Trunk Release
#2
take out the back seat. Then use a few extensions on a socket I tape the socket to the extension and at each extension junction. Take out the two bolts on the lower side where the trunk latch connects to the latch receiver on the lower side. it will open then. If you had done that first there would be no need to drill out the cylinder.
#3
Any chance car has a power trunk release? Look for a button in the glove box. It's vacuum operated so you'll need a vacuum source. Hook up vacuum source, push button and decklid should open.
#5
I saw a locksmith do this to my '69 4-4-2 when the trunk lock seized and the key would not work. He gently raised the bezel that goes around the locking mechanism by sliding a small blade between the inner edge of the bezel and the lock. After he had a small segment of it raised, he got a hold of it with needle nose pliers, tore into the edge of the bezel, and just worked the tear around the bezel until it was torn to the outer edge. Once torn to the outer edge, he was able to remove the bezel and then the lock cylinder came out. Once the lock cylinder came out, he drilled through the end of the lock cylinder casing, which eventually gave him access to the trunk lock after clearing what was in the way. With the trunk lock mechanism visible, he just stuck a flat blade screwdriver into it to open the trunk lid. Of course, I had to get a new lock assembly but the locksmith had it available and keyed it to my original key.
Randy C.
Randy C.
#6
Never enough extensions
First off, thanks for the replies and advise. I ended up going the route of the extensions and pulling the lock assembly off from the back, boy that was a lot of extensions, that trunk has to be 7'-8' long. Now the next question if anybody knows, trying to get the ignition switch out and the threads on the original module are rusted on and the entire dash seems to be one solid pressed piece of steel with a few small cutouts for accessories, this thing is built like a tank. I have a new ignition module and cylinder but no way to get the old one out, and after a day of laying upside down.... I am ready to take a grinder to it to cut it out(not really), but any thoughts or words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated... thanks again
#9
You have to remove the cylinder first, the bezel will not come out with it in.
I will check the CSM, (you do have one don't you?), I believe you turn the key to ACC, insert paper clip in hole, then pull out.
I will check the CSM, (you do have one don't you?), I believe you turn the key to ACC, insert paper clip in hole, then pull out.
#12
E-bay for originals. They are best. I use a digital one, from Dave Graham.http://davegrahamauto.com/
Some don't like them, but mine is good. You need the Chassis Service Manual and the Fischer body manual. Do not waste money on anything but factory manuals.(Haynes, Chilton, etc.)
A factory manual is a must, even if someone else does the work for you. They don't know 50 year old cars.
There are aftermarket factory manuals, but reprints can be a problem as also with digitals. Rock auto has reprints and Dave graham cd
Some don't like them, but mine is good. You need the Chassis Service Manual and the Fischer body manual. Do not waste money on anything but factory manuals.(Haynes, Chilton, etc.)
A factory manual is a must, even if someone else does the work for you. They don't know 50 year old cars.
There are aftermarket factory manuals, but reprints can be a problem as also with digitals. Rock auto has reprints and Dave graham cd
#13
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...y-manuals.html
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post