307 oil pan replacement on a Buick LeSabre
307 oil pan replacement on a Buick LeSabre
1984 LeSabre with a 307 motor here. The last time I had an oil change done was several years ago by a shop, my car is very much a once a month vehicle. I changed my oil recently and noticed that the drain plug had silicone on it. I finished the job and now I see that I have an oil leak from the plug area. I'm going to buy a new plug to see if that does anything, but it does look like the oil pan plug hole was warped / bent which is probably why they had silicone on it. I've been looking for a replacement oil pan just in case, but when I search for the part it doesn't exist for a Buick. The Delta 88 part is this one. Is the pan on the LeSabre and Delta 88 the same? I'd imagine so but I don't want to remove the pan and be SOL.
It's an Olds engine, thus, it's for the engine, not the car.
From at least 1964 through 1990, the SBO 260/307/330/350/403 gas engine oil pan is GM part number 555137. (not to include FWD)
Thus, you could get a good pan off any of those and be just fine.
From at least 1964 through 1990, the SBO 260/307/330/350/403 gas engine oil pan is GM part number 555137. (not to include FWD)
Thus, you could get a good pan off any of those and be just fine.
Last edited by 69HO43; Jul 1, 2025 at 04:31 PM.
That's very good to know! The stock images online look completely different than what's on my car which was terrifying. My drain plug is on the bottom center of the pan. I've never seen another pan like it.
You shouldn't need to replace the pan. A decent brass washer is all you need, even with some warpage. There is only a nut tacked on the other side of the pan. Tightening the drain plug should flatten the pan out unless there is some serious trauma.
Look under any small block Olds engine with an OEM pan and you'll see the same thing your car has. Many times, morons at the service stations don't know how to properly tighten pan bolts. They usually overtorque them and ruin threads.
If you need a new plug, it's GM p/n 390919. If the nut is stripped out, that will necessitate the removal of the pan to fix it. You could get a new nut welded in on the inside. Thread size is 1/2" - 20. You can get those drain plug repair kit setups but to me, that's just a band-aid. If you plan on keeping the car forever, I'd do it right.
You could try a new washer first, but depending on the problem of why it's leaking, you don't want to make it worse. Which leads to another question. You DO have a washer on the plug, right? GM calls it a gasket.
Gasket/plug seal is GM p/n 559563, also aftermarket under Dorman p/n 095-014.1 It's a crush-type copper washer that can and does wear out over the years and don't seal as well. The GM one looks sorta like a little donut when new, but when you smoosh it down, it flattens out. In any case, you do NOT want those plastic washers. They split and leak way too often.
Aftermarket Olds oil pans have the drain hole off to the side. OEM pans have it right in the middle. Aftermarket seemed like they wanted to copy the Chevy look. That's the easiest way to tell an OEM pan from an aftermarket pan. Unless someone started making OEM style pans I'm not aware of.
The GM parts are discontinued. But you can find them on ebay and/or third party outlets.
If you need a new plug, it's GM p/n 390919. If the nut is stripped out, that will necessitate the removal of the pan to fix it. You could get a new nut welded in on the inside. Thread size is 1/2" - 20. You can get those drain plug repair kit setups but to me, that's just a band-aid. If you plan on keeping the car forever, I'd do it right.
You could try a new washer first, but depending on the problem of why it's leaking, you don't want to make it worse. Which leads to another question. You DO have a washer on the plug, right? GM calls it a gasket.
Gasket/plug seal is GM p/n 559563, also aftermarket under Dorman p/n 095-014.1 It's a crush-type copper washer that can and does wear out over the years and don't seal as well. The GM one looks sorta like a little donut when new, but when you smoosh it down, it flattens out. In any case, you do NOT want those plastic washers. They split and leak way too often.
Aftermarket Olds oil pans have the drain hole off to the side. OEM pans have it right in the middle. Aftermarket seemed like they wanted to copy the Chevy look. That's the easiest way to tell an OEM pan from an aftermarket pan. Unless someone started making OEM style pans I'm not aware of.
The GM parts are discontinued. But you can find them on ebay and/or third party outlets.
The pan you linked to in your original post is for a 305 Chevy engine. That engine was used in some 84 Buicks and Oldsmobiles. You are probably searching for a "5.0l" pan and that is what is coming up.
Like 69HO said 555137 is the correct part number.
Like 69HO said 555137 is the correct part number.
Replacing the pan pretty much requires the engine to come out. I'd verify that the problem isn't just that the clowns at the shop lost the sealing washer first. If they did strip the threads for the pan plug, they owe you a new pan and the associated labor. And this is yet another reason why I do all my own work.
Yea, I change my own oil. I make sure I do it in the late fall and mid spring when the weather is nice. My 07 Grand Marquis requires that the plug is first gently threaded in by hand because very early in it's life someone cross threaded the bolt. Shops will destroy threads then tell you your oil pan is no good.
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