1983 Oldsmobile 98 307 Overheated
#1
1983 Oldsmobile 98 307 Overheated
White smoke was coming from my hood, thus I limped the car home using neutral as much as possible. Apon opening the hood the coolant was bubbling, I took off the cap to quicken the process as it spewed out of the container.
I'm trying to get this car to run reliably. As I looked around I noticed one of the belts was missing and another one had came off a pulley and was flipped over.
I think the top pulley is for the AC but I'm not sure what the bottom pulleys are for.
I cannot find where this connector goes to:
This hose is completely disconnected at one end, it attaches to the orange piece.
I'm trying to get this car to run reliably. As I looked around I noticed one of the belts was missing and another one had came off a pulley and was flipped over.
I think the top pulley is for the AC but I'm not sure what the bottom pulleys are for.
I cannot find where this connector goes to:
This hose is completely disconnected at one end, it attaches to the orange piece.
Last edited by TeamXlink; October 20th, 2014 at 09:26 AM. Reason: Put in image tags.
#2
This would be a good time to stop the car and let it cool off, rather than driving it.
Bad idea.
The engine will tend to overheat without any belts attached to the water pump.
This is an easy fix on the side of the road, especially considering the possibility of destroying the engine if you keep driving it.
From the bottom:
Welcome to ClassicOlds.
- Eric
- You can get a nasty burn (just ask Copper).
- By opening the system, you reduce the pressure in the system, which allows the coolant at the interface between the hottest spots on the heads to boil away, leaving nothing to effectively draw the heat away, and allowing a greater heat differential to develop between different parts of the engine, thus making head warpage and head gasket failure more likely.
This is an easy fix on the side of the road, especially considering the possibility of destroying the engine if you keep driving it.
- Crankshaft
- Water pump (directly above crankshaft)
- AIR pump (to the passenger side of the water pump)
- Power steering pump (to the driver's side of the water pump)
- A/C compressor (high and to the passenger side)
Welcome to ClassicOlds.
- Eric
#3
Put your belts back on.
If the AC belt was in place, it would have carried some of the load of driving the water pump and whatnot.
Put the vacuum hose back on. Well, replace that [and all?] with fresh hose.
The green electrical I think is the thing you ground in order to tell the computer you are setting the base timing now. Not sure though. In that area, it might be for the AC idle kicker solenoid. The wiring diagram in the chassis service manual should help. Surely you have one of those, or access via wildaboutcars.com?
If the AC belt was in place, it would have carried some of the load of driving the water pump and whatnot.
Put the vacuum hose back on. Well, replace that [and all?] with fresh hose.
The green electrical I think is the thing you ground in order to tell the computer you are setting the base timing now. Not sure though. In that area, it might be for the AC idle kicker solenoid. The wiring diagram in the chassis service manual should help. Surely you have one of those, or access via wildaboutcars.com?
#4
Welcome. Now would be a good time to get a Chassis Service Manual for your car. The computer-controlled carb on your 307 requires that all the vacuum hoses be correctly installed and in good shape to run properly. Also, there are nearly no mechanics who have the knowledge or patience to properly adjust this system any more and you MUST follow the factory adjustment process EXACTLY.
It doesn't. That's a test connector used for adjusting the carb. Don't worry about it.
It doesn't. That's a test connector used for adjusting the carb. Don't worry about it.
#5
#6
Put your belts back on.
If the AC belt was in place, it would have carried some of the load of driving the water pump and whatnot.
Put the vacuum hose back on. Well, replace that [and all?] with fresh hose.
The green electrical I think is the thing you ground in order to tell the computer you are setting the base timing now. Not sure though. In that area, it might be for the AC idle kicker solenoid. The wiring diagram in the chassis service manual should help. Surely you have one of those, or access via wildaboutcars.com?
If the AC belt was in place, it would have carried some of the load of driving the water pump and whatnot.
Put the vacuum hose back on. Well, replace that [and all?] with fresh hose.
The green electrical I think is the thing you ground in order to tell the computer you are setting the base timing now. Not sure though. In that area, it might be for the AC idle kicker solenoid. The wiring diagram in the chassis service manual should help. Surely you have one of those, or access via wildaboutcars.com?
I cannot access the manual at wildaboutcars.com. Paypal will not accept my card number.
EDIT: I've sorted out my Paypal, in 48 hours I will be able to use it to for wildaboutcars.com!
Thank you very much, every one for the help and welcomes!
Last edited by TeamXlink; October 20th, 2014 at 12:16 PM.
#7
Time for a little common sense. That hose is less than two inches long. If it's not attached to anything at the moment, then there is a male vacuum port within two inches of it that also has nothing attached to it at the moment. You might want to look a little more closely at that part of the engine. That's not a very large search pattern.
#8
#9
There are currently over a dozen on ebay, with current prices starting at under $3. Be sure you get the manual that covers the Ninety Eight, as there are separate manuals for the FWD cars that look exactly the same. You will also need the Electrical Troubleshooting Manual and the Fisher Body Manual.
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