BFG T/A Tire Pressures
#1
BFG T/A Tire Pressures
Anyone have a good guide for tire pressure on new BFG Radial T/A 225 70R14? I'm looking for all around regular driving, no competition. Obviously the original sticker pressure was for bias ply.
#3
The tires will have the maximum pressure for the maximum load on them, but that doesn't translate to what to run for regular use.
35 PSI is what I run on my 245-60-15 BFG TAs. This gives even tread wear and doesn't seem to make the tires too hard and give a rough ride. If you feel the ride is rough, lower the pressure.
This is what I do on my Jeep. The 33x12.50 tires on it show maximum pressure of 55 PSI, but the Jeep is so light that would feel like driving down a railroad track. I run them at 26-28 PSI on the road and that gives an even contact patch and a smooth ride.
35 PSI is what I run on my 245-60-15 BFG TAs. This gives even tread wear and doesn't seem to make the tires too hard and give a rough ride. If you feel the ride is rough, lower the pressure.
This is what I do on my Jeep. The 33x12.50 tires on it show maximum pressure of 55 PSI, but the Jeep is so light that would feel like driving down a railroad track. I run them at 26-28 PSI on the road and that gives an even contact patch and a smooth ride.
Last edited by Fun71; August 1st, 2018 at 10:09 AM.
#9
Sounds like 30 +- is the consensus. The tire shop that sold and rotates them seems to put 33-35 in them, which I think is too much and makes for a harsher ride. And I don't much trust them. They are experts at destroying lug nuts, and use the impact gun regardless if I ask them not to.
#10
I know what you mean fun71 about max pressure. I have an old 3/4 ton Suburban. Those big 16 inch tires recommend 80 psi rear and 55 psi front when towing a heavy load. When you unhook and drive with no trailer, it's like it has concrete tires!
#11
#14
I run around 35 PSI in my 245-60-14 BFG T/As. During winter, I pump them up to around 40 PSI to help avoid flat-spotting.
After a bad experience of having my one of my SS1s nearly fall off the car due to un-torqued lug nuts after a visit to a tire shop, I refuse to let them mess w/ my nuts. When tires are needed, I remove the wheels from the car, remove the center caps (and trim rings if it has them) and take the wheels in to the shop to have new tires mounted & balanced. Then I pick them up, take them home, re-install the "dressing" and remount the wheels to the car myself.
After a bad experience of having my one of my SS1s nearly fall off the car due to un-torqued lug nuts after a visit to a tire shop, I refuse to let them mess w/ my nuts. When tires are needed, I remove the wheels from the car, remove the center caps (and trim rings if it has them) and take the wheels in to the shop to have new tires mounted & balanced. Then I pick them up, take them home, re-install the "dressing" and remount the wheels to the car myself.
#15
I drove the car to the shop because I also wanted an alignment. But I too removed the trim rings and center caps so they wouldn't be damaged. Then I had to remove each wheel again to reinstall the center caps. 4 Wheels times 2 is a lot of work, just because the tire shops have monkeys with zero supervision and zero commitment to keep the customer's car safe. And they are just as bad with late model cars. I know, I need to find another shop, but I can't find any in my area.
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March 18th, 2016 10:14 AM