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1-7/8 primaries with 3.5 merge collectors and 3 inch exhaust to cutouts then back to mufflers, then necking down to 2.5 over the rearend and to the stock location
Nice! I wonder if I’m leaving any power on the table with 1 3/4 headers? I do have 3 inch exhaust and will be adding a x-pipe after my trans swap.
That is good to know. It looks like we have similar set ups, my 72 is turning more drag car since i picked up the 64 for cruising and road trips. What are you going to do to the 70 to make it more drag orientated? I have been fallowing your 65 build, it is a clean car to start with
Not too much really...lower lb springs up front on the coilovers, a much bigger stall converter and losing the GV unit is all for now. I really think this combo has a 10.5x in it. A better 60ft and bigger carb will help. I’m still running an 850.
I still want to drive the hell out of it!
-peter
Took the 67 out for test-n-tune, and proceeded to **** all over the starting line. Still doesn't 60, and I now have a wheel hop that wasn't there prior.
Took the 67 out for test-n-tune, and proceeded to **** all over the starting line. Still doesn't 60, and I now have a wheel hop that wasn't there prior.
I measured the lower control arm angle and they're 5⁰ uphill. Found an article from Jeff Smith that says the lower arms should be parallel to the ground.
This software sucks
Last edited by fleming442; Oct 11, 2020 at 06:03 PM.
I measured the lower control arm angle and they're 5⁰ uphill. Found an article from Jeff Smith that says the lower arms should be parallel to the ground.
This software sucks
Not sure of what to say about any of that, but from watching your video your front end seems tight.
I thought the front end was tight as well from the video posted.
There are a lot of cars running anti-roll bars and many manufactures to choose from. There are many articles and videos online.
I thought the front end was tight as well from the video posted.
There are a lot of cars running anti-roll bars and many manufactures to choose from. There are many articles and videos online.
He can't run a real anti roll and drive it on the street. When my customers start talking about a 9 inch I tell them don't do that, its a power robber. Tried to find pictures of my rear end setups but can't find the pictures.
Yikes, no wonder that thing works the way it does.......wow.
Couple of questions
1. Do you run a spool?
2. When you make a turn, do you get ANY body roll?
Last edited by VORTECPRO; Oct 25, 2020 at 04:19 PM.
Don't worry about an ARB at this point. The lower arms having 5° isn't so bad. It's the relationship of the lower arms and the upper arms that dictate your instant center. I don't see any anti squat (body rise at the rear). Read up on instant center. An easy way to fix it on an A body is to rais the rear mounting points on the uppers at the rear ( stop hop bars). Another way is lift bars for the lowers. They both move the instant center. I personally don't like lift bars.
TRZ weld in Anti roll bar on a 9” driven on the street ALL THE TIME.
-peter
Is there an advantage to mounting the bar to the axle and the link mounts to the frame?
I have only seen the links mounted to the axle and the bar mounted to the fame with this style of bar.
Last edited by Bernhard; Oct 11, 2020 at 09:40 PM.
He can't run a real anti roll and drive it on the street. When my customers start talking about a 9 inch I tell them don't do that, its a power robber. Tried to find pictures of my rear end setups but can't find the pictures.
I was thinking bolt on anti roll bar for street strip car with bushings mounts like in the article.
12 bolt housing straitened, tubes welded
Raised upper mounts
Fabricated lower arms which allow for the through bolts to be torqued with no bind, so the housing bolts don't wear.
Santhuff rear shocks
HR anti roll, only because its legal in stock, my Chevelle has a Wolf race craft anti roll.
30X9 Hoosier radial slick 29.5 version C7
This produces 1.37 60s @ 3650 running 10.70s in F/SA 513 HP. I try and limit extension/separation as much as possible, until it blows the tires off.
I always try to
Last edited by VORTECPRO; Oct 11, 2020 at 10:02 PM.
12 bolt housing
Raised upper mounts
Fabricated lower arms which allow for the through bolts to be torqued with no bind, so the housing bolts don't wear.
Santhuff rear shocks
HR anti roll, only because its legal in stock, my Chevelle has a Wolf race craft anti roll.
30X9 Hoosier radial slick 29.5 version C7
This produces 1.37 60s @ 3650 running 10.70s in F/SA 513 HP. I try and limit extension/separation as much as possible, until it blows the tires off.
I always try to
Thanks Mark for sharing your set up.
Those bushings look like a one off set up?
How did you raise the upper mount point on the diff housing?
I measured the lower control arm angle and they're 5⁰ uphill. Found an article from Jeff Smith that says the lower arms should be parallel to the ground.
This software sucks
Are you putting air in drivers side air bag? I never air mine up. I have never had wheel hop in my 1967 with slicks. Same shocks as yours boxed stock control arms that I welded plates to and no sway bar on rear. My rear end is a Chevy 373 spool.Best 11.20 @120 mph. I think there was more left on the table. Maybe a high ten .
Is there an advantage to mounting the bar to the axle and the link mounts to the frame? I have only seen the links mounted to the axle and the bar mounted to the fame with this style of bar.
I'm not sure if there's a benefit to mounting the bar to the frame or to the axle.
But most of the ones I've seen welded to the frame heavily reinforce the cross member OR weld in a dedicated cross member...so more weight?
-petert
Yes the suspension was tight when that video was taken. I've since loosened it up.
I've only used the bags for load leveling. I pull the valves at the track and air back up for the trip home..
I've been told more than once to get rid of the poly bushings in favor of joints; there's $460. More than one have said to lose the Nittos in favor of ET Streets; there's another $500.
Jeff Smith says lower it, and I'm totally down with that for some $50 Moogs and $35 F-body isolators. I want to do tall lower ball joints over the winter, anyway. I've been looking for a way to drop it, and now I can.
Lowering the car won't hurt. Aren't the rear springs in your car open on the top, you could just trim them. Poly bushings work fine as long as they are in good shape. My gold car I had all poly bushings, stock rear springs trimmed to hight, 1-1/8 sway bar, air bag passenger side (spring trimmed to be level with 7 psi), monro shocks. Up front Moroso and 90/10. Very consistent 60 in the mid 1.5's.
Lowering the car won't hurt. Aren't the rear springs in your car open on the top, you could just trim them. Poly bushings work fine as long as they are in good shape. My gold car I had all poly bushings, stock rear springs trimmed to hight, 1-1/8 sway bar, air bag passenger side (spring trimmed to be level with 7 psi), monro shocks. Up front Moroso and 90/10. Very consistent 60 in the mid 1.5's.
What would consider a good 60 foot for a 11.50 car at full weight, small tire slick?
Stuffed a J headed 455 into a 64 F85 with a friend for a one day race day lol. Worked for a few months best we did was an 11.64 which was shy of our 11.2 goal. Trans wasn't working right and after pass #6 she dead lol. Not horrible considering the entire nature of this slapped together ordeal. It was in the 80's with 50 percent humidity and D.a. in the 3300 range.
Last edited by coppercutlass; Oct 12, 2020 at 06:26 PM.
A few weeks prior we ran ar Cordova international raceway for their BOP race. Car wasn't as fast as usual but I ran nothing but 12.0's all weekend with 2 identical 11.97's back to back. Weather was not the best and I was rusty dialing in. Went a few rounds.
A few weeks prior we ran ar Cordova international raceway for their BOP race. Car wasn't as fast as usual but I ran nothing but 12.0's all weekend with 2 identical 11.97's back to back. Weather was not the best and I was rusty dialing in. Went a few rounds.
Mark what would a good 60 foot time look like 3750 LB 11.50 ET manual transmission?
3750 LB 12.00 ET manual transmission?
Do automatic cars 60 foot better?
That's kind of a loaded question, Bernhard. Unless the whole setup is really dialed in, the manual car has many more variables, but can leave as hard as a trans brake auto.
I'm learning a lot this year. Unfortunately, I have to keep reminding myself that it's just a hobby and to not go off the deep end. I'm glad Drag Week was canceled. I would have had a bad time. There's not much track time left at my local track, so most will wait until spring.
Duh, my springs are pigtails on both ends. I read on gbodyforum.com that you can use the F-body upper insulator to adapt from pigtail to open end. I have 6319s in it now,, and i think there's a 3rd gen F-body spring that will drop it another inch. I just have to watch the rate, and not go too stiff.
I wanted to keep my car level since my driveway has a really steep quick entrance before the driveway. I used tall ball joints , same bars in the rear. Pinion is set to - 3 qa1 single adjustables in the back with stock 442 springs . The front just has Moog 6 cyl f85 springs and afco 80/20 shocks. Best 60 ft. Was 1.58 with the 350. Car weighs in around 3350 with me in it.
Mark what would a good 60 foot time look like 3750 LB 11.50 ET manual transmission?
3750 LB 12.00 ET manual transmission?
Do automatic cars 60 foot better?
I haven't seen stick full weight small tire cars 60 with a automatic, but if the car works, the stick car will make up time between the 330 and 660 usually out MPH the automatic car. I have seen a 1.48 60 with a footbrake automatic NA 3800 pound C-10 truck running 12.00 on a 9 inch slick with not much HP.
Last edited by VORTECPRO; Oct 13, 2020 at 06:30 AM.
That's kind of a loaded question, Bernhard. Unless the whole setup is really dialed in, the manual car has many more variables, but can leave as hard as a trans brake auto.
I'm learning a lot this year. Unfortunately, I have to keep reminding myself that it's just a hobby and to not go off the deep end. I'm glad Drag Week was canceled. I would have had a bad time. There's not much track time left at my local track, so most will wait until spring.
Duh, my springs are pigtails on both ends. I read on gbodyforum.com that you can use the F-body upper insulator to adapt from pigtail to open end. I have 6319s in it now,, and i think there's a 3rd gen F-body spring that will drop it another inch. I just have to watch the rate, and not go too stiff.
Bernhard wrote:
This is one of the class racers go to shops, you might want to check them out. https://www.santhuffshocks.com/
I say have fun with the car and keep tuning till you reach your goal.
Bernhard wrote:
This is one of the class racers go to shops, you might want to check them out. https://www.santhuffshocks.com/
I say have fun with the car and keep tuning till you reach your goal.
Notice almost zero separation, Santhuff shocks allow this, 1.20s 60 foot, no wheelie bars.
Last edited by VORTECPRO; Oct 13, 2020 at 07:30 AM.
As far as 60ft goes. The best 60ft is a consistent 60ft. Depends on the total set up. I didn't know about the F body trick, I'll look into that. With a 1.2 60 you don't need much separation. The car has enough power to rotate and get the weight transfer. Take a look at a PS car, they have enough power to compress the rear. Cars with less HP can't do that. Add in a 4 speed and it is worse. Personally I would move to a true bias slick. This will help dampen the shock, pluss they will recover better. If you do make sure to get the compound for the manual trans if available in your size.
I was playing around with the Moog chart, and found that the Jeep TJ spring, 3227/3229 looks like it will drop an inch and maintain enough ID for the airbags. They are expensive, though.
The F-body isolators are discontinued and only fit a 5" ID.
