1969 Cutlass S Radiator Questions

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Old Aug 24, 2024 | 07:44 PM
  #1  
Doug69Cutlass's Avatar
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1969 Cutlass S Radiator Questions

I need to replace the radiator on my 1969 Cutlass S convertible. It has a 350, 4 barrel, 10:1, auto trans, with factory air. After reading a few different suppliers descriptions of what I am supposed to have I am now confused. I am looking to get a copper and brass OEM type radiator and both US Radiator and OPGI both say I need a 3 core 17” x 28-3/8” and that the mount is “tapered” where the tank on the drivers side at the mount is 2-3/4” wide and the tank on the passenger side is 3-1/2” wide at the mounts. The suggested unit also has a 1-1/2” inlet and 1-3/4” outlet. My problem is that it looks like my tanks on both sides are 2-3/4” thick and so is the top mounting bracket to match. My inlet is 1-1/2” and outlet is 1-3/4”. Am I looking at the wrong dimension on my radiator or do I have a different setup than what they suggest? The other problem is that they do offer a radiator that is straight 2-3/4” across, but both inlet and outlet on that unit are 1-1/2” which doesn’t match my outlet then. Has anyone else run into this issue?

Thanks ahead of time.
Doug


Old Aug 24, 2024 | 08:10 PM
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Sugar Bear's Avatar
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Doug, have you considered having your original radiator recored and using the old tanks? Judging by the hose clamp in the picture I'm guessing your vert is quite original.
Old Aug 24, 2024 | 08:51 PM
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About the outlet size - 1970 and older use the larger 1 3/4” size and 1971 and newer use the smaller 1 1/2” size.

Also note the 1970 and older water pump inlet is larger than the 1971 and newer applications.

Last edited by Fun71; Aug 24, 2024 at 08:55 PM.
Old Aug 24, 2024 | 09:01 PM
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Doug69Cutlass's Avatar
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Yes it is a very original car. I still plan to look into the repair option but haven’t yet. We do still have a radiator repair shop in central Wisconsin that I can check. The thing is my core isn’t really the issue but the passenger side outlet tank has about (12) 1/4” to 1” hairline cracks in the back and side from top to bottom that are starting to leak. I attempted to JB Weld (water weld) a few as a temporary fix but gave up after patching half of them. I am thinking the tank on that side is shot and am not sure what the repair options or cost would be for that.
Old Aug 24, 2024 | 09:07 PM
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Doug69Cutlass's Avatar
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Ok the outlet size of 1-3/4” makes sense then. I also measured my water pump inlet and that looked to be 2” if that makes sense.
Old Aug 24, 2024 | 09:35 PM
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Yes, those are the correct dimensions for the 1970 and older engines.

Maybe post a want ad for the end tank. It’s an easy job for a radiator shop to swap those.
Old Aug 25, 2024 | 05:04 AM
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Thanks for the advice. I have the back seat and side panels out right now and am replacing the convertible top cylinders and lines due to a cylinder seal leaking. Once I’m done with that I will plan to take it to the radiator repair shop to see what they can do.

Old Sep 16, 2024 | 03:40 PM
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After giving up on the JB weld repairs of the outlet tank cracks I found two more leaks in the core and decided not to bother with a radiator repair and to just put the money toward a new radiator. I have an exact replacement radiator ordered from US Radiator with the same materials, dimensions, and hose connections. I am also trying to source new hoses, side seals, and isolators, etc. before delivery of the radiator so I can install it once I get it. I would like to do this before I pull the radiator out of the car but I can’t measure the isolators at the bottom at this time. After looking at all the isolator options from different companies I’m a little confused. My inlet and outlet reservoir tanks are both 2-3/4” wide at the mounting flanges where the tanks meet the core (Not tapered). I have a 3-row (core) & top plate.

My question is are all four of my rubber isolators both top and bottom the same part number or size (length)? The style I have does have the little mounting nubs on the ends. I see you can order sets of two 3 row that are preformed from Inline Tube company so I could order two sets of those. I also see some that are straight that can be bent from Fusick or OPGI. But there are several different ordering options like a set of 4 that are 6” long, or a set of 4 with two 5 1/2” and two 6 1/2” inch so I don’t know what length I would need with those types. I think the ones on my top plate would be 5 1/2” if they were the straight type, but I don’t see an option where you can order four of those shorter 5 1/2” ones? I guess right now I’m planning on ordering two sets of the 3 row preformed mounts from Inline Tube. Anybody with this same size radiator work through this sizing question before?

Thanks ahead of time,
Doug
Old Sep 16, 2024 | 04:14 PM
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I ran into this same problem with incorrect listings when I was looking for a radiator for my 69 Cutlass wagon. Yes, the four rubber saddles are the same. I actually ended up getting an aluminum radiator from Holley while on Power Tour and mickey-moused the saddles to get it to fit. I still need to fab up correct brackets for it. The "temporary" fix is going on five months now...
Old Sep 16, 2024 | 05:52 PM
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Thanks Joe, I did see on someone else's post where they bought four of the preformed 3 row rubber saddles from Inline Tube and said they worked on their 3 row (core) radiator so that’s the road I’m going to take and assume their radiator width and brackets will be the same as mine. Yes, the companies selling these really don’t have good descriptions of what these different part numbers fit on. They list them as fitting on all the different Cutlass types from 1966 - 1972 which makes no sense because of all the radiator options that were available. There are some that do state 3 or 4 row, but it would be nice if they also listed the actual radiator dimensions, etc. they fit, or broke the options down that these different isolators are for and why.

Regards,
Doug
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