330 to 455 timing tab, tape and balancer diameters ...

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Old Jul 24, 2010 | 01:01 PM
  #1  
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330 to 455 timing tab, tape and balancer diameters ...

I'm prepping a 455 Olds to go in place of the spent 330 in my 64 F-85. The problem here is switching the timing marker from the 330, [with the thin "flange" balancer], to the bigger and fatter 455 conventional-looking balancer. Also, what is the part number/manufacturer [i.e. Mr. Gasket, MSD... etc.?] for the correct timing tape I'll need to buy? The balancer appears to measure 6.5" ... I've seen it called 6 3/8" or even 6" on EBay ... What is the "official" word here? I'm thinking I can "modify" the 330 pointer by cutting and relocating the tab, then finding TDC, finally adding the tape onto the balancer, starting at the new "zero" mark ... ideas? Cheers!, Mike
Old Jul 24, 2010 | 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 1964F85
I'm prepping a 455 Olds to go in place of the spent 330 in my 64 F-85. The problem here is switching the timing marker from the 330, [with the thin "flange" balancer], to the bigger and fatter 455 conventional-looking balancer. Also, what is the part number/manufacturer [i.e. Mr. Gasket, MSD... etc.?] for the correct timing tape I'll need to buy? The balancer appears to measure 6.5" ... I've seen it called 6 3/8" or even 6" on EBay ... What is the "official" word here? I'm thinking I can "modify" the 330 pointer by cutting and relocating the tab, then finding TDC, finally adding the tape onto the balancer, starting at the new "zero" mark ... ideas? Cheers!, Mike
First, why are you using the 330 timing tab? Are you trying to keep the 64 water pump with the driver's side inlet? A better solution would be to use a 65-up water pump and timing tab (such as the original one on the 455) and just have the outlets on the radiator tank moved. For that matter, you'll need a larger radiator anyway.
Old Jul 25, 2010 | 04:04 AM
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Hi Joe,

Thanks for your reply/comments. I found it to be a wash, as far as cost is concerned with the whole oddball water pump thing.. The 64 only pump costs 100.00 . The 65 style pump is 45.00 and the cost to swap over the outlet is 50.00, then i have to get a wrinkle hose for the bottom... which is about 20 bucks. So it looks like 6 of one and half a dozen of the other. The heavier rad will be an issue too, really. Is there a modern [all are plastic and aluminium, unfortunately..] comparable sized rad I can get that does not cost a fortune? I suppose it has to be a downflow type as well? Cheers, Mike
Old Jul 25, 2010 | 06:51 AM
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No matter what, the 65 up unit will do a much better job of cooling the engine, which makes it the better deal.
Throw the timing tape in the trash can, they never stay on anyway, no matter what kind of shellack you put on it... to try to keep it in place.
Use the 455 pointer, and balancer. Make a mark 2.009 inches to the right of TDC to indicate 36 degrees before TDC. Two strips of tape, and the wife's red fingernail polish will do that. Even comes with a brush applicator. Use her clear over it, to give it finish, and durability.
Sneak it back before she finds out.
Jim
Old Jul 25, 2010 | 08:59 AM
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Hi Jim,
Thanks for the comments. I suppose I'll go for the 65 pump. I have a good friend at a rad shop, and I'll see if he can cross reference me a similar but improved version of the factory rad. That's pretty slick about the nail polish.. I'll do that as well. The only last question I have is; Will I be able to use the 330 pulley set and accessories, or must I keep that heavy cast iron lower 3 groove 455 pulley, and use it with the rest of the 330 stuff? Cheers!, Mike
Old Jul 25, 2010 | 10:34 AM
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You should be able to use the 330 pulleys. The 330 pulleys will slow down the water pump and fan, without causing overheat issues. The big pulleys will speed up the pump, which is less of an issue on a low revving 455.
I am not sure about how well the power steering pump will mount up on the 455, you may have to space it due to the fact the 455 is a tall deck version of the 330/350. I went to an early 70's pump on my car (had to trim lower bracket to clear frame), just because it looks SO MUCH better/cleaner/compact, installed. The early setup is just plain fugly, IMHO.
You need to post pic's when you get it done.
Good luck.
Jim
Old Oct 7, 2010 | 06:41 PM
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Is this what they mean by "330 must have DTC remarked?"

If I just get a new balancer and a 350 or 455 timing tab, I'm good to go for running a total advance of 36*?
Old Oct 8, 2010 | 06:54 AM
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Another good idea when installing a new harmonic balancer / timing tab is to paint the timing tab and harmonic balancer black, and then use white paint to fill in the timing marks on the timing tab and the mark on the harmonic balancer. Essentially the same thing that Jim said.
Old Oct 8, 2010 | 09:04 AM
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check on line for radiators. I got one cheap from www.radiatorbarn.com that was copper, brass tanks, soldered. Don't use HOAT antifreeze with soldered radiators, use the old green colored antifreeze.
The 455 balancer is thicker and smaller diameter than the early units, but both have the same bolt pattern and distance from the engine so early pulleys will work. A 455 balancer will have the TDC mark matching its driver's side tab. It won't match a driver's side 425 tab. If you want to use a 64-330 or 65-7 330-400-425 tab for pass or driver side respectively, it is easy to bend it inward a bit to be close to the 455 damper. Then get true TDC #1 cylinder on the engine, and mark the 455 damper to match the notch on the tab you are using.
Old Oct 8, 2010 | 09:30 AM
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Why not just get the pulleys and pump, etc. from the 455 and be done w/ it. In the long run, you'll be better off buying a beat out car w/ a 455 f/ acouple hundred dollars and have all the accessories you need and then just sell the rest of the car to the salvage yard f/ whatever they'll give you. After the head aches of matching and checking, etc., considering time and money, you come out better using what was first intended for whatever application you're dealing with. I've been through that kind of thing too many times. I just find a junker f/ the needed misc. pieces, and have it all f/ next to nothing. Then dump the car. I've even made money in doing this. Mixing w/ the local motor-heads always helps the situation, even if they're not you're cup of tea, they may become just that. Bolting up what's actually guess-work usually comes out w/ problems. Get it all in one cheap package. Just a word from experience...
Just ie; the 455 in my '62 Ford pick up came from a '71 Olds 98 I bought and there I had not just a great engine but also all the misc. items I needed to bolt up the exact package that was in the 98 into my old pick up. From the radiator back, the hoses and all fit perfectly. I only had to buy the cross-member motor mount and trans mount, which I could have gotten from the 98, but wanted to strengthen the frame of the old pick up and keep it clean looking at the same time. There was no guess work at all. And inturn the engine runs like it did in the 98, perfectly. I sold the 98 body, which was really clean, and the engine and all parts cost me three hundred dollars total in the end. A great deal!

Last edited by Texas Jim; Oct 8, 2010 at 09:38 AM.
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