Krooser - Thanks for the offer on the blower core. But since I'm a rookie at this, I'll purchase the blower, drive, carbs, and all from the same vendor. This way I have a better chance of good support.

I appreciate the tip on Ross and Venolia. I've already left a msg for Ross. I'll contact Venolia and see what they have to say about pistons.

I've contacted John at Rocket Performance about my project. He asked some questions. Once I get his input, I'll share what he had to say.

He has the rods, (Thanks to cutlassefi) and can get pistons made for my project.

I know they probably don't exists, but... If anyone has a olds second hand main girdle for sale, let me know about it. - Mike

 

Ask John@RR - he could have a used one, and makes his own - the more you get from him, the cheaper he goes!

 

Thanks! I look forward to visiting with John when he is available. - Mike

 

After you do a little more research you'll see this isn't that complicated. BTW Dean Blowers can sell you the whole set-up ready to bolt on... and save you a few thousand dollars I would imagine.

http://www.deanblowers.com

 

Just got new information.

I've traded a few emails with John at Rocket Performance. In a nut shell, I've given him what I wanted to build... Using the F1 455 block, 425 Crank, his H beam 7" rods, Forged 8 or 8.5:1 pistons, and limiting RPM to 6,000 or so. I asked about girdles. Halo or full. Below is Johns response.

Hello Mike,

I also take it you will be running pump gas? If its going on the street and mostly show, a halo style girdle would be fine. Provided hp stays around 650. When you start going around 675 and up, for extreme drag use, then a girdle would be recommended and or at least new caps. Is there a number and time you can be reached?

Thank you,
John

After I visit with John, I'll share what we come up with. What I'm thinking now is my stated config with what John recommends for caps and halo. Plus... I know this is against most gear head thoughts (but I'm getting old)... This project does not need 675HP. If I need to limit boost to keep it around 600 hp... that will be just fine. (I'm not use to the thought of... too much power). I'll still weight out the costs of the halo and caps -vs- full girdle and any caps or machining that goes with them, plus the modified pan.

Thanks you guys for turning me onto John. After Joe Mondello died and multiple bad experienses with Mondello in CA, I'm greatfull to find a new source. - Mike

 

I just scrolled through this thread and did not see any info on the rest of the combo. Use? Goals? Vehicle? Rear? I see that you want to use a switch pitch, not sure what they can handle.

600 HP is a LOT. As I stated before, the biggest benefit of blowers IMO is the massive low rpm torque. This is what makes a car fun to drive. If you are running slicks or drag radials and do not upgrade the drive train you will break stuff.

 

truck looks like a cool project

 

The use of this would be in an rotisserie restored 1971 442. The car would be 100% stock except for the engine, trans, rear suspension arms and bushings, and tire size. The rear axle would be a stock Olds 12 bolt posi from a 69 442. It will be enjoyed on the street and highway. The only flogging would be showing off on the county black top.

About the Trans... I have never been around a supercharger, other than walking by at car shows, let alone drive one. I live in a very rural area, and there are very few around. I purchased the switch pitch 400 25+ years ago because the trans has strong internals. Also, after owning a couple stall converters, I thought this could be s a "best of both worlds" idea. In this thread, there has been much said about the awesome torque of a supercharged engine, so the variable stall may very well not be required. If I do this, it would be with aftermarket switch pitch converter, assuming research indicated it would hold up. Otherwise, I'll come up with a non switch pitch 400. My son wants to 6 speed it. But it may be hard to find a 6 speed to deal with the torque it would produce.

Tires - the most tire it would ever have would be drag radials, and that is a maybe. The nearest drag strip is over 2.5 hours away. IF, is was to take it there, I would borrow a pair of drag radios from my son or friend for a couple passes and probably be the only time at a strip.

I'm wanting a good looking, "Fun To Drive" car you mention, not a 11 second or quicker car.

In trading emails with John, he asked about estimated power output. I have no idea what this modest boost level will produce (plus all the other variables). On Dyers web site they did state this.... It is common to acheive 1.5 HP per cube. At 15 lbs boost, 2 hp per cube. They did not state at what boost 1.5 HP was common. So, If one takes 430 cubes * 1.5, you get 645 HP. If one drops back to 1.25 HP per cube, it comes up to 538 HP.

I found in one of my recent Olds performance books, that the 1968-1976 non DX blocks, in general, are good to 650 HP. John mentioned 675. I'm sure I would be under these.

Also, I'm not going to launch this thing hard, or have increadbile traction to put the piles of torque stress on the engine

Please let me know if you think I'm overlooking anything. (other than being nuts for wanting to do this). - Mike

 

While thinking about transmissions, you might give some thought to a Gear Vendors overdrive. No compelling need for the switch pitch, so you eliminate that variable, and the GV od will handle pretty much any amount of torque you want to throw at it.

 

I figure my 354 Hemi is around 500 HP... I have the blower under driven 20% IIRC. About 8 lbs of boost. I can't imagine running a street driven car with 15 or even 12 lbs. of boost... you'd need an intercooler to keep temps under control.

Don't let anyone tell you teflon stripped rotors are needed either... strictly a race type deal.

 

Here is a nice one,maybe you could get in touch with him?

 

Thanks for the note. Your HP estimate seems consistent with the estimate of 1.25 hp/cube. My thinking of 6-9 lbs boost making 538 hp from 430 cubes would be close to your 8 lbs boost 354 cubes at 500 hp.

Glad to here your numbers because this would put my project well under under the 650-675 hp theoretical limit of a stock block per some Olds builders.

 

I am getting the wheels off the ground with 500 HP on slicks and leaving a 300 ft. patch of rubber FROM A 40 MPH PUNCH...

I don't think you know how much power you need for what you are doing. And the blower is overkill...although it will look cool.

 

Sounds like a nice running setup you have.

To summarize, my motives are this.... 1. To be able to leave the patch of rubber from a good roll (just like your car), do it without a big effect on drivability, 2. The look and sound of a blower, 3. Do this without spitting parts out the bottom.

My dad, son and I do extensive, nut and bolt restorations, I've showed in and won at Olds National events (stock classes).

This 1971 442 will be that caliber of car. A street supercharger is something I've wanted to do for many years. I'm 51 years old now and can now do this. In the mid 80's I purchased the 71 442 off of a river bank, with this in mind. I've stored it in side since purchasing it. At the time of purchase, bought may NOS parts, (dad managed the body shop for our olds dealer for 40+ years) grills, headlight buckets, nose, deck, all trim, etc. About the same time I found my F1 455 engine for the block, the 425 engine for the crank. Again, all this with the supercharger goal in mind.

I've built many stock and near stock olds motors, but nothing like this, especially with custom pistons since no forged low compression 425 pistons exists.

This will all be done in a way that if I want it back to a "stock" 71 442, in can be easily.

To finish up... I'm not building a drag car. Will never have slicks on it.
I want the look, sound, torque and drivability of a supercharger in a very nice 442 to enjoy at car shows, on the street and highway. Spin it 6,000 on occasion, run modest boost while having it stay together.

That is my goal.

Thanks to all for input. I welcome any other thoughts/opinons or experiences. -Mike

 

This blower intake just came up on Ebay-
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Offenhauser-...item53f6231046
Looks a little pricey to me @ $600, for what it is. The craftsmanhip looks a little questionable & I think the dual quad intake would have been a better starting point.

 

Wow that's bad. That's nothing but a 3/4 inch piece of plate aluminum glued and bolted to an Offy 360* intake. You can even see the spread bore plenum in there.

 

Thanks for the Note 67 cutlass. Yep - should be a dual 4.

Looking for a tunnel ram for big olds. Just the base. My Blower guy will cut it off as low as possible and weld a 1" aluminum plate to it. (assuming I don't find a maninfold ready to go first. There is a back one on ebay, but not wanting to remove the powder coat. Can get new from summit for $430

Thanks again guys!

 

I have a tunnel ram setup & personally I think the runners at the inlet to the base are too small and would restrict air flow. IMHO you'd still be better off starting with this-
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Offenhauser-...item53f5c39845
If you want, I can snap a couple of shots of the inlets so you can see what I mean. Have you considered milling a Victor down?
My junk-
113-1371_IMG.jpg
CIMG3035.jpg

 

I guess I don't understand. For what you are doing a single carb should work......don't see why a dual 4bbl intake is needed. Please enlighten me.

 

67 - If its handy sometime, please send a pic.

380 - Yes, a single carb would work, but my preference is for dual - here is why... Blower Drive Service, Hampton, Dyers, etc use Offy and edel low profile dual 4 intakes and they look better than a single 4. The company I'll be working with on the blower, has used tunnel rams in the past for engines that don't have true blower manifold available. He feels the look is better than all low profile dual 4's converted for blowers. I'm going to his shop in a couple of weeks to see some of his setups in person.

Thanks

 

Please take your camera and share some photos here. I'd love to see what they're building.

 

Here are a couple pic he emailed me. I not decided on manifold yet. Want to see them in person 1st. After seeing some, I'll decide on the tunnel ram conversion, or one like BDS Dyers, etc make.

 

Thanks for sharing the photos. I've always loved the look of a blower sticking outa the hood, but the cost factor and maintenance has always stopped me from having one. I could sell you my tunnel ram setup with the carbs but you're not going to like the price. It cost me over $600 to have the top modified-
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ram-setup.html

 

67-
Thanks for the interest and help.
Yeah - the look and sound is half of it.

I've attached a pic of what Hampton and other blower companies are making. I'm not excited about the look, but when one is odd and loves oldsmobile, AND no one make a "Blower" manifold, the options are limited. This is why I'm at least looking into the tunnel ram conversion option. After visiting my blower guy's shop, I'll talk local machinist about the possibility of making a blower intake out aluminum plate and machining. Since this is show ride, look is important. - Mike

 

Thanks for the offer on your intake and carbs. Blower carbs are re-calibrated to function properly for the application. I'm planning to purchase them from a blower retailer already prepped for the purpose.

Thanks again for the interest and help. - Mike

 

I would have to dig em out. I have a set of 400 pistons on 455 rods that came out of an engine I have. The pistons stopped approx 1/4" from the deck. This engine ran, as the guy I got the car from had spun the rod bearings. He said that someone had set it up low compression to run twin turbos, but never finished it up. He just ran it as a natural aspirated engine. I believe these are .030 pistons, would have to dig them out to be sure. Sounds like an awesome project you're getting into Love the look of blown cars. Would like the contact info for Rocket Perf. Need to do some shopping for 455 parts myself. I'm looking to tickle that 6-700 pony range.

 

WPE design 1st gear driven front mount for and oldsmobile application.
Customers DX SBO, F1X Procharger, 385ci, 10lbs. boost, should make 1400hp fairly easy, then turn up the wick.

 

Hi Mike
Just seen this today.
You may want to look at 1966 - 67 mags and find Lutz & Lundberg, 1966 442 (442Much)they were running a 425 with nitro. Also Tony Nancy ran a rail with a 425 on Nitro. And then there was the Hurst Hairy Olds. All 425's. They all had write ups on their engines.

Redirecting oil will help the bottom end stay together.

The F1 block crap is all it is. F1 meant that it was the box the sand casting was made. So the quality control knew when to pull that mold and replace it with a better more detailed buck.

If the F2 was loosing detail he would have had that one pulled.

I got that info from a gentleman that was a QC at the foundry. I met him in Lansing.

On another note I believe the early 400 and 425 had a better nickel content.

Mike
Columbus Nebraska