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Electric Choke Conversion Kit

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Old August 14th, 2018 | 04:43 AM
  #1  
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Electric Choke Conversion Kit

Hello,

Researching an electric choke for my 1972 CS 350 4BBL. Seems like some of you folks have done this. What kit did you use and were you happy with the results?
Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated.

BTW, I found Joe's post about wiring for the EC , slick, I bookmarked that !!
Old August 14th, 2018 | 06:00 AM
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If you have a stock Qjet, you don't need a kit. Simply replace the hot air choke coil with an electric one. I use the ones from a mid-80s Chevy Qjet. Standard Motor Products P/N CV329, about $38 at RockAuto. Note that the terminal requires a special plug to fit. Dorman P/N 85113 is about $4 at RockAuto. Be sure to discard the gasket between the old choke thermostat and the housing. The electric thermostat requires metal-to-metal contact for the ground path.


Old August 14th, 2018 | 09:57 AM
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And be sure the 12 VDC wire is connected to a keyed 12 volt source so it shuts off with the engine.
Old August 14th, 2018 | 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by droldsmorland
And be sure the 12 VDC wire is connected to a keyed 12 volt source so it shuts off with the engine.
Well, technically, you want the choke connected to a source that only has power when the engine is running. This is why I showed the use of an oil pressure switch, which is what the factory uses. If you have an oil pressure switch, it doesn't matter if the source is keyed or full time, since the switch only closes when there is oil pressure.
Old August 14th, 2018 | 07:10 PM
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Good point Sir.
Old August 15th, 2018 | 07:21 PM
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Use Joe P's oil pressure switch setup, works perfect!
Old February 3rd, 2020 | 07:07 AM
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I see the part numbers for the oil pressure switch. My car has an oil pressure gauge in addition to an idiot light. Will any of these switches support the three circuits? Oil pressure gauge, oil pressure light and electric choke?

Thank you
Kevin Walker
Old February 3rd, 2020 | 07:24 AM
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Joe, what info do you have for a 2bbl carb?
Old February 3rd, 2020 | 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by walkerkj
I see the part numbers for the oil pressure switch. My car has an oil pressure gauge in addition to an idiot light. Will any of these switches support the three circuits? Oil pressure gauge, oil pressure light and electric choke?

Thank you
Kevin Walker
I'm not aware of a three way sender like that, and frankly, every gauge requires a different resistance range for the sender. Just install a tee fitting with the sender for the gauge and the sender for the idiot light and choke.
Old February 3rd, 2020 | 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by yellowone
Joe, what info do you have for a 2bbl carb?
If you're talking about a 2GC, the coil in the choke operates in the other direction. There is an electric choke coil that works in this application. This thread will provide more info.
Old February 3rd, 2020 | 08:11 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by joe_padavano
I'm not aware of a three way sender like that, and frankly, every gauge requires a different resistance range for the sender. Just install a tee fitting with the sender for the gauge and the sender for the idiot light and choke.
Thank you for your response. Are you referring to a pneumatic tee or a jumper wire? If a pneumatic tee, would you happen to have a part number I could order? I would not know where to begin.
Old February 3rd, 2020 | 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by walkerkj
Thank you for your response. Are you referring to a pneumatic tee or a jumper wire? If a pneumatic tee, would you happen to have a part number I could order? I would not know where to begin.
I'm talking about a 1/8 NPT brass tee fitting.


Old February 3rd, 2020 | 12:28 PM
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Apollo, I hooked mine to a 12 volt source that is on when the key is on. That was in 1992. Have never had a problem. I see this is an old thread and you may have already figured it out. Take care.
Old February 3rd, 2020 | 01:44 PM
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Given a choice, I route the power from a source that's hot with the key in "Run", but not hot in "Accessory", "Off", or "Crank". I don't want the choke powered while the starter motor is grinding away; extended crank time in the winter shouldn't open the choke.

THEN route the power through a normally-open oil pressure switch, so that the choke won't continue to heat if the engine stalls while I'm inside having my last cuppa coffee while the engine warms-up.
Old February 3rd, 2020 | 03:04 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Schurkey
Given a choice, I route the power from a source that's hot with the key in "Run", but not hot in "Accessory", "Off", or "Crank". I don't want the choke powered while the starter motor is grinding away; extended crank time in the winter shouldn't open the choke.

THEN route the power through a normally-open oil pressure switch, so that the choke won't continue to heat if the engine stalls while I'm inside having my last cuppa coffee while the engine warms-up.
Which is what this sticky from 2011 shows.
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