350 olds
#1
350 olds
I've been looking online about the olds 350, lots of people are saying they are not worth it. Cost too much bla bla bla. Well chevy 350's are a dime a dozen yet an olds 350 rocket are hard to come by. To me I prefer the olds over the chevy. My question is when I rebuild the olds 350(400 HP) is there any difference than a 400 hp chevy,so which is better?
#4
If you want that level of power you would be better off going with a 455.
One its easier to get more power out of a larger engine.
Two if you plan on driving it on the street. A 350 built at that level is going to require more gear, stall conv., and not going to the very street friendly.
If you want to go with a 350 Olds. Building a nice engine with plenty of torque is what you want to do. If you want to run pump gas 9.5 to 1 compression is all you need. You don't need more then 10 to 1.
The reason people a lot of people use the Chevy is because you can buy it already to go and drop it in.
One its easier to get more power out of a larger engine.
Two if you plan on driving it on the street. A 350 built at that level is going to require more gear, stall conv., and not going to the very street friendly.
If you want to go with a 350 Olds. Building a nice engine with plenty of torque is what you want to do. If you want to run pump gas 9.5 to 1 compression is all you need. You don't need more then 10 to 1.
The reason people a lot of people use the Chevy is because you can buy it already to go and drop it in.
#6
It's really a function of math. A larger engine has more rotating mass, this usually limits the maximum safe rpm attainable compared to a smaller engine. However, a larger engine (in our case a BBO) generates more torque and that torque is apparent at a lower rpm. Horsepower is a function of torque multiplied by time, so if either is greater you have more horsepower. Big blocks generate more torque over a flatter curve that starts earlier and ends earlier (rotating mass) than the small block. But the small block will spin higher. Of course, with enough money any one of those two variables can be overcome. With the same amount of money to spend it is just easier to get more horsepower out of a BBO. There are people that like big blocks, and people that like small blocks and they all have their reasons. You could be in either camp and be right...........................as long as it's an Oldsmobile .
#8
I have a mild '74 350 in my '42 Chevy and it is pretty fast as is. I took one of my old car buddies for a ride a couple years ago and he was amazed at how quick my car is. He actually said I thought Olds motors were slow but this thing really gets it on. I also have a Chevy 350 gathering dust while I am saving to swap out my Olds 350 with a 455 I am going to build for it.
#9
The Olds 350 has a larger bore and smaller stroke than the Chevy 350, which should make it a BETTER performance motor. The biggest problem with Olds motors is the heads. Unlike Chevy motors, aftermarket Olds heads are limited in selection.
#10
lots of people on the internet are clueless idiots...
The olds 350 has a larger bore and smaller stroke than the chevy 350, which should make it a better performance motor. The biggest problem with olds motors is the heads. Unlike chevy motors, aftermarket olds heads are limited in selection.
The olds 350 has a larger bore and smaller stroke than the chevy 350, which should make it a better performance motor. The biggest problem with olds motors is the heads. Unlike chevy motors, aftermarket olds heads are limited in selection.
#12
The 350 Olds engines are probably the easiest to find. Finding a 1972 or earlier, with better heads is a little more challenging. If you are willing to run a mix of racing fuel you can bump up the compression to 12:1 and make 400 HP fairly easy. As stated before the heads are a limiting factor. You should do some research on aftermarket heads or at least consider porting the cast iron ones. You should keep the rotating assembly as light as possible and deffinitely have it balanced if your gonna spin it past 6000 RPM. The best advice I can give you is talk to a reputable OLDS engine builder.
#13
Oldsmobile engines are better than Chevy engines because Oldsmobile engines are made out of iron and Chevy engines are made out of congealed toothpaste. That is why Chevy engines need 16 bolt mains to stay together.
#15
I've been looking online about the olds 350, lots of people are saying they are not worth it. Cost too much bla bla bla. Well chevy 350's are a dime a dozen yet an olds 350 rocket are hard to come by. To me I prefer the olds over the chevy. My question is when I rebuild the olds 350(400 HP) is there any difference than a 400 hp chevy,so which is better?
Do not get hung up over a "number". Everyone says they make 400, 500, blah blah blah. 300 would scare them.
It takes 360 or so HP at the rear wheels with gears, and a 3500 converter, to run in the upper 11's. Most cars are not very streetable at that power level, unless they are on nitrous. Chevy, or not.
What do you want it to run-
How much can you afford?
Do you have another car to drive to work?
Jim
Last edited by Warhead; June 16th, 2010 at 11:42 AM.
#16
The 350 Olds engines are probably the easiest to find. Finding a 1972 or earlier, with better heads is a little more challenging. If you are willing to run a mix of racing fuel you can bump up the compression to 12:1 and make 400 HP fairly easy. As stated before the heads are a limiting factor. You should do some research on aftermarket heads or at least consider porting the cast iron ones. You should keep the rotating assembly as light as possible and deffinitely have it balanced if your gonna spin it past 6000 RPM. The best advice I can give you is talk to a reputable OLDS engine builder.
I agree with Warhead and 80 Cutlass on most everything. Get a plan and budget and go from there. That might dictate alot.
#17
I was talking to performance shop about the olds engine to him what I wanted to get out of the 350, said about 6 G's what I was figuring it would cost. Doesn't sound like a problem to get that much power either
#18
X2 on what 80_Cutlass said.
Do not get hung up over a "number". Everyone says they make 400, 500, blah blah blah. 300 would scare them.
It takes 360 or so HP at the rear wheels with gears, and a 3500 converter, to run in the upper 11's. Most cars are not very streetable at that power level, unless they are on nitrous. Chevy, or not.
What do you want it to run-
How much can you afford?
Do you have another car to drive to work?
Jim
Do not get hung up over a "number". Everyone says they make 400, 500, blah blah blah. 300 would scare them.
It takes 360 or so HP at the rear wheels with gears, and a 3500 converter, to run in the upper 11's. Most cars are not very streetable at that power level, unless they are on nitrous. Chevy, or not.
What do you want it to run-
How much can you afford?
Do you have another car to drive to work?
Jim
#22
What transmission and rear end is in it. These have a lot to do with giving it some kick. Seems to me for 6 grand the engine could be overhauled ported blueprinted have a new roller top end installed and a nos unit. A good posi unit with better gears would increase off the line kick.
#24
What transmission and rear end is in it. These have a lot to do with giving it some kick. Seems to me for 6 grand the engine could be overhauled ported blueprinted have a new roller top end installed and a nos unit. A good posi unit with better gears would increase off the line kick.
#26
For primarily a street runner without an overdrive transmission(Turbo 350), I would go for a 3.23-3.55 gear. Any more than that will kill your mileage, and cause the engine to run more rpm than you want at 60+miles per hour.
If you have an overdrive 2004R transmission, I would shoot for a 3.73-4.33 gear.
I would do the gear modifications before the engine swap, just to see what the improvement will be without anything else. You WILL be happy with the shot in the arm this will give.
Tuning will find far more power than you could believe.
You should be able to make that power number for a little more than half that cash wad.
$4500 max, with the gears, and posi installed.
JMO
Jim
If you have an overdrive 2004R transmission, I would shoot for a 3.73-4.33 gear.
I would do the gear modifications before the engine swap, just to see what the improvement will be without anything else. You WILL be happy with the shot in the arm this will give.
Tuning will find far more power than you could believe.
You should be able to make that power number for a little more than half that cash wad.
$4500 max, with the gears, and posi installed.
JMO
Jim
Last edited by Warhead; June 19th, 2010 at 02:21 PM.
#27
I guess Warhead and some others have beaten me to what I was alluding to in my original response about the $$$$.
Right off the bat I would ditch the edelbrock heads. There are better options if you just want to throw a wad of cash at heads for the small block in any case.
sb
Right off the bat I would ditch the edelbrock heads. There are better options if you just want to throw a wad of cash at heads for the small block in any case.
sb
#28
If you want that level of power you would be better off going with a 455.
One its easier to get more power out of a larger engine.
Two if you plan on driving it on the street. A 350 built at that level is going to require more gear, stall conv., and not going to the very street friendly.
If you want to go with a 350 Olds. Building a nice engine with plenty of torque is what you want to do. If you want to run pump gas 9.5 to 1 compression is all you need. You don't need more then 10 to 1.
The reason people a lot of people use the Chevy is because you can buy it already to go and drop it in.
One its easier to get more power out of a larger engine.
Two if you plan on driving it on the street. A 350 built at that level is going to require more gear, stall conv., and not going to the very street friendly.
If you want to go with a 350 Olds. Building a nice engine with plenty of torque is what you want to do. If you want to run pump gas 9.5 to 1 compression is all you need. You don't need more then 10 to 1.
The reason people a lot of people use the Chevy is because you can buy it already to go and drop it in.
#29
I guess Warhead and some others have beaten me to what I was alluding to in my original response about the $$$$.
Right off the bat I would ditch the edelbrock heads. There are better options if you just want to throw a wad of cash at heads for the small block in any case.
sb
Right off the bat I would ditch the edelbrock heads. There are better options if you just want to throw a wad of cash at heads for the small block in any case.
sb
#30
I am finding this all very interesting as I am wondering what to do with a motor. I have a very rare w-31 alum intake and the #6 1970 heads that many talk about. Bought 35 years ago and just hung onto them hoping to build an engine some day. Do I get a mid 70's 350 block and put them on it or a 403 or sell them and take the money and buy a 455?
#31
I am finding this all very interesting as I am wondering what to do with a motor. I have a very rare w-31 alum intake and the #6 1970 heads that many talk about. Bought 35 years ago and just hung onto them hoping to build an engine some day. Do I get a mid 70's 350 block and put them on it or a 403 or sell them and take the money and buy a 455?
#32
I've got a 72 350 rocket for sale if anyone is interested $200. This includes block, heads, alll pulleys, water pump, and a set of Edelbrock valve covers. Iv also got a set of 350 hoker heads for $100. No rust holes, just needs blasted and painted. Pm if you need pics
#33
If I had 6 grand I would do the edelbrock head build that you mentioned. the heads would need the right amount milled to get the compression needed.
I think you would have more power than you might expect and would run pump gas.
Just my opinion
Also I have 1400 in my #5 heads , Sometimes I wish I would have just put that money towards a set of edelbrocks.
#34
there you go, sounds like a good deal.
If I had 6 grand I would do the edelbrock head build that you mentioned. the heads would need the right amount milled to get the compression needed.
I think you would have more power than you might expect and would run pump gas.
Just my opinion
Also I have 1400 in my #5 heads , Sometimes I wish I would have just put that money towards a set of edelbrocks.
If I had 6 grand I would do the edelbrock head build that you mentioned. the heads would need the right amount milled to get the compression needed.
I think you would have more power than you might expect and would run pump gas.
Just my opinion
Also I have 1400 in my #5 heads , Sometimes I wish I would have just put that money towards a set of edelbrocks.
#37
So, to use the E-brocks on a small block, I would have to use a proprietary intake, mill for combustion chamber size, and use an electric fuel pump.
No thanks, at least not for a build that can be accomplished with iron heads for less than the $$$ you guys have into your iron heads.
I still say save the ~$1200 bucks, put it toward your heads or some 6s or 5s or 7s and have money left over for upgrading the rear end.
sb
No thanks, at least not for a build that can be accomplished with iron heads for less than the $$$ you guys have into your iron heads.
I still say save the ~$1200 bucks, put it toward your heads or some 6s or 5s or 7s and have money left over for upgrading the rear end.
sb
#39
The 350 Olds is the only engine I couldn't kill in my young/dumb years and I went through a lot of cars. I had a 68 Cutlass conv that I beat for about ten years and was still running when I sold it, I'd probably still have it if the body hadn't rusted to the ground.
#40
Another silly question I have, lets say we have to 350's we build.Lets say for ****'s and giggle's we put the CR 10 to 1 on both engines. One engine we put #5 heads which is a 64cc chamber. On the other one we put #8 heads which have a 79 chamber. Port and polish and put the same size of valves in them. So my question is would there be a difference in performance between both engines