISSING ??? I'M GOING TO FEEL LIKE A FOOL AFTER IT'S FINALLY STRAIGHTENED OUT. Thanks for bearing with me.
Old Jun 3, 2024 | 05:31 PM
  #129  
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just to check if fuel sock is not plugged, run a hose from fuel pump intake into can of gas, see if it makes a difference. been there done that I feel your pain.. I treid rebuilding my quadrajet, finally sent it to Sparky ran like new afterwards..


Fred
Old Jun 3, 2024 | 08:59 PM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by FStanley
just to check if fuel sock is not plugged, run a hose from fuel pump intake into can of gas, see if it makes a difference. been there done that I feel your pain.. I treid rebuilding my quadrajet, finally sent it to Sparky ran like new afterwards..


Fred
This car is making me crazy (Crazier) ! (got the engine to start right up, idle nice, no noises, when the engine is cold. i can rev it, wonderful, right ?? NOPE ! when it runs for 2-3 minutes and "Warms Up" goes back to doing the same missing progressively getting worse ! then shuts down. The New HEI is installed with a New "stock" vacuum advance unit.(non adjustable) new carb ( that runs nice on my other engines), new plugs and wires, timed at 12 degrees (vac advance disconnected.) and mech advance works fine. Vac advance hose going to "Ported vacuum" on carb. Tried hooking 12 volts directly from battery( to rule out ign switch) (165 psi all cyl). Olds has non adj valve train, sooo. I tried disconnecting ALL vac hoses from the engine to rule that out, sprayed carb cleaner to rule out Vac leaking Under carb. Valve timing correct ( dots aligned on crank and cam gears). It's the intermittent part thats getting me. HOW can it run perfect , and then just decide to run like crap 3 min later !? WHAT AM i MISSING ??? I'M GOING TO FEEL LIKE A FOOL AFTER IT'S FINALLY STRAIGHTENED OUT. Thanks for bearing with me.


*****Dist is NOT going back and forth like "the springs are loose". THE TANK HAS BEEN REMOVED, CLEANED AND NEW FUEL SENDER AND SOCK. ALL HOSES BLOWN OUT. New fuel pump, 5 psi pressure at all times. Dist NOT 180 off. The timing is set to decal specs (12 degrees), It will start and run good sometimes COLD, and start missing like crazy after a coupe of min. * I do Not "reset" anything, and it will go from running good to missing until it dies without me changing ANYTHING.* in the past 50 years I have "built" at least 30 cars and I have NEVER had a car give me grief like this one ! If it was not a 1 owner #s matching car, I'd put a chevy in it ! LOL
Old Jun 7, 2024 | 02:34 PM
  #131  
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turned out it WAS (correct) the timing mark on balancer

Last edited by Fonz; Jun 7, 2024 at 02:37 PM. Reason: better answer
Old Jun 7, 2024 | 04:29 PM
  #132  
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" You still operating w/ the TVS switch & solenoid or has it been deleted?" DELETED
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