Just curious how much power a set of poly motor mounts can take vs running solid mounts!

 

For an Olds application?

I didn't think anybody made Olds poly motor mounts. If you found a source, please share.

Sorry I can't answer your question though.

 

I know a few here have fabricated their own solid mount for the drivers side. Then run a rubber on the other.

 

Use rubber mounts and run a bolt thru them

 

I use rubber mounts and two torque turnbuckles.
I can't believe they still don't make a poly mount for a olds.

 

They don't? Wtf!

 

I run a solid on the drivers side and a rubber on the passenger side on my '65. If you are looking to make big power like I think you are you should look into using a front and mid plate instead of motor mounts. This is what I'm using on the '69 I'm building.

 

No one makes a poly mount. If it's other than an all out race car with a cage I tell customers to use our steel mount on the drivers side and our rubber mount on the passenger side especially when running our headers with all the pipes inside the frame which creates a tight situation. The steel mount not only eliminates the need for any type of a turn buckle (or similar) but it also helps keep the headers from touching the frame.

 

Current setup is a solid mounted 502/Th-400 with transbrake. Going BBO with 550-600hp/Art Carr 200-4r then later on a NASCAR block, Batten Headed monster with an F2 Procharger. The car is caged(6pt) and a 9" rear.

 

I would use 2 steel mounts.

 

If I use solid mounts on my BBO would I run the risk of possibly breaking the block? What about 2 rubber mounts and a torque limiter? Also what do I run for trans mounts? I've heard so many different combos that I don't know what to run!

 

I am gonna run solid on driver side and rubber on passenger. But my engine doesn't have as much torque and the car is mainly street.

 

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[QUOTE=madmax442;809657]If I use solid mounts on my BBO would I run the risk of possibly breaking the block? What about 2 rubber mounts and a torque limiter? Also what do I run for trans mounts? I've heard so many different combos that I don't know what to run![/QUOTE




I already gave you my answer. If you don't agree that's fine but I am not changing my answer because you don't. I would use a poly trans mount. I would like to talk to someone that has broken their block. I never have and doubt anyone has. Every one has heard the tale but one knows of someone that has. I run 2 steel mounts in my Cutlass. You could also run 2 rubber mounts with a front plate but not necessary.

 

Sorry Mr Miller! I was not implying that you don't know what your saying. I meant to say I didn't want to have a failure in the number 4 main web area as described in Bill Travato's book. He stated " Olds experts agree that the most common failures occur at the number-4 man Web areas. I feel that the use of solid motor mounts, which are fastened to the block in that area, is the leading cause for failure. All of the engines torque and vehicle weight is transmitted in this motor mount area via two 7/16 inch diameter bolts". I'm not saying he's right or wrong but I was basing my question on that statement. I appologize that I wasn't clear in my previous statement. Have you ever seen failures in that area like Bill described? Thanks for replying and it's good to see your here on Classic Oldsmobile! I bought your book on how to hook my car at the track and I really like it! Thanks again

 

I don't know how Bill assembles his engines. I haven't had an engine come back in years for any reason including a 496 with a Pro Charger I did last summer making 983# torque. So many of these failures we hear about are blamed on this part or that part. When in fact it was that the engine builder never checked the things that should have been checked weather it was a part or someone's machine work. The engine builder is responsible for every part, every spec, and all machine work. Left unchecked leads to failures and of course the builder isn't to blame. He just assembled the parts, right? Oldsmobile engines are great strong engines if done right. Again, I'd like to talk to that person with the steel mount that broke the side of their engine block. Good luck, Dick


There's to much crap out there from people who thing they are experts. I hardly ever go onto ROP because of it. I was glad to hear about this site that does't have all the politics involved.

 

Your expertise and opinions are greatly appreciated. Thanks for being a part of our site.

 

+1 I really do value your opinion! Thanks again!

 

+1 for DM's input
Many folks avoid other sites due to the, uhm, perons that start trouble... trolls.

After the last Great Crash I was able to sign up again but rarely visit.

SO much nicer here.

Thanks for joining

For those who do not know Dick Miller, look it up. Renowned Olds expert and racing enthusiast.

 

Bullseye for Dick Miller! Glad you came over to this site Mr Miller.

 

I think there would be a decent market for a poly Olds engine mount set. Maybe available with 2 different durometer ratings on the bushes? One softer for street use and a stiffer version for higher HP track cars.

Something like this can't be that hard to design.

Not calling anybody out, I sure don't have the tools, talent, or time to do it. But a thought for one of our Olds vendors maybe.



Also sent a message to Energy Suspension and Prothane.

 

I have a friend that is a welder by trade and loves projects! I bet I could get him to make some of these! He's made lots of oval track chassis's in the past so I bet this would be a piece of cake for him!