The only other things that get in there are pieces of valve guide seals. There are no other plastic wear pars other than the timing gear. Now another theory is... your timing set may have been changed once before with another nylon coated one and the pan was never dropped to clean the pickup.

 

Ok as i put those pieces together it turned out you guys were right....its a circle of teeth....My apologies and thank all of you who took the time out to give advice...Much appreciated

Oldsmobile Strong

 

One more question....Is cork a good way to go for a new oil pan gasket.....The last gasket was rubber i think dry rotted and brittle...

 

Cork or rubber work fine, just make sure both surfaces are clean and oil free. I like to use a thin coat of weatherstrp adhesive applied to the gasket and the pan. Let it skim over and then glue them together.

 

The "diesel" pan gaskets are the best - they've got a steel core so they won't squeeze out.

I forget the number, but it's listed in the thread about gaskets.

- Eric

 

Ok

 

The oil pan gasket FelPro number is OS30471C.

- Eric

 

I thhink its time we cross that bridge just talked to a buddy of mine...His corvette had the same thing in his oil pan.....He pulled the heads and seen slight damage done....So now i really wanna take a peek inside just to see if things are good......he also had a 350 70s if not mistaken

 

Last time I bought a diesel op gasket I found after installing it that the motor mount could not be installed because the op gasket stuck out into its space. Other than that it was a great experience. Robust gasket. You may wish to trim excess before slathering sealer.

 

I didn't have any trouble when I did it, but you should be able to hold up the motor mounts in position and see if there's any interference - if so, easy enough to nip with nippers and bend down.

- Eric

 

Ok anybody have advice on head gaskets that i can get witout having to mill the heads...

 

Just pulled the heads off my 69 olds 350.....Pistons look like lots of oil was getting in there the walls are clean no scrapes or anything.....But the tops of the pistons has lots of sludge or burnt build up on them.......any suggestions on to go from here are nice.

 

Unfortunately, Smitty is the guy who was selling the .011" thick shim head gaskets and not many would buy anything from him these days. I think Rocket Racing has the .028" thick composite head gaskets in stock once again.

 

Ok here are pics of the block and pistons since i might as well do a rebuild for compression....

 

Third pic second piston is the only one without debris on it..

 

I merged some of your threads. Lets try and keep all your questions in one thread to keep from having to go back and forth and duplicate answers and info.

 

Alrite.....should i go for a rebuild or is this normal wear...

 

You brought up you want to get to 380HP. You also stated due to lack of time and room you need to farm it out. If you have the money to invest, now is a good time to get in touch with a reputable builder and discuss your options and budget. I'm sure there is wear in the bottom end just due to age and mileage. In addition the heads probably ought to be sent out for a valve job. The engine itself looks fine from the pictures and probably a good foundation for what your after. I will add that 380HP won't come cheap, so be prepared.

 

Alrite thats where i stand thanks eric youeen there from the jump as well as other......

Oldsmobile Strong

 

Is there any markings on the pistons? Those almost look like deep dish, low compression replacements. Everything looks normal, I would pull a main cap to check bearing wear.

 

Those pistons and heads look completely normal.

The clean one could conceivably have a slight head gasket leak, because when they're so clean, it usually means that water is getting in.
What was the compression on that cylinder?

Those are stock low compression pistons.

- Eric

 

No markings that i know of will check and let you know...No compression check done.....I was told ebrock heads would be nice and stead having head work done????

 

They would drop the compression quite a bit because they are designed for big blocks. They would also force the use of an electric fuel pump due to clearance issues.

 

Thats kinda what i was thinking...might as well rebuild for high compression...
Anybody of pistons rings seal etc for a complete rebuild looking to get good hp out of it...

 

Anybody know where i can get a set of decent pistons and rings....

 

Jmo here, I think you would be better off taking it to a machine shop first.. Anything you buy now may not work once the machine work is done.

 

If the Probe 350 pistons are available, get a set with rings. Otherwise BTR Performance carries CP pistons with rings for $650. The CP are 4.065", so with .005" clearance, it needs to clean up at 4.070" with a hone. Or go with heavy Speed Pro forged or 400 sbc pistons and rods, which will be light and strong.

 

Anybody know a good mache shop in Minnesota????? First choice the guy has way to many bad reveiws....

 

"might as well"

You realize that is like a $3000-4000 phrase here, right?

You realize that you CAN opt to just put it back together, with any head gaskets, and live with the power and compression you have?

Or, buy a motor out of a project/ parts car
I had my all-redone High Compression 403 with #6 heads up for sale for $1200 a while back. Drop in and go, or perhaps bump to larger intake valves first.

If you have $4k handy, discuss build options and prices with your local engine guy.

 

If you like your hobby price should not matter and thats no time soon....But i love my olds and wouldnt mind a price on somethings....