330 or 455
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Joined: Dec 2015
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From: Mokena,Ill.
330 or 455
I am buying a 1967 Cutlass that has the original rated 320HP 330CID engine in it now running very well,however I have a built 1969 455 sitting in the garage.I heard the 330 is a very good motor but was just wondering if youall think a swap is in order.I think all the brackets and accesories swap over as well as the headers,so...any thoughts?
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From: Poteau, Ok
The 455 will swap as the 67 came with a 400 also. If your saying the 330 headers will swap to the 455, I don't think so. You may have some cooling issues and the ST300 transmission may not survive with any abuse.
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From: Mokena,Ill.
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I bought my 67 with nice running 330 last year and I will say this: if anything could use a benefit from doing a swap it’s the 2 Speed Jetaway auto tranny (if it’s still there). What a dog! I’ve got a TH350 ready to swap when I get a chance. Mine has bad solenoids for the switch pitch original torque converter. Trans fuse pops after a minute or two of driving. I’ve troubleshooted everything and even reconditioned the switch pitch controls at the carb..... It shifts and drives great but with out the variable torque converter function it’s total garbage! I’m stuck with a 1.5:1 and 1:1 gear or something like that..... Do yourself a favor and do a TH350/TH400/later overdrive/manual.... I now fully agree with the term Junkaway!
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Yup, and the headers themselves aren’t the real issue, they always have a bad rep of not fitting well. Your problem will be that the 67 and earlier A body frame will interfere more than the later cars. I bought a set of the cheap $150 Ebay stainless headers that I want to experiment on. Headers in a 67 can be a horror story but I’m all about kicking a challenge in the ***.
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I think for the price they are pretty damn amazing actually. Free and fast shipping too? I figure if I’m gonna have to knock some dents in them they are worth it. I haven’t fitup anything yet though. But since you know I deal heavily in the Classic VW stuff, it blows away any bug header for under $200 by a million miles. They’re up high on some shelves in my shop but I can pull them down and take some pics if you want. I have a custom A1 brand tig welded header for my VW truck that was about $450. And that’s only for 4 cylinders.... the Ebay headers are about 75% of the same quality. Pretty happy for something that will get some dents and scratches from actually driving it!
Last edited by 1967Supreeeme; Feb 19, 2018 at 08:16 PM.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 38
From: Mokena,Ill.
I think for the price they are pretty damn amazing actually. Free and fast shipping too? I figure if I’m gonna have to knock some dents in them they are worth it. I haven’t fitup anything yet though. But since you know I deal heavily in the Classic VW stuff, it blows away any bug header for under $200 by a million miles. They’re up high on some shelves in my shop but I can pull them down and take some pics if you want. I have a custom A1 brand tig welded header for my VW truck that was about $450. And that’s only for 4 cylinders.... the Ebay headers are about 75% of the same quality. Pretty happy for something that will get some dents and scratches from actually driving it!
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Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 38
From: Mokena,Ill.
sure do wish I had a switch pitch 400 in the 67,but whatever was in it originally got changed to a THM 350.Not a bad choice for a small block, but I dont know if it would hold up to the torque of a good running 455
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,135
From: Melville, Saskatchewan
They hang fairly low but so do Hooker A body headers. The Stainless Chinese headers are decent, I plan on set for my Dakota $150 Canadian shipped with a JBA mandrel Y pipe, which actually costs $50 more than the headers.
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I bought my 67 with nice running 330 last year and I will say this: if anything could use a benefit from doing a swap it’s the 2 Speed Jetaway auto tranny (if it’s still there). What a dog! I’ve got a TH350 ready to swap when I get a chance. Mine has bad solenoids for the switch pitch original torque converter. Trans fuse pops after a minute or two of driving. I’ve troubleshooted everything and even reconditioned the switch pitch controls at the carb..... It shifts and drives great but with out the variable torque converter function it’s total garbage! I’m stuck with a 1.5:1 and 1:1 gear or something like that..... Do yourself a favor and do a TH350/TH400/later overdrive/manual.... I now fully agree with the term Junkaway!
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