AC conversion?
#1
AC conversion?
Having trouble with my 72's ac. Trouble is it's still set up for R12 and it's very hard to find anyone locally that will service it. Should I just go ahead and convert it to the newer system? One mechanic said it would not cool near as well with the newer freon. Would like to hear others opinion on whether to convert or keep trying to find someone that works on old systems.
#2
On my '70, switched over to the Sanden R134 compressor and switched to the pressure control valve instead of the POA valve 3 years ago, system works perfect and no cooling problems.
Summit has the compressor mounting kit for the Sanden.
Summit has the compressor mounting kit for the Sanden.
Last edited by Mrgadget; May 31st, 2017 at 09:03 AM.
#3
I would keep the R12 setup and find someone who can work on it. You are correct that an R134A conversion will not cool as well as the original R12 setup, but "how well" you need the AC to work may depend upon where you live (how hot it gets in the summer).
Do you know what's wrong with your AC system?
Do you know what's wrong with your AC system?
#4
I'm down in Texas where ac is a must. Not exactly sure what's wrong since I cant find anyone that can work on it without loosing whatever freon is left. Compressor works fine just not cooling at all.
#5
Sounds as if may be low on refrigerant, and I am amazed that you can't find someone with a set of R12 gauges to check that. I have two sets in my garage.
What's the history on this issue? Has the AC ever worked? Did it just stop?
So without gauges, you should be able to look at the small round window on the drier to assess the state of charge. Bubbles or streaking in the window mean low charge.
Below is a pic of the drier I grabbed off the internet showing the window on top.
What's the history on this issue? Has the AC ever worked? Did it just stop?
So without gauges, you should be able to look at the small round window on the drier to assess the state of charge. Bubbles or streaking in the window mean low charge.
Below is a pic of the drier I grabbed off the internet showing the window on top.
#6
My cousin, the previous owner, said the ac has frequently been a problem over the last few years and her mechanic said it had a leak somewhere.
It seems the drier has been replaced with one that doesn't have a sight glass. According to her records she had a new drier and rebuilt compressor installed in 2008 and again in 2011. Evaporator core also replaced in 2011.
It seems the drier has been replaced with one that doesn't have a sight glass. According to her records she had a new drier and rebuilt compressor installed in 2008 and again in 2011. Evaporator core also replaced in 2011.
#8
Yes, if you don't have the gauges, and don't want to get a set, then you need to find an A/C mechanic who knows what he's doing.
Refrigeration isn't rocket science - if you understand how it works, you can work on any system, whether R-12, R-134, R22, or anything else.
- Eric
Refrigeration isn't rocket science - if you understand how it works, you can work on any system, whether R-12, R-134, R22, or anything else.
- Eric
#9
I may purchase some gauges. It's been many years but I have added refrigerant to vehicles before. Problem is if it is low where do I get R12? I have called around and so far haven't found anyone that has any and I doubt it's going to get any easier in the future.
#10
R-12 is still commercially available, if you've got a refrigeration license. I got mine on line several years ago for a few bucks from an organization called IMACA. Had to take a 20 question test. I don't know if they still offer it.
As far as R-12 itself, I've found the best place to buy it is at flea markets - even if it's $20 a can, a couple of cans will set you back way less than a visit to an A/C shop... and I've gotten it for as little as $3 a can.
R-12 is still made and used extensively in third world countries, and is still recaptured, purified, and resold here, plus LOTS of us have barbecue tanks full of it from before it was restricted, so I suspect there will be plenty of it around for a long time to come.
- Eric
As far as R-12 itself, I've found the best place to buy it is at flea markets - even if it's $20 a can, a couple of cans will set you back way less than a visit to an A/C shop... and I've gotten it for as little as $3 a can.
R-12 is still made and used extensively in third world countries, and is still recaptured, purified, and resold here, plus LOTS of us have barbecue tanks full of it from before it was restricted, so I suspect there will be plenty of it around for a long time to come.
- Eric
#11
This ebay sale states the freon is "COMPATIBLE WITH R12". Do you think it's the real thing?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/R12-SYSTEMS-...j21naQ&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/R12-SYSTEMS-...j21naQ&vxp=mtr
#12
Do not use any of those commonly available cans. That stuff is a similar gas - usually propane - that does not work nearly as well as R-12 or R-134a. Better than air, but not a good idea.
Keep looking and you can find someone still slinging R12. Where in TX?
Keep looking and you can find someone still slinging R12. Where in TX?
#14
Well after searching everywhere for R12 and someone that would even work on an R12 system I gave up and went with the conversion. So glad I did. Blowing cold air and if it's any less efficient then the R12 I can't tell. In fact it's colder then it's ever been. Best part, if it does have a very small leak I can now go to Walmart and buy a can for $5.
#15
Well after searching everywhere for R12 and someone that would even work on an R12 system I gave up and went with the conversion. So glad I did. Blowing cold air and if it's any less efficient then the R12 I can't tell. In fact it's colder then it's ever been. Best part, if it does have a very small leak I can now go to Walmart and buy a can for $5.
#16
They just installed new fittings, replaced the compressor oil and of course new freon. They said the compressor and condenser was fine. Cost a little over $200. Well worth it or I wasn't going to be driving it until October.
#17
#20
Had the work done at a shop near my house that's done work for me in the past. First Tire and Automotive on Eldridge. I would think any decent mechanic could do it.
#21
If you look on Craigslist and type in R12 usually someone is selling it for $20 to $50 a can. I got a never used 15lb. tank of it for $200. If the technician is a virtuoso with the system a R12 system can be made to run on R134 99% as well but it is a matter of filling the system with exactly the right amount and adjusting the POA valve for the new Freon. A new design condenser doesn't hurt either. Since our systems are 40-50 years old leaks are a constant problem. One TV show host said something I think is true: "replace everything or don't bother replacing anything".
#22
Still cooling great with the R134 which I can buy for $5 a can. The evaporator core and compressor were both replaced 6 years ago so maybe that's one reason it's working so well.
#24
I'm glad both of you are happy with the r134a conversions. If I had caught this thread earlier I would have suggested purchasing the r12a linked to in a previous post. I used this to recharge the AC in my 86 f250 and it worked well. I had done a r134a conversion in the past with poor results.
If you guys need to add r134a in the future it will be readily available. You can even get the recharge kits at the auto parts store and do it yourself.
If you guys need to add r134a in the future it will be readily available. You can even get the recharge kits at the auto parts store and do it yourself.
#25
I'm not sure how far into the future R134A will be available. I have read that it will be phased out, just as R12 was years ago. Stock up now so you'll have it when you need it. A few years ago I bought a 30 pound jug from Sam's Club for about $70 so I hope I'm set for my "new" cars.
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