W27 Cover Real?
#1
W27 Cover Real?
Ok guys what are your thoughts on this cover? I believe it to be real as I have never a repro with all the fins there. If it is real what's the value on a real cover? You don't see real covers alone very much just the rears. This cover has been on the car for over 15yrs. Thanks for any input.
#7
original
compare the edges of the w 27 lettering and the edges of the hex holes
original%20cover_zpsjkfoao6x.jpg
compare the edges of the w 27 lettering and the edges of the hex holes
original%20cover_zpsjkfoao6x.jpg
#9
A picture always helps show the differences. Comparing the two, the original mold were made by die-makers, the repro mold was made by children who couldn't draw a regular hexagon, much less form letters consistently.
When I looked at the one I've had for years, I realized it was made by the same children who made the one pictured.
#11
Your cover is very close to original in appearance I would not be in a rush to sell it with out further proof that it is not original.
I would like a side by side comparison with a original cover before I sold it for less than it might be worth unless you need the $ now.
I would like a side by side comparison with a original cover before I sold it for less than it might be worth unless you need the $ now.
Last edited by Bernhard; January 10th, 2017 at 12:43 PM.
#12
I agree with Bernhard.
Right now the main defining difference that I can see is that the shallow relief above the "W" droops down on the left side more than the right side, which originals do not. At least the ones I have seen.
The repos today are very noticeable and less crisp, but the one you have seems close to an original style.
Why did you paint it with "cast blast" dark aluminum color?
Right now the main defining difference that I can see is that the shallow relief above the "W" droops down on the left side more than the right side, which originals do not. At least the ones I have seen.
The repos today are very noticeable and less crisp, but the one you have seems close to an original style.
Why did you paint it with "cast blast" dark aluminum color?
#13
Here's a pic of the inside of a reproduction in a thread over at supercars reproduction.
http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/ubbt...-rear-axle-cov
http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/ubbt...-rear-axle-cov
#15
your welcome
Thanks Dreamin.
A picture always helps show the differences. Comparing the two, the original mold were made by die-makers, the repro mold was made by children who couldn't draw a regular hexagon, much less form letters consistently.
When I looked at the one I've had for years, I realized it was made by the same children who made the one pictured.
A picture always helps show the differences. Comparing the two, the original mold were made by die-makers, the repro mold was made by children who couldn't draw a regular hexagon, much less form letters consistently.
When I looked at the one I've had for years, I realized it was made by the same children who made the one pictured.
#17
I agree with Bernhard.
Right now the main defining difference that I can see is that the shallow relief above the "W" droops down on the left side more than the right side, which originals do not. At least the ones I have seen.
The repos today are very noticeable and less crisp, but the one you have seems close to an original style.
Why did you paint it with "cast blast" dark aluminum color?
Right now the main defining difference that I can see is that the shallow relief above the "W" droops down on the left side more than the right side, which originals do not. At least the ones I have seen.
The repos today are very noticeable and less crisp, but the one you have seems close to an original style.
Why did you paint it with "cast blast" dark aluminum color?
I agree this is a high quality copy or original.
Nothing in the video or super cars thread has changed my opinion on the cover.
X2 two on painting the cover, soda blast and clear coat would be my choice for the cover restoration.
#18
I'm almost thinking that the "defect"/droop on the L side of the depression area above the "W27" is at least one solid indicator of a repop (haven't seen that "feature" on any originals so far). It's as if they left a glob of metal in the mold in that position on the repro mold/tooling.
#19
Thanks w-30dreamin; the difference is clearly discernible between your original cover and the repro with the defect/droop. Does anyone have a cover that they know to be a repro without the defect/droop? I'm trying to educate myself on the telltale signs of a repro cover before possibly buying one from someone who claims to have an original.
#20
Thanks w-30dreamin; the difference is clearly discernible between your original cover and the repro with the defect/droop. Does anyone have a cover that they know to be a repro without the defect/droop? I'm trying to educate myself on the telltale signs of a repro cover before possibly buying one from someone who claims to have an original.
I have taken pics from the internet that are available to anyone.
I learned this from info that has been posted on this page before.I have been studying and reading for many years.
The info is out there if you pay attention and research.
I have always had an eye for detail so spotting the differences is easy for me. As I can see,not so easy for others.
#21
I'm almost thinking that the "defect"/droop on the L side of the depression area above the "W27" is at least one solid indicator of a repop (haven't seen that "feature" on any originals so far). It's as if they left a glob of metal in the mold in that position on the repro mold/tooling.
The issue I have with absolutes is that how do you know how many tooling's the factory had or if they were ever repaired?
I have come across some very clean block, head castings and some very poor castings.
Last edited by Bernhard; January 11th, 2017 at 11:52 AM.
#23
#24
If that is the case then I would agree that it is a reproduction.
The issue I have with absolutes is that how do you know how many tooling's the factory had or if they were ever repaired?
I have come across some very clean block, head castings and some very poor castings.
The issue I have with absolutes is that how do you know how many tooling's the factory had or if they were ever repaired?
I have come across some very clean block, head castings and some very poor castings.
No kidding on block and head castings....some with massive chunks hanging off of certain areas.
#25
#26
To be honest, None of the repops are very good when compared to the originals but 95% of people would not know. The thing is, The originals are so rare that it is not a common thing for people to see and be use to a correct one. To top that off, most of the real covers that get posted are used and that makes it even harder for some people to tell them apart from pictures. I am not a "professional" W-27 guy but have owned a couple of them and examined them closely.
#27
The cover that the OP posted is either The Parts Place or Super Cars Unlimited, they have the same cover to the best I know. I love Fusick but I have to admit, there W-27 cover sucks really bad, at least the one I seen of theirs about 5 years ago did.
#30
After seeing these two pictures, the differences between original and repro are plain as day; thank you for posting. Seeing the beauty of the original cover is motivating me to clean up the W-27 I have had in storage since 1988. Unfortunately, the aluminum has darkened over the years (I believe due to moisture).
Last edited by Ctls442; January 12th, 2017 at 03:34 PM.
#31
After seeing these two pictures, the differences between original and repro are plain as day. Seeing the beauty of the original cover is motivating me to clean up the W-27 I have had in storage since 1988. Unfortunately, the aluminum has darkened over the years (I believe due to moisture).
#32
This Spring I will bring it outside for some close-up pictures, and will ask for recommendations on clean-up/restoration.
#33
Thanks for posting the picture of the nos w27 cover.it is easy to spot the re-pop
The Nos cover has a milled face the hexagon's are crisp and there is no defect in the top left corner.
It is easy to spot once you have seen a clean cover v re-pop.
#34
IIrc, wasn't there a 10 bolt aluminum W27 COVER only available across the parts counter in '71-'72? I acquired this a handful of years ago & was wondering whether it was real or not? It has a couple chips on it & has a jack cradle mark on the bottom like it had been on the car a long time. It has been sandblasted? The face is not milled & there is no part number on it. I was told it was a dealer purchase but don't know for sure. Any help is appreciated.
#35
IIrc, wasn't there a 10 bolt aluminum W27 COVER only available across the parts counter in '71-'72? I acquired this a handful of years ago & was wondering whether it was real or not? It has a couple chips on it & has a jack cradle mark on the bottom like it had been on the car a long time. It has been sandblasted? The face is not milled & there is no part number on it. I was told it was a dealer purchase but don't know for sure. Any help is appreciated.
#38
#40
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
I said that based on the texture of the cover. Mine looks bright and almost polished out of the packing box. You are correct that the W27 cover was available as a bolt on part from the dealers. It's more than just a look, the extra fins provide extra cooling and the capacity of the differential increases by about ?? 500 ml of fluid. Don't know the exact amount but it's significantly more than stock 71/72.