Howdy guys,

Well I am going over the motor in my 66 Holiday Coupe to fire it up and make sure it will run and here is what I got.

I know I can test fire it with out any belts on to crank pulley so this is not a complete non firing issue but when I took the lower water hose off a BUNCH of rusty/crusty **** came out of the hose. Uh oh right? Well I decided to put a socket and breaker bar on the crank and make sure it was not ceased. It wasn't but,,,,the water pump didn't budge a millimeter. So, I took off the old original clutch fan off and low and behold,,,the water pump IS ceased..dead *** ceased.
I guess I am in for a water pump change huh. Oh BTW, that is the original pump too.

Suggestions...I plan to flush the block and also back flush the system from the heater core imput with real real low water pressure. I have done this on later model cars but not this old of a car. My question is, is there are technique and or product I can use to help flush all that obviously rusty **** out of the cooling system or am I kinda screwed in doing much help here, other than a simple flush and dealing with it AS IS?....oh and making sure water will at least flow. In 1998 when I barned it, it all worked decent enough to drive the car around a few hundred miles and this was after it had sat for 7 years before that. Anyway, it will be an uphill battle I know.


Thanks,

 

Pick up some of this and flush n fill kit.

 

During the process take out the block plugs above the motor mounts. Cascade dishwasher soap or muriatic acid if it's really rusty, if you use acid leave the block plugs in.

 

That all sounds great but....I didn't know there were "block plugs". Any susggestion on a ratio of acid/water and a procedure maybe?

Thanks Eric and other guy

 

Hey fellas,

I have been searching the board

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...step-step.html

but I am not finding that I am needing. My water pump is the closed impeller pump. It's rusted shut and today I took that pump off....after working the pump loose and off the timing cover is loose on the top. Loose enough to pull it away from the motor 1/4 or so. The question is....is the timing cover gasket toast now or when I bolt the pump back up will the torgue seal it back okay. Hell I have never changed an Olds water pump so I am not 100% sure.

The pump,
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=949092

I didnt find a tutorial for this procedure other than that 455 timing cover thread above.

I bought the new pump from Rock Auto and I have no clue at this point what pump I am gonna get really other than the part seemed to be correct. Who knows and this juncture.

A link to a thread would be great if you have one.

Thannks,

 

Swab some permatex 3H aviation sealer in there and it'll be fine, assuming all the pieces of the gasket are still there.

 

I have had them come loose including my current engine. I found a NOS HD w/AIR water pump still in a AC Delco box and installed it last spring. I just pushed a little black silicone in the gaps and that includes inside the ports in the front of the engine and it sealed up fine.

 

Sweet this is what I needed to know. Thanks a million.

 

I have been searching for a thread about how to "IF" I need too, prep and paint he timing cover before re-installing a new water pump. The surface of the cover ain't in bad shape at all but I had to clean it real well and that, unpainted or whatever will leave that surface behind the pump exposed....right? I may be flat out tripping..maybe

I ordered a Gates pump from Rock Auto and I'll be damned of I didn't get that right. Same pump denominationally for my A/C car as the OEM pump....yeehaw

 

Timing chain cover has been bare metal for the last 48 years so...........

Henry

 

It pretty much has....I just saw a thread where a guys was painted black so I was scratching my head. I appreciate the point in the right direction. Mucho thanks amigo.

 

Let us know how this turns out. I'll be doing the same soon. I'd heard to put vinegar in the block as a light acid. Also heard to run CLR through it. Lots of rinsing after both. Anyone have anything negative to say about those products?

 

After a LONG breaking finally got the block and the heater core flushed. My question is now, do I need to replace the timing cover gasket since there is an 1/8" gap between the block and the cover having removed the old water pump?

Robert

 

On closer inspection...some of the gasket material is gone between the timing cover and the block. I know there is a sleeve seal there. Is it possible to change the cover gasket ONLY and not have to pull the balancer and re-gasket everything? The $64,000 question is this motor has never been touched. My brain tells me it ALL needs to be changed while I have it all apart. Very little of the gasket is gone....just a small piece above the top of the water jacket to the pump. If that makes sense.

Thoughts?


(Yeah, it's been a while. Life got in the way of my Cutlass and you guys)

Robert

 

Hey Rob, how goes it? To answer your question, I doubt you can get enough clearance to clean the old gasket out, surely worth a try.

 

Well, there didn't need to be.

Unfortunately, now you need to pull the harmonic balancer and take the cover off completely.

At that point, you MIGHTASWELL change the timing chain...

 

Yeah....I pretty much got that Joe.....Thanks man.

 

Post pics of your old timing chain. Almost all the early nylon coated cam gears come apart and end up in the oil pan. I am not sure if it is just age or material or both but the mid 70's ones seem to hold together much better. Good luck.

 

If it is its age as my motor is original to the car and the car has 53,000 miles. Plus the last time I drove it it ran great and quite hard (good...had power). I am looking forward to the swap. An adventure....It a no brainer as the front clip is off...and the motor is just right there wide in the open. It couldn't BE a better scenario.

 

Welcome back, good luck with the project. The MAW'S will start kiciin in.