I will take mine on rye with deli mustard and dill pickle. Please!

 

Cutlassefi, yes you did, back in post #349. There are people who only look back a couple of posts and think they have the complete picture.
.....Just my two cents worth.

 

Mark

You have put out all of the info needed right now. If I were you I wouldn't say another thing until they are ready. The naysayers have turned this into a cluster.

 

You’re right. I was going to address Mr pessimist’s post, aka greyhound, but I’ll leave that alone.
Thanks.

 

They come out when they come out..............................

 

YA, I know.

 

Many of us have become accustomed to the prime shipping mentality, i ordered it it should be here tomorrow lol. I think the news that were getting some new heads is great, i can wait. Of course i dont have an immediate project for new heads ( if i did have a pending project i would change my attitude some im sure) but w the news of new heads coming i can start to think about that.

as long as this doesnt turn into the 2018 bronco, not the bronco sport variant, the bronco....since maybe 2015 we’ve been teased w the new retro styled bronco, w renderings, feature films concepts, missed deadlines, options announcements, etc etc etc. now were sitting at a 2022 model year release....

 

Well I will be bolting a set on when there out

 

Agreed, buying a set when available. The might be available before the machine shop is done with my block🙁.

 

Dyno mule has been run. Hopefully next is the switch from the irons to the Edelbrock small block heads. Build specs are;
4.100 Mahle pistons
Molnar Rods
Crane Hyd roller, 222/228@.050, 555 lift
RPM intake, untouched
750 VS Brawler carb
#5 heads, 2.00/1.62 valves. Crossovers filled but dividers were not welded. Drilled for 7/16 studs, polished chambers cut to 65CC. 9.4:1 compression.
Run on 91 octane pump.

 

Interesting, can you tell us the timing curve please?

 

35* total.

 

It will be interesting to see how much timing the new heads will make the most power.

 

Stroke?

 

cutlassefi / Mark
Have you ever tested the small block stock cast iron intake to use as a base line?

 

Time is money. We all should put in a little money in. And vote for a combo. I would like to see DX or D block, with NEW BB Edelbrock and 7111 intake - both heavily ported,(It needs to fit under most hoods, at least mine) COMP Cams steel Ultra Pro Magnum Rocker, 4.155, stroke to the max, 10 TO 1 compression, good running Rochester carb(Not Mark's first choice, I am sure). Normal oil pan. I have DX oil filter adapter and earl's performance engine oil thermostat 501erl. And some 1/2'' steel tubing, fittings and a Ridged 1/2'' tubing bender. I would loan for the build. Run with and without a big shot of NOS. Lifters and cam his choice. Build it, test it and put it up for bid here and or eBay. Any thing over what Mark needs to get payed, goes to the next most voted build.

 

No I have not. Maybe some time in the future.
Here are the final results. Timing is at the better part of 37*. (My buddy used the wrong mark as tdc when setting the timing). Jets ended up being 74/83’s. Hope to do the head swap very soon but may have one or two I need to squeeze in before hand.
Thanks

 

cutlassefi / Mark
What's the bore and stroke on your test engine?

 

it’s been stated already. Thank you.

 

I like the torque curve, are you happy with the power it made?

 

Yes I am thank you. I did a very similar build to this a few years back that actually had a little better head on it and it made just shy of 2% more than this one on another Dyno. So pretty consistent I’d say.

 

Everything looks good.

Is there any chance of posting the:

Brake Specific Fuel Consumption
Fuel Flow
Volumetric Efficiency
Brake Mean Effective Pressure

Asking for a friend.

 

I ask because i dont know, when we see most dyno runs the numbers start at 3500ish rpms. Why is that? I understand to see the max power and torque, but i always wonder about the off idle to 3500 portion too. My reasoning is 90% of the time im just driving leasurely and might see 3500-4000. 10% of the time im in the 3500-5k+ area where it makes the most power and torque.

 

Some dyno's have trouble pulling the engine down at low RPM, its also hard on the engine to pull it down real low as well. I would note it is odd to me the TQ peak is so close to the HP peak, different than what I've seen in the past, or you could say it carries the TQ well?

 

I asked my machinist the same thing when I got my first dyno session. He said the dyno stand sways under 3,000 rpm and threatens to tip over, and the readings are trash. I bet OEMs have much more complicated setups, hence they can do full sweeps for their advertising.
The typical superflow also has to be set up for the power range being measured. Starting real low can put you out of the correct range for where the engine will end up, causing the numbers to be even less accurate.

 

I'll have something like this, eventually. Well, as close as you're likely to find without doing it yourself. D block, 4.185 bore, 4" stroke, Gen 2 (not Gen 3) ebrock heads with about as much can be done by a hobbyist - stock ebrock valves, but knocked out the guides to do plenty of cleanup and blending (last flow was 284/207@0.6", but that was before the valve job). RPM intake, qjet, Harland Sharp rockers, 235/241 cam with .578/.589 lift. Canton pan and morosso windage tray. No nitrous - keeping ring gaps tight.

 

I don’t want to get on a Dyno brake tangent here but I chose that rpm range because of past experience, and I believe the new head will excel in the higher ranges.
With that said the load valve on my Land N sea works differently than the SF stuff. As long as I have enough water pressure thru the brake I can pull it down to 2000rpms if I want to, stand is rock solid as well. But as mentioned it’s hard on parts. The brake that’s used on the SF 901 and 902 is an older design originally used by GM. They work fine but they heat the water way faster than the LnS does.

 

Thanks all thats good info and something i wondered about.

 

Dyno mule build thread https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...o-mule-150594/

Are you still dealing with https://www.molnartechnologies.com/ as a connecting rod supplier for your small block Olds rod?

 

Yes.

 

Thanks for the reply
Do they make a big block rod as well?

 

Not currently.

 

Is Edelbrock back to ramping up production now, with various products?

 

So the new heads will feature 1/2" head bolt holes? If so, how will they work on factory block 7/16" head bolt holes?

 

No the bolt holes will be as they are today, 7/16 with a counterbore so anyone can grab a 17/32 drill bit and accurately open them up. Did someone say they were going be 1/2” now?

 

it seems that way. I received an email from my customer service rep there a couple of days ago with updated timelines. Looks like they’re up and running again.

 

That's the rumor mill but that is why I asked. I figured they wouldn't go 1/2" as most guys run the 7/16"

 

You’re right that doesn’t make sense. Never ceases to amaze me how people that don’t have a clue make stupid statements like this.

 

Any pricing information on the new heads?

 

I believe it’s on their website, is it not?