Hello, I am new to this site and Oldsmobiles in general. We just acquired a 1979 hurst olds. I remember back in 78, a lot of GM engines had camshaft problems. Does anyone know if I should be concerned about the original camshaft in this engine? Thanks

 

No, it isn't a chebby turd. The mid 70's Olds 350 was far away GM's best 350. Your cam will be fine but is very mild, the nylon cam gear is more of a concern. Unfortunately you have the later 77 to 80 windowed main version with shitty flowing, crack prone heads. I don't think most of the 3A heads fail to point of say a Dodge Magnum head where they dump exhaust into the coolant. Very bad, been there.

 

Never knew of this cam issue but considering its mid to late 70s shouldn't surprise me.

That makes sense, may open a new thread regarding inconsistences in factory engines of the 70s. Heard something that threw me off the other day on a vintage road test.

Jori this is the best advice you could ever get on this subject. These years more than ever need to be maintained by the book. Otherwise we will be looking at another thread just like this one. https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-heads-134088/

 

I'm unaware of camshaft problems in OLDS engines, the camshaft nylon timing gear is of concern and it would be better if replaced.

My understanding is that oil back in the day had more zinc/ZDDP, that would be worth taking into account when choosing oil to protect the flat tappet/lifter and camshaft setup in your engine. Look for an oil that has at least 1,000 ppm ZDDP. Forum members have reccomended Valvoline VR1 for this.

Good luck!!!

 

thank you, and plan to stay on top of it. I am thinking about using a flow k

ool brand of water pump

 

I recommend it. Great quality piece that's worth every penny. Have one on my 69.

It absolutely makes a difference, but you will want to make sure that the rest of the cooling system is up for it. My original Harrison heater core went after 100,000 miles. Unfortunately had it replaced with a generic, stock, local parts store version. ( while keeping the original water pump tucked away for good measure ) All was fine and dandy for a few years till I went with the high performance water pump. Blew out the newer core the first time I took the car to the track after new water pump install. Guess hitting 5000 RPM twice in less than 15 seconds sealed its fate.

I don't believe the heater core would of gone bad without the new found pressure from Flowkooler, at least not so soon... To me this confirms the new pumps vigor.

P.S. the Flowkooler also caused my new lower rad hose with reducer to leak as well. The reducer was the weak link. Tightening it only works for regular driving. It leaked under track WOT conditions no matter what. No issues whatsoever with daily driving, even if spirited prior or post.

Bottom line your cooling system shouldn't have any weaknesses, if it does the Flowkooler performance pump will expose it under certain circumstances.

 

Just tinkering with the car over the last year. Haven’t done that much with it but did clean up the engine compartment, raise the rear, and changed the tires

 

if it has not been replaced , you need to get rid of that nylon timing gear before you have a BIG problem, get a good set like a Cloyes. Some say stock is better then roller for durability. Mine had 62K miles on it and the nylon gear was cracked everywhere, I was amazed it was still holding together..

see: https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...g-gear-141151/

After upgrade, mine had 230K miles before a rebuild was needed to pass smog, ran good though just not enough to pass smog..

also I like the VR1 racing oil see 20-50W zinc content.. but keep in mind it is racing oil and does not have the same level of detergents like a conventional oil has and is designed for frequent changing..

 

yes, part of the reason for tearing the front of the motor off was so that I can change the timing chain and gears. 66,000 miles. Oddly enough, the factory gear is not cracked! I was surprised that it wasn’t. I need a under hood fire blanket. Or hood insulator. Are those available anywhere?

 

I had two 76 350's without any cracks in the nylon cam gear. Nice looking H/O by the way. I see Olds put the small balancer on that 350. Some had them, some didn't in those years. It probably doesn't make a difference if the rpms are kept reasonable.

 

Bought some Oldsmobile engine paint… It doesn’t match. I don’t think I’m gonna paint it. I’m going with the patina look

 

Does anyone have a source for the correct 1979 aqua/blue engine paint? Also, would really love to get a hood insulation kit. I don’t care if it is aftermarket.

 

What brand is that? Duplicolor is like that and shitty paint. The Plastikote GM Blue was thick and looked like this.

 

from a pontiac forum:
1977-1982 AllGM Corporate Blue

Ames 1978-1981 Corporate Blue FN411
Classic Industries GM Corporate Blue 62030
Duplicolor General Motors Blue DE 1608. Users report this is a good match to GM's original color.
Plasti-Kote GM Corporate Blue 221. Users report this color does not match.
PPG/ Ditzler Blue 15159
VHT Paints GM Blue SP-135
Available at most local parts stores.
Note that aftermarket GM blue usually varies from original GM blue. This has been confirmed by owners of original GM paint.

saw this on ebay , same color as 403 for your 350. no clue how good..

https://www.ebay.com/itm/202573706356

same part number

https://www.inlinetube.com/products/inl15382

 

I can do a test spray of Duplicolor GM blue, I have a tiny bit left. I will never put that crap on anything again. It is watery, reacts with the old paint and isn't very durable. If you can find the VHT, get it, it is a much better paint.

 

I bought the VHT. That’s the color sample I show in the picture. It’s not even close to the original color. I know fading and what not occurs overtime but, I remember working at the GM dealership my junior year and looking at brand new cars in 1979 and 1980. The color on my engine is very much the original color. The blue that I got/VHT paint, just doesn’t look right