olds 307 and 403

I see the first Test n Tune is May 20th, a Sunday. I plan on checking over and tuning the 70S this weekend. I plan on speeding up the advance curve, doing a compression test etc. The lame converter is the biggest hurdle, I will be running slicks. I plan on coming up hard against the converter and plugging the vacuum advance along with bumping the idle. My goal is a 9.6 in the 1/8, with the 2004R and 2300 stall, that would have been a cake walk, my Daughter killed it the day before the last test n tune. Thoughts?

TripDeuces

No need to disconnect the vacuum advance, it won't be working at WOT.
Don't 'power brake' it, let the suspension do it's job. Especially if you're using some type of traction devices.
Let the converter flash, they usually stall higher that way.
More initial timing can't hurt but you'll need to take out some advance timing to maintain the total timing number. Drag cars don't like a lot of total timing and your cam is somewhat small so it will pump up cylinder pressure a lot. Put good fuel in it.

Kennybill

9.6 = 14.98 quarter mile

olds 307 and 403

Yes, 91 premium, always non ethanol. I have a positive stop on the advance mechanism.

Gascoop

I new here but here's a headsup if you're thinking about a new converter. Long story but there's a guy in Texas, Michael that is the owner, fabricator and cleans up the place at closing time. The name of the shop is Freakshow and this guy builds an amazing TC for cheap..... like $325. He is highly recommened by a lot of street/strip guys. Anyway, I'll shut up and if you google Freakshow Torque Converters you'll see what I mean......Dave

olds 307 and 403

Cool, thanks Dave, I will contact them. I find 36 total timing is best for the track. I was 9.4 in the 1/8 with my 88 CSC. Just hoping to squeak out equal to high 14's. The car is definitely running better, I will try another turn richer on the APT and I will weigh at the scale on the way.

coppercutlass

leave a couple hundred rpm off idle. Don't launch off of the converter. Put some cut outs in usually worth 2 tenths.

I'm going to be in the same boat. IM sticking in a stockish 350 in my 72 just for the summer while I make upgrades for the new 355. the engine that powered my 72 to 12.2's was sold. If I can run in the 13's it should be fun.

olds 307 and 403

I usually just push it a bit over a 1000 RPM at launch. The car feels a lot better since adjusting the carb, next will be the timing. I really think the suspension is better on the 70 vs the 88 plus I don't have to worry about the Type O 8.5" rear flying apart like the flimsy 7.5".

TripDeuces

No-Hop bars work exception on those cars along with air bags.

olds 307 and 403

I will swap in the HEI that is currently in my Olds 260 into my 350. It has the fastest advance curve I have ever seen in a factory HEI, all in by 2500 RPM. I will add a positive stop for the mechanical advance and put the crane 20 degree vacuum advance can on it. I will try the Chinese HEI with the Ignitor 3 module in the 260, I think the timing was over advanced on it, I will see what curve is in it as well an report how it runs.

olds 307 and 403

New distributor is in, all by 2800 RPM for sure, better than 3200 RPM. I may have gotten over zealous with tightening the rocker arms and may have damaged something. It would explain the loss in power and it actually stalled going around the block and popped a couple of times then finally started. I will pull the passenger side valve cover, betting a bent pushrod, I hate adjustable valves.

olds 307 and 403

No bent pushrod but one rocker was loose, maybe I didn't tighten the poly lock? Going fishing now, more rewarding.

olds 307 and 403

Actually 3 loose rockers, maybe my poly locks suck. Also the big connection came undone at the brake booster so a big vacuum leak. I think hear a tick again but there is a small crack at the header tube, so that may be the sound.