Dan K

Bought a mid-sixties Pontiac this summer as a father-daughters project, mostly cosmetic cleanup. The horizontal paint surfaces are super oxidized, and I had hoped that my normal buffing techniques would bring it back but it's been tough going.

Was told it was painted in the early 2000's with enamel. I've tried buffing it out with a good power buffer using Macguire's medium and heavy cut mirror glazed compound; it takes off worst of the oxidation but the paint still has a haze to it. Also tried No.7 rubbing compound like my dad used to use, that seemed to do a little better but still hazy. Lots of hairline cracks in the paint up close like a spiderweb, but many of those eventually seem to buff out.

Any tips on a different product or method? Neighbor thinks I should try wetsanding with 2000 grit, but worried that the paint is too thin.

Here are some of my daughters grinding away on it this weekend, with some progress. You can see the haze that returns after buffing on the side view pic - the driver's rear quarter panel. Look right by the door jamb going back on the upper part of the panel. Prob hard to tell in pictures.

Any thoughts appreciated!

RROLDSX

It looks like you have the dual action buffer,which works great. I simply used turtle wax white cream premium rubbing compound with the compound cutting pad on slow using plenty of rubbing compound. Then used a polish with the polishing pad and finished with NuFinish and the finishing foam pad. They may not be expensive professional products but I was happy with the results. Good luck.

Rustbucket2

Hope I'm not breaking any rules here. Try autogeek, they helped me buff my car to a glass like shine, very helpful , you will have to join there site, to ask, or just look up some past post. P.S. love to see young people work on old cars.

Ctls442

I have had good results using Color Back Finish Restorer.

Bozang1

Try rust rustoleum recolor. I just saw an infomercial for it and it looks like it's definitely worth a try. I've used a few infomercial products with success.

83hurstguy

Definitely do some searching and reading on autogeek. Great products and support.

DA polishers like the Flex are not cheap but do amazing work. Most people don't want to spend that kind of budget on a polisher/pads/compounds. The newer Menzerna are out of this world with the results they deliver.

#7 is a glaze with oils in it that permeate the paint. The trick with that is to literally pour it onto the surface in the shade, work it, then let it sit/soak in. You can work it in with terry cloth towels. Autogeek has some write ups on saving/preserving original lacquer paints that shows how it works.

steverw

dont know how hot it it there but doing this in direct sunlight is not the best of ideas. 2000 grit paper wont take off much, try it in an inconspicuous area.

Tedd Thompson

I have used a dual action buffer and Race Glaze with surprising good results. Works good on spot/ chip repairs also.... Tedd

oldcutlass

X2 wet sand with 2000 grit. Use a lot of water and a hand sanding pad. Then go through your buffing steps.

Chris J

I have used Auto Geek and been happy with their help and products. But do your research they offer a ton of different products. I have a Flex orbital it works great and is easy to use, would highly recommend it. Great project keep after it and enjoy the time with your daughters.
CJ

chopolds

When bringing back an oxidized finish, to find out what will work, I work backwards. That is, from the mildest form of "polishing", to more aggressive ones. If a good wax doesn't work, go to a liquid polish. If a liquid polish doesn't work, go to a micro fine compound. You can do this by hand for a less aggressive job, or go to a buffer for more dead paint removal. Next step is a more aggressive compound. If that doesn't work, I'd try sanding with 1500 or 2000 wet. It really doesn't remove a lot of paint if you don't stay in one spot for a long time. If you really have enamel, it's usually pretty thick, so you should be safe, except on the edges (there paint is always thin).
Now, once you remove the oxidation, with whatever method worked, you need to go back "up" the ladder. So you're taking out the scratches left by the compound, with the micro fine, then go to the liquid polish to take out the micro's scratches. Finally, wax, or glaze it for protection, and that last step of a nice wet looking finish.
If the step you're doing doesn't remove the haze, or tiny scratches, you usually need to go back a step and do a more thorough job on that one.

Dan K

Thanks for all the ideas and tips. Yes, I did know that doing it in the sunlight was a no-no, but in the process of trying to fix some electrical gremlins (no heater fan, horn, wipers, radio) the starter stopped working - and I had to use my child labor when they were available. The heater and wiper do now though! One step forward, two steps back. It'll start if I hotwire it, so there is a connection problem under the dash or at the fuse block where I was working.

I think my next step will be to experiment with some wetsanding at either 2000 or 1500 grit. I'll report back!