Rear Suspension Setup for a Weekend Warrior?
#1
Rear Suspension Setup for a Weekend Warrior?
I'm looking to at least get an idea of what parts to use to rebuild the rear suspension.
The car will be built with the intention of being a weekend warrior, that is to say I could cruise it during the week, then fill up the bottle and slap on the slicks'n'skinnies for a weekend night at the track.
The drivetrain won't be terribly aggressive; 350, high compression, ported heads, moderate cam, mid-RPM intake, bigger carb, stalled auto, with a moderate shot of spray. I would also like to be able to launch on slicks.
So what parts would be necessary/desirable for such a setup?
Axles: I'm guessing 31 spline would be a good idea based on the slicks and stall. Right now it's got stock axles with a 3.73 posi rear end.
Diff Cover: Is this necessary? If so, do I need a W27 brace, or something like an LPW cover with girdle? I highly doubt that a cover with full tube brace would be necessary.
UCA/LCA: I know poly bushings all around are necessary. Do I need fully boxed or other aftermarket pieces? Do the mounting points need to be reinforced? Are adjustables a must?
And last, are there any other traction aids that would be useful?
Any thoughts or advice are welcome. I'm a bit rusty on the old SRAs since going to the dark side of an IRS. Of course the remedy for those not chattering the teeth out of your head with wheel hop and slinging axles everywhere was Delrin/aluminum bushings everywhere, 31 splines and a heavy duty diff cover.
The car will be built with the intention of being a weekend warrior, that is to say I could cruise it during the week, then fill up the bottle and slap on the slicks'n'skinnies for a weekend night at the track.
The drivetrain won't be terribly aggressive; 350, high compression, ported heads, moderate cam, mid-RPM intake, bigger carb, stalled auto, with a moderate shot of spray. I would also like to be able to launch on slicks.
So what parts would be necessary/desirable for such a setup?
Axles: I'm guessing 31 spline would be a good idea based on the slicks and stall. Right now it's got stock axles with a 3.73 posi rear end.
Diff Cover: Is this necessary? If so, do I need a W27 brace, or something like an LPW cover with girdle? I highly doubt that a cover with full tube brace would be necessary.
UCA/LCA: I know poly bushings all around are necessary. Do I need fully boxed or other aftermarket pieces? Do the mounting points need to be reinforced? Are adjustables a must?
And last, are there any other traction aids that would be useful?
Any thoughts or advice are welcome. I'm a bit rusty on the old SRAs since going to the dark side of an IRS. Of course the remedy for those not chattering the teeth out of your head with wheel hop and slinging axles everywhere was Delrin/aluminum bushings everywhere, 31 splines and a heavy duty diff cover.
#2
Your first launch will tell you a lot.
I would do air bags and boxed arms at the least. Poly bushings next and then work from there. No need for the exotic stuff until you do serious track time. Air bags will make a world of difference for traction as will no hop bars. If you go that route start with 15#'s on the right and 5#'s on the left. Adjust the right bag up or down until she comes out dead straight in the bleach box.
I would do air bags and boxed arms at the least. Poly bushings next and then work from there. No need for the exotic stuff until you do serious track time. Air bags will make a world of difference for traction as will no hop bars. If you go that route start with 15#'s on the right and 5#'s on the left. Adjust the right bag up or down until she comes out dead straight in the bleach box.
#3
Your first launch will tell you a lot.
I would do air bags and boxed arms at the least. Poly bushings next and then work from there. No need for the exotic stuff until you do serious track time. Air bags will make a world of difference for traction as will no hop bars. If you go that route start with 15#'s on the right and 5#'s on the left. Adjust the right bag up or down until she comes out dead straight in the bleach box.
I would do air bags and boxed arms at the least. Poly bushings next and then work from there. No need for the exotic stuff until you do serious track time. Air bags will make a world of difference for traction as will no hop bars. If you go that route start with 15#'s on the right and 5#'s on the left. Adjust the right bag up or down until she comes out dead straight in the bleach box.
I've never dabbled in air bags yet so I'm not too sure on that just yet.
Thanks for the tips.
#4
I would go with the poly bushings all around. And of course the lower box arms, or one of the after market lower arm assy.
you must have a chubby 12 bolt rear in order to have 3.73's What you have now will work fine for now. As you work your way to more power and faster times , you can up grade as you go. Once you have a bunch of seat time, you will get a feel for what will improve your performance.
God luck.
Gene
you must have a chubby 12 bolt rear in order to have 3.73's What you have now will work fine for now. As you work your way to more power and faster times , you can up grade as you go. Once you have a bunch of seat time, you will get a feel for what will improve your performance.
God luck.
Gene
#5
Here is what I have on mine:
UMI boxed LCA's with poly bushings
UMI tubular adjustable UCA's with poly bushings
UMI tubular mount braces
BMR anti-roll bar
12 bolt Chevy w/33 spline Moser axles and weld on housing ends for 9" Ford bearings
T/A Performance support cover
33 spline posi unit w/steel clutches
UMI boxed LCA's with poly bushings
UMI tubular adjustable UCA's with poly bushings
UMI tubular mount braces
BMR anti-roll bar
12 bolt Chevy w/33 spline Moser axles and weld on housing ends for 9" Ford bearings
T/A Performance support cover
33 spline posi unit w/steel clutches
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