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I get mine from drive train shop. They do drive shafts, rear ends, manual transmissions, mostly for trucks. They made me a new steel drive shaft with Ujoints for around $300.
The drive shaft out of my Rallye 350 has been separated at the isolation joint and is now in 2 pieces. Can this be repaired or should it be replaced?
Is it the same driveshaft that would be in a 1972 convert?
I ask because my cars driveshaft looks like one inside the other with rubber around it. I've never seen one like it before and I know car to be orig . Someone told me it was a hd driveshaft but I don't know that to be true.
I took mine to the powder coater, as part of the process they bake and blast as prep. When I picked it up it was in two pieces, the rubber melted out!
Curt
All AT cars used the concentric tube driveshaft with the rubber inserts. I believe these were molded in place, so unless a company like Steele Rubber can revulcanize it, I doubt it is repairable. Frankly, unless you really care about being factory correct, I'd have a solid tube shaft made by a driveshaft shop.
Like Joe P. said, 2 pc. shafts are for the lower HP AT cars only. You are obviously trying to get the car OE appearing, so you might want to get an original tapered shaft and have it rebuilt. Takes the 4000 rpm clutch drops a lot better...
Like Joe P. said, 2 pc. shafts are for the lower HP AT cars only.
Just to avoid truth decay, I'll point out that I never called it at "two piece driveshaft". It's a one piece driveshaft with concentric tubes and rubber isolators between them. My 62 F-85 has a two piece driveshaft. My crewcab dually has a two piece driveshaft. In both case, there is a third U-joint in the middle and a center support bearing.
I 'chased' a high speed vibration in my 1971 Cutlass for years. Eventually a local driveline service figured out that the dried out rubber had allowed the two tubes to spin relative to each other leaving the U-joints out of phase. I replaced it with a new custom driveshaft and now I can rocket vibration-free. (And no one has ever noticed its not the "correct" driveshaft.)
I 'chased' a high speed vibration in my 1971 Cutlass for years. Eventually a local driveline service figured out that the dried out rubber had allowed the two tubes to spin relative to each other leaving the U-joints out of phase. I replaced it with a new custom driveshaft and now I can rocket vibration-free. (And no one has ever noticed its not the "correct" driveshaft.)
Driveshaft is usually the culprit of many drive line issues...Angles balancing out of phase NEW shafts also u-joints u-joint slop in the yoke mating area .... it goes on and on. Slip yoke in the tranny tail shaft tranny bushing...too long a driveshaft too short of drive shaft...
Jim
J D
May 15th, 2016, 06:56 AM
