350 Diesel Block

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old December 2nd, 2009, 05:43 AM
  #1  
Olds + Mopar = Happiness
Thread Starter
 
Gearhead442's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Iowa City, Iowa
Posts: 126
350 Diesel Block

Hey i have a 1983 350 diesel block laying around in the shed. I heard you can get 454 cubes out of one stroking the engine. Could you please give me a HP and Trq estimate of what i could get out of one and if its worth doing?
Gearhead442 is offline  
Old December 2nd, 2009, 05:52 AM
  #2  
Moderator
 
Olds64's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Edmond, OK
Posts: 16,467
I've also heard that you can machine a 350 DX block to get monster cubes; however, I doubt it would be worth it. The price would be exorbiant. You would be better off buying a 425 or 455 and dropping it into your project. It would be easier and cheaper in the long run.
Olds64 is offline  
Old December 2nd, 2009, 06:20 AM
  #3  
Registered User
 
Run to Rund's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,883
The diesel block has thicker cylinder walls and a lot more beef around the crank. For extreme racing, it is great, but expensive to get the benefits. The crank has to be custom machined from a forged 425 crank with the counterweights cut down, etc. to use the 3" mains on an otherwise small block crank setup. The beef makes it possible but still expensive to install custom 4 bolt main caps. Overall, for a mild buildup, or even 500 HP, just go with a conventional 350, 425, or 455.
Run to Rund is offline  
Old December 2nd, 2009, 06:55 AM
  #4  
Registered User
 
bccan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: West Hartford, CT
Posts: 1,497
I think for the most part to get that far you are looking at a bore around 4.2"+. Generally means cyl walls are gonna start getting thin which can negatively affect the bore integrity and therefore ring seal. At this bore I think you are frequently going to want a filled block to help stabilize everything - fine for the track, not street friendly as you are filling water jackets w/epoxy instead of coolant. Sonic test would reveal thickness & uniformity of walls & judgement could be used from there.

I don't know how much stroke you can gain from offset grinding a 425 crank but 4" is easy and I believe more is possible. I'm building one now that will be 4" stroke x 4.155" bore for 434 ci. This seems to be a pretty common combo.

There is a lot to consider on a stroker build and general wisdom says that unless you are married to a small block, build a big block if it is displacement you're after. Considerably cheaper. I however have married the small block & am headed that way. I am finding that DX doesn't necessarily have to be a money pit & some of the extra machine work gets offset by using off the shelf Chevy/Ford internals & dimensions. Crank work & balancing are 2 main areas where extra $$ needs to be spent over what a "normal" build would cost. Rods, pistons etc must be carefully thought out or ideally go to a custom piston. I think I'll be pushing $5k for the short block on a conservative build - $2k in parts, $3k in machine work while reusing what I can from present engine(hyd roller cam/lifters, timing cover, etc). If my cam is too small, there goes another $500. Cam will be the last thing considered.

Power handling is largely limited by your combo & bank account - how much do you want to spend on strengthening, light recip assy, compression, etc. Power is in the heads, cam and often power adder. Power adders seem to be the best application for these as in turbo/supercharging or huge nitrous because blocks are quite strong. There are people making tremendous HP, say 700 & up w/reliability at the upper ends of the Olds racing world and many of them are not necessarily big displacement. I think general wisdom says that Olds cranks are only going to hold up to 600-700 hp range so a properly prepared block can take you well beyond what factory parts can. Don't know how much it costs to start getting into those ranges and never will!

Last edited by bccan; December 2nd, 2009 at 07:31 AM.
bccan is online now  
Old December 2nd, 2009, 09:16 AM
  #5  
Registered User
 
Destructor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Braintree, Mass
Posts: 729
Build it as a deisel, pull in front of hybrids and stink those F's out.
Destructor is offline  
Old December 2nd, 2009, 04:11 PM
  #6  
Registered User
 
380 Racer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Iowa
Posts: 1,130
Why mess with a D/DX if you aren't going to race it? It takes many $$$$$$ to make anything handle 6-700 HP reliably for too long. I would never take a 40+ yr old crank, whittle on it and expect it to take alot of abuse.
Dropping in a BB is not a fix all answer. I chose a SB over a BB for many reasons. Oiling is not a worry in a SB, main cap walking & crank flexing don't pose many problems either with the SB. Plus more.

By the way my 70 Supreme (3300 lbs) with it's 425 SB ran a 9.68 the last day of the season. But to each his own.
380 Racer is offline  
Old December 5th, 2009, 09:25 AM
  #7  
Registered User
 
KRICHEN922's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Burlington, Wisconsin
Posts: 178
Block...that comes with a dieslel engine? I have decided to buy a new engine instead of fixing up mine. My mechanic friend said it would be like doing open heart surgery upsidown and without a scalpel.... so if you got the engine I'll buy it...
KRICHEN922 is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
brownbomber77
Parts For Sale
11
March 21st, 2017 12:46 PM
young olds
Racing and High Performance
7
April 5th, 2014 09:46 AM
swansmaa
Small Blocks
9
February 15th, 2013 03:42 PM
a69
Small Blocks
5
June 11th, 2012 12:09 AM
calgarycutty
General Discussion
2
December 14th, 2009 07:47 AM



Quick Reply: 350 Diesel Block



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 06:06 AM.