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Ok, so I'll try to get the best info I can! So I have a 72 olds 455 that's fuel injected which I obviously put on. I made sure no wires were loose or touching and took time with it. And also, before the Fitech it was still doing this. So last year I started having a starting problem, I would try and try and it would turn over and start after awhile,but while turning over the positive on the battery post would spark and glow red. It actually melted the bolt right out of the battery. I tested the starter and it maxed out my amp Gauge and killed the amp tester.( the tester maxed out at 600 amps) so clearly I have an issue. So I got a new starter and a brand new battery. Well I fried that new battery also! So I was looking around the car and saw that the valve cover was leaking and it was going into the flywheel plastic cover and maybe was soaking the starter causing it to draw a lot of amps. So I got a brand new starter and a used battery. Everything worked perfect, I also changed the timing to 34 degrees total. Anyways it was starting awesome even when it was hot. Now all of the sudden it won't start and is completely draining the battery. Now this battery won't hold a charge at all. I don't have anything that fancy, I have a aftermarket radio and a subwoofer, but the car is charging at 14 all the time. I have led bulbs in the gauges but that should draw any more power then before. Any ideas would be appreciated having to buy a battery and starter every 6 months isnt good for the wallet! Thanks!
^^^^^^yes grounds, grounds, grounds!!!...Sounds like ground it seeking the path of least resistance through a path it shouldn't be taking. Verify the negative cable to the block is tight and clean on both ends. Ohm the neg cable. Should be low ohm or low resistance. Same goes for the positive cable....low resistance clean and tight on both ends. Your primary problem is likely in the secondary circuit, otherwise, it would be popping fuses and or burning to the ground.
Get a new battery. Get a battery disconnect switch(non chineasium) and hook it up on the negative side of the battery so you can isolate the battery when not in use until you find the problem. This will save the battery. I put an isolation switch on all cars that sit and or are old. Fire safety.
Still have the problem Do an amp draw or parasitic isolation test.
Dont skimp on new cables. USA made only! The correct USA made cables are available from most restoration vendors.
Last edited by droldsmorland; June 7th, 2018 at 11:48 PM.
Thank you thank you! I will try these asap! I do have a new power cable from the starter to the battery and I grounded the block to the chassis, I will get a new negative cable and re ground the battery! And thanks for the tip on the disconnect switch! Just one question, my fuel injection computer re starts when the battery dies or is disconnected. Will I have to re set it every time with the disconnect switch?
The starter negative needs to be grounded directly to the block on the left head behind the power steering pump. This could be the main cause of the problem.
And yes to the injection system restart.
I use the battery cutoffs as a fire safety tool while parked in my garage and as a theft deterrent when I cant keep a direct eye on the car say at a show. The plastic wheel comes completely off and I put it in my pocket.
I don't know how the FI computer reacts to disconnecting the battery for extended times. Does it wipe out the memory and cause it to go through the complete learning process again?
[QUOTE=Cutlass455;1100723]. So last year I started having a starting problem, I would try and try and it would turn over and start after awhile,but while turning over the positive on the battery post would spark and glow red. It actually melted the bolt right out of the battery.
Adding to the ground issue,
It almost sounds like a bad fusible link wire as well. The positive batt cable will glow if the car won't start and you keep the key turned to the start position with a bad fusible link wire.
What starter are you using, factory or high torque mini? If you are using one from a 350 it's a low torque starter and you need a high torque one for a 455.
The painted one is a high torque starter for a 455. Notice the strap at the front (not the coned side) of the starter coming off the solenoid, it is further back. By now you have probably fried the cables so order a new set. I got mine from Fusick, but many places sell them. If it is not the wrong starter I'd go with a bad negative cable. Either way at this point change the cables.
I do have the high torque starter, also could you explain the fusible link a little bit and where to find it? Also, I forgot to add that these fuses keep popping and killing the car it's the one with no fuse that's popping. And yes I put another one in lol
A fusible link is a sacrificial smaller wire attached to a bigger wire that its designed to protect. In case of an overload or short, the smaller wire (fusible link) heats and burns open preventing the larger wire from heating and melting the rest of the harness. The fuse in question (marked gauges/ trans) is the power to your gauges and/or indicator lights and the transmission downshift circuit.
A fusible link is a sacrificial smaller wire attached to a bigger wire that its designed to protect. In case of an overload or short, the smaller wire (fusible link) heats and burns open preventing the larger wire from heating and melting the rest of the harness. The fuse in question (marked gauges/ trans) is the power to your gauges and/or indicator lights and the transmission downshift circuit.
so the fusible link must go to this box on the firewall?
That box is your horn relay. Yes, on the power distribution stud is normally where there would be a fusible link. You should have one on the 10ga red wire that feeds the main power into the car. I've found that a fusible link is either bad or good, generally no in between If the car cranks and all your lights work its not a problem.
Here is a schematic for your car, if you click on it it will enlarge. Follow the pink wire off the fuse on the schematic. It goes to the instrument cluster and the switch at your gas pedal and then to the transmission. I'd disconnect pwer at the switch and replace the fuse and see if it blows. I not check those led wires in your gauges for a short. For the drain on your battery, put an amp meter in series with your positive battery cable and see what the load is with the key off.
I do have the high torque starter, also could you explain the fusible link a little bit and where to find it? Also, I forgot to add that these fuses keep popping and killing the car it's the one with no fuse that's popping. And yes I put another one in lol
If your "trans" fuse is popping it sounds like you are getting power feeding back through that circuit the wrong way round. That almost certainly means you have a missing ground somewhere. Make sure you have a good solid ground between the battery and engine block, the engine block and the firewall (car body) and the one many people overlook, engine block to the chassis. Your starter circuit is drawing so much current that it is finding any and every path back to the battery it can.
I appreciate the information from all of you it's a lot of help! So far I have the block grounded to the firewall from the block. I got a brand new negative grounded to the chassis. And I have the block grounded to the chassis. All fresh cables and ground down to metal. I put a new used battery in and it starts perfectly fine. i haven't messed with the fusible link yet. I also took out a lot of wired that the person before me had connected with a Ton of connectors. So now the power wires and grounds are solid wires. The main power wore had 3 splices in it so I replaced it. So I guess I wait and see. I've check all the grounds and wires and fixes the main wires and have plenty of grounds I think. So I guess the next step is to just wait to see if my battery dies?
Did you put an amp meter in series with your battery cable to the battery+ and see what the draw is. If you don't have an amp meter, then a simple test light in series will work also. With the test light in series if there is a draw the light will light.
Did you put an amp meter in series with your battery cable to the battery+ and see what the draw is. If you don't have an amp meter, then a simple test light in series will work also. With the test light in series if there is a draw the light will light.
nope I will so that as soon as I get an amp meter, I will try the test light also! Obviously I have draw somewhere I juSt have to find it
Perhaps the first place to look for the current drain is the aftermarket FI system. Is it wired direct to the battery or via an ignition live?.
I know this sounds dumb, but does it have a memory wire, like most car stereo systems?. This should be a battery live, but only drawing a tiny current. It's possible that the wrong wire is live.
Yes, on the power distribution stud is normally where there would be a fusible link. You should have one on the 10ga red wire that feeds the main power into the car. I've found that a fusible link is either bad or good, generally no in between If the car cranks and all your lights work its not a problem.
I agree, most of the time it will either start or nothing, however,
At one time, I found I had a loose fusible link wire when my battery cable began glowing and my car wouldn't start because I continued to turn the key trying to start the car.
Someday's it would catch and start until the day my positive cable started smoking.
Just my experience with a loose/frayed fusible link wire from the starter to the firewall.
Hope you get it sorted out soon!
Eric
June 7th, 2018, 06:48 PM
