Who(s) the go-to builders out this way. Home built 455 has give me trouble twice. I’m not looking to try it again. Would like to run 7.0-7.5 in the 1/8 for a 3300 pound ‘71 Cutlass (“3,000” rpm converter, 4.10 gear, TRZ rear suspension) and not have to mortgage the house.

 

7.0 in the 1/8th is a high 10 sec 1/4 car. Cheap won't get it

 

7.8 on junkyard crap. Before the 4.10s.

I’m willing to put 100 shot on it and lighten it some more. 7.0 is probably a stretch. I get it.

 

I realize is not super close, but Aaron Shipley is in Maryland/Northern Virginia. He is a VERY good Oldsmobile builder.
Builds quite a few race engines for some very cool cars.

 

Aaron can make you some power. Maybe a little closer, is that Danny Lattimore (VA) guy still around? I've heard nothing but good about him. Otherwise, you're going south to Mark or Dan.
No matter what you do, I don't see it being cheap. I saw you were considering an LS, too. Don't be fooled, Speed costs money no matter how you slice it, unless you're just THAT guy. THAT guy already knows. 🤣

 

I don’t want to come off as cheap. Maybe spending my money wisely would be a better term?

I don’t really want to do an LS, but I have a 5.3 hanging out here. I just want a decent, reliable bracket car. Would prefer to do it with the BBO. Weighing options at the moment. I’ve had the car about 25 years. Just trying to have fun with it.

 

Danny Lattimore has retired. I got his last big hp olds engine for my drag car with a twin backup. Shipley is a good choice. Will not be cheap.

 

Pm me if you like. We can discuss it further.

 

If you're bracket racing, especially for points, I wouldn't go either route. LS are (used to be) plentiful and cheap, but your dial will change every time you slap a new one in. @coppercutlass bracket races an Olds 350, but builds his own engines. You want reliable with parts availability. Neither of these engines are both, in my opinion.
I never really got into bracket. I'm going to assume you want to do some index racing with the 7.0 parameter. Keep in mind- index cars are WAY faster than the class they're running in. You don't want to be wringing it out on every pass to hit the number. The car should do it easily with plenty left for a womp at the stripe if you need it.

 

I would say that my car isn’t very consistent either.
Im usually holding a few #’s and play the stripe. You just have to know you either nailed the tree or blew it.

When I race street or sportsman the lowest dial is 11.50. That’s means I’m holding close to a second!
Now that’s partying!

 

No there is a Wolf in a sheep's coat

 

Hell I have a 455 you can buy and hear run that’ll easily run what you need. Pm me if interested

 

Thanks for the tag Flemming. So. Here is my take. The 350 olds is pretty reliable. We have had 2 issues in almost 20 years. One being knocking the skirts out of some cast pistons and 2 last summer when a wrist pin walked out but I'm spinning my 350 to 7k rpm on stock rods and crank. Car usually is good for 11.50's with either engine the J headed 355 or the #6 355. Just fwiw. I build my stuff so I'm always willing to take the risk. We haven't had too many failures with the little 350's and we also haven't spent a lot making them fast and live.

 

Gawt dang. What are you using for an oil system? Or is that 7,000rpm fine for the short stints on the track? I remember you had 390s in it for a while maybe? Singing at 3,500 on the short interstate ride to Chicagoland? ha.

 

The car had 4.30's now 4.56 . The oil system with just a HV pump is fine for the drag strip. If I had more extended RPM I'd worry a about capacity and control. But virtually it's just a basic deep sump oil pan and HV pump

 

I figure you need 500 hp to reach your goal. What combination do you have now and how fast has it been ? Will the car hook good enough to go that fast ?