Electric choke BS
#1
Electric choke BS
Set the Wayback Machine for about 2002. Custom Cruiser's choke coil had been victim of an choke heat tube leak which cooked the plastic choke air tube and did some damage to the choke coil itself. A rebuild didn't help so I ordered a Holley ProShop reman QJet, correct numbers and all. I specified I wanted an electric choke.
Well- the choke never did work well, but good enough to get by, and working 75 hrs a week I didn't have time to delve into it much. Over the years it worked less and less "well", and when the carb started having idle and stumble issues last summer I pulled it down and rebuilt it. Found HPS had put the short Chevy fuel filter in it, NBD because I keep an inline filter on fuel pump suction to avoid ripping threads out of QJet fuel inlet. Put in correct long filter with check valve and it cold started better, but still not like you would expect. In really cold weather (25* or below) it would never completely kick off fast idle either, actually increasing fast idle speed as the choke heated up, and I had to set the choke lean to stop that.
Few weeks back I installed one of those electronic chokes since I figured the choke coil had gotten weak, was why it didn't work well. I noticed when comparing them the new coil was wound opposite of the one on the car.
Long story short, HPS had put in the wrong electric choke coil in the RB process. Installed the new one, started the car, and starts quick, fast idle works perfectly and choke opens in a timely manner. Obvious to me now that when I had the earlier choke adjusted to spec, as it heated up it was working exactly backwards, driving the coil toward rich keeping the fast idle on instead of other way around.
Moral to the story? even though you buy something from a supposedly reputable and reliable outfit, they do screw up. The Gray Ghost has not started this well in 15 years. I just wish I knew what vehicle that electric choke coil HPS installed was for.
Well- the choke never did work well, but good enough to get by, and working 75 hrs a week I didn't have time to delve into it much. Over the years it worked less and less "well", and when the carb started having idle and stumble issues last summer I pulled it down and rebuilt it. Found HPS had put the short Chevy fuel filter in it, NBD because I keep an inline filter on fuel pump suction to avoid ripping threads out of QJet fuel inlet. Put in correct long filter with check valve and it cold started better, but still not like you would expect. In really cold weather (25* or below) it would never completely kick off fast idle either, actually increasing fast idle speed as the choke heated up, and I had to set the choke lean to stop that.
Few weeks back I installed one of those electronic chokes since I figured the choke coil had gotten weak, was why it didn't work well. I noticed when comparing them the new coil was wound opposite of the one on the car.
Long story short, HPS had put in the wrong electric choke coil in the RB process. Installed the new one, started the car, and starts quick, fast idle works perfectly and choke opens in a timely manner. Obvious to me now that when I had the earlier choke adjusted to spec, as it heated up it was working exactly backwards, driving the coil toward rich keeping the fast idle on instead of other way around.
Moral to the story? even though you buy something from a supposedly reputable and reliable outfit, they do screw up. The Gray Ghost has not started this well in 15 years. I just wish I knew what vehicle that electric choke coil HPS installed was for.
Last edited by rocketraider; August 19th, 2018 at 02:05 PM.
#2
Qjet choke coil:
2GC choke coil:
#4
I'm interested in wiring up this choke per Joe P's tech sticky, so the thing won't heat up till the engine's running. Right now it's on switched 12V from fuse block which I may or may not keep. Running it off the alternator output seems like an efficient idea.
I see he's updated the SMP sender part number, but the thread references a NAPA OP6610 and also a NAPA OP6618. Which of these is now correct to make this wiring work? Are there changes to the Airtex and BWD part numbers?
I see he's updated the SMP sender part number, but the thread references a NAPA OP6610 and also a NAPA OP6618. Which of these is now correct to make this wiring work? Are there changes to the Airtex and BWD part numbers?
#5
I'm interested in wiring up this choke per Joe P's tech sticky, so the thing won't heat up till the engine's running. Right now it's on switched 12V from fuse block which I may or may not keep. Running it off the alternator output seems like an efficient idea.
I see he's updated the SMP sender part number, but the thread references a NAPA OP6610 and also a NAPA OP6618. Which of these is now correct to make this wiring work? Are there changes to the Airtex and BWD part numbers?
I see he's updated the SMP sender part number, but the thread references a NAPA OP6610 and also a NAPA OP6618. Which of these is now correct to make this wiring work? Are there changes to the Airtex and BWD part numbers?
Sorry for the confusion. The P/Ns in the first post in that thread are the correct ones, and I've just added the AC Delco number also.
Standard Motor Products PS127
NAPA ECHLIN OP6618
Airtex 1S6552
BWD S369
AC Delco D1825A
NAPA ECHLIN OP6618
Airtex 1S6552
BWD S369
AC Delco D1825A
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