442NDTSS

Hello, I purchased a 71 cutlass S (350 engine, 2 Barrel carb) and put approximately 2000 miles on it with no problems. I starting noticing a loud popping noise right at acceleration and soon after, high rpms at idle. I removed the air cleaner and noticed that the carburater was loose, about 1/4 inch of movement. I looked around for bolts to tighten the carb down to the intake but found nothing. Since the looseness occurs at the bottom of the carb to what appears to be a base plate. this base plate appears to be part of the engine as there are 4 bolts holding it to the intake manifold. My assumption is that i have to unbolt the base plate with the carb still attached, turn the whole thing upside down, and tighten the bolts that possibly come up from the bottom. Please let me know if I am on the right track or if there is an easier way to tighten the carb down to the base plate. Thanks for reading.

oldcutlass

If the base plate is not loose at the manifold, and what you found loose was the carb base to body joint. Then yes you will have to remove the carb and tighten the four screws underneath.

442NDTSS

Thanks for your response. Will I have to remove all the vacuum hoses, connections, etc, or is it possible just to take out the bolts and lift the carb enough to put a screwdriver in there and tighten it?

MDchanic

Just take it all off. You'll need to take it apart and look it all over to be sure it's okay before putting it back together anyway.

You might want to buy a rebuild kit so you can replace gaskets, etc., since you'll have it all apart anyway.

Full rebuild instructions and specs are in the Chassis Service Manual.

- Eric

442NDTSS

although I was hoping for a different answer, I appreciate your response. Thanks to both of you. btw, nice buick, i had a 73 buick le sabre in high school, actually it was my Grand Fathers but he let me use it occasionally. Went on my first date in that car....

Allan R

Eric???? Oohhhhh Errrriiiiicccc?????? You gots a nice Booick! Ah ha ha ha ha ha ha.

Sorry NDTSS - Erics car is a 73 Delta 88 vert. You might have stirred the hornets nest with that comment If you need any links to rebuilding the carb just yell. Aw, never mind - here ya go: http://wildaboutcarsonline.com/membe...Section_6E.pdf

MDchanic

Why I oughta...!

This is a Buick:



And this:



but THIS is a dignified Oldsmobile:



... and DON'T let it happen again.

- Eric

Highwayman

You have to admire a man with big enough spears to call a pink car dignified.

BILL DEMMER

to the OP: if you're going in to the carb; get yourself a new float while you're at the parts store. it's likely your carb. has a nitrophyll float, over time, they start to absorb gas and become less buoyant. that leads to excessively rich mixtures, or worse-flooding. it sounds like the gaskets have died of old age, that tells me it's been a very long time since that carb. has had any attention paid to it. do it right and do it once.


bill

442NDTSS

Thanks Bill for your response....

oldcutlass

Or, if it runs good, just tighten the screws and put it back on.

droldsmorland

If rebuilding the carb scares you there are several good carb shops out there that will do it for you. They will check everything to insure its set correctly.
With an ignition tune-up (points, cond, clean the weights & springs, bump up the base timing a little, new cap & rotor, wires & plugs & check for “no” vacuum leaks etc...) and the rebuilt carb you'll think you installed a new engine.
But if you want to do it hands on that’s the way I self-taught myself was on a 2 barrel many moons ago. Just take your time and read the instructions. TIP: be careful of the check ***** they will roll out of the rebuild kit and the carb so watch for them and where they install. Might even be a You Tube how to out on the web?
As suggested get a new float unless yours is brass in that case just make sure its not full of gas then reinstall and set it to spec.