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I have noticed that most EXTERNALLY mounted electric fuel pumps are loud, tend to run hot, they don't like to be run in hot weather (psi drops), etc. They tend to burn out ever few years and need to be rebuilt. Even the $500 Holley external high psi fuel pump has a warning that it shouldn't be used when outside temps are above 90F. Which is lame for a $500 pump.
All new vehicles use in-tank pumps which run cooler due to them sitting in fuel which cools them down.
Anyone here run the Holley Sniper in-tank high pressure (60psi) fuel pump?
If not, what is another good in-tank electric FI fuel pump?
You can buy a Spectra fuel injection tank (Rockauto usually has them cheapest) - for a '70, the model is GM34RFI. Last time I saw one of the Spectra tanks they had a welded in sump/pan to limit fuel slosh. I would chuck whatever fuel pump the Spectra tank comes with, and install an Aeromotive pump and Aeromotive regulator (they make one to turn down from fuel injection pressure to carb pressure).
If interested in the Aeromotive 340 pump , I have one Brand new in the Box that I was going to use to change over to fuel injection and have changed plans, thanks Tim
Running a return line back to the tank greatly increases the longetivity of the electric pumps according to Cliff Ruggles. He said since he ran a return he hasn't had a failure.
I am running the Areomotive stealth tank.
All good however under heavy load (11 sec 1/4 ) it will starve for fuel under 1/2 tank.
I chased this fuel issue for a couple years. Now I run 3/4 to full tank with no issues other than weight.
I am running the Areomotive stealth tank.
All good however under heavy load (11 sec 1/4 ) it will starve for fuel under 1/2 tank.
I chased this fuel issue for a couple years. Now I run 3/4 to full tank with no issues other than weight.
I had the same problem with my Stealth tank. Replaced tank with the newer version (“clipped” corners) & it eliminated the issue, feeds reliably down to a very low fuel level & no starvation up steep hills or WOT.
On one of my other cars I’m having issues with tanks EFI tank, on Cutlass I have aeromotive stealth 2 tank with 340 pump.
Pump is surrounded with foam and wrapped in a bladder, mounted in the middle of the tank. I’ve ran the car with 3 gallons in the tank and had no issues with starvation.
This setup is also extremely quiet.
Last edited by 70cutty; September 14th, 2020 at 03:25 PM.
I just installed the Holley RetroFit 12-133 in tank pump a few weeks ago for the same reason. It’s doing ok so far. It’s a little noisier than I thought it would be. Sometimes it’s fairly quiet and sometimes it’s not. Idk what’s up with that.
Pettrix, after a ton of research, I found that these shallow tanks really make it a challenge to have an effective sump and in-tank pump.
I like the Aeromotive tank setup the most, if we would have went that route.
I would have swapped in the TI Hellcat fuel pump if we went with the Aeromotive tank, but, we really didn't want to spend $850+ on the fuel tank setup when I already had bought other pumps several years ago.
We went a much more complicated setup with a surge tank, twin Bosch 044's and twin Facet lift pumps, all to cover very high HP for future possibilities but with reliability and redundancy built in.
I know most people don't need this for a typical fun, hot rod/street car
What HP level and what fuel types do you expect to encounter? 500HP? E85? Boost or Nitrous?
If you get a pump that isn't flex-fuel capable, they tend to have shorter lives if ran with E85, but, they can work for a few hundred hours (usually). If you plan to make much power on E85, the 340lph pump won't cover the high volume requirement that E85 pushes (30% more fuel volume than gasoline).
I did it the Hard Way - welded a lowered pad onto the top of the tank so I could install an F350 fuel pump in the tank - it has the pump in a bucket with a separate head connected by hoses. That was a while ago, before the Phantom stuff was released and all the current options.
The main difference between the options is the baffling and bucketing of the pump. As noted, the early designs where they just put a little 1" tall tray around the bottom of the pump was hilariously insufficient. The better stuff, like the Phantom design, pretty much eliminate the starvation problem. It can be tough to get good details on the internal design of the tanks though.
Regardless, you want something that will pull gas into a container with the pump, keep it there, and return into that container. That will let you run the tank nearly dry.
On one of my other cars I’m having issues with tanks EFI tank, on Cutlass I have aeromotive stealth 2 tank with 340 pump.
Pump is surrounded with foam and wrapped in a bladder, mounted in the middle of the tank. I’ve ran the car with 3 gallons in the tank and had no issues with starvation.
This setup is also extremely quiet.
Looks like a great engineered design. I HATE the stock tanks. Every time you stop, make a turn, take a corner, the fuel sloshes and the gas gauge moves and the pressure drops for a split second and then comes back.
Looks like a great engineered design. I HATE the stock tanks. Every time you stop, make a turn, take a corner, the fuel sloshes and the gas gauge moves and the pressure drops for a split second and then comes back.
The HydraMat was designed to deal with pick up issues.
Ok, Pettrix, here is the talk... You own a car that is no longer stock that you are asking higher performance of and even converting to Fuel injection (I think, or you just want an electric pump to feed a carb that needs more than a stock mechanical pump can handle). Can you clarify your use (carb or EFI, HP goal, street, or street/strip)?
You must pick two of the following three choices about your part and accept that the third description will be what the combination won't be:
CHEAP
RELIABLE
FAST
If Cheap and Reliable, it won't be fast; if Fast and Reliable, it won't be Cheap; and if it is Fast and Cheap, it won't be Reliable.
You cannot successfully install an in-tank fuel pump into a stock tank unless it has a "bucket" around it for a baffle system or you run a Holley Hydramat, which I would still recommend some type of baffle to be ran with it(also, Hydromats are big $$$).
If you hang a pump into the stock tank without it having a very nice baffle in it, it will always be aerating the fuel because fuel will slosh with anything less than 1/2 tank; this sucks air into the system and showing a big stumble on a fuel injection setup and possibly a hiccup on a carburetor when going around a corner, stopping, or going quickly.
No hiccup on a carburetor when going around a corner, stopping, or going quickly.
For my 1987 Cutlass with a 1970 SB with Pro comp heads from Mondello Jr. Fuel Injection pump will over-come the floats in a carburetor. I just pull out my tank, pulled fuel gauge sending unit. Easily mounted a Delco low pressure pump to the fuel pickup. Came with small mat to suck up the gas. The low pressure Delco pump pressure was still to high for Carburetor.
Added a Fuel Pressure Regulator. Also have a 3 outlet fuel filter. The 3th outlet returns to the tank.
To stop vapor lock, I use two different ways. Drill tiny hole in gas cap. Not good if filled tank and you step on it. The other way I use most, is a small gas check valve where the Emission Charcoal Fuel Vapor Canister would be. Not good on a hot day to fill up.
Not really happy with either way. I think I need to put in Emission Charcoal Fuel Vapor Canister with all the part needed to work. You guys with the older car had a vent high up at the fuel tank.
Last edited by HighwayStar 442; September 15th, 2020 at 11:10 PM.
Those itsy-bitsy mats are insufficient for fuel injection cars. Fine for carb as the carb acts as a, well, fuel bowl.
Using a cheap(er) pump plus a large hydramat *should* work.
Those itsy-bitsy mats are insufficient for fuel injection cars. Fine for carb as the carb acts as a, well, fuel bowl.
Using a cheap(er) pump plus a large hydramat *should* work.
I am running a 2" x 10" holley hydromat at the bottom of my vista cruiser tank with an external pump and corvette type filter/regulator. I did not want an in-tank pump. (if you ever had to pull a 68-72 vista tank you know why). I went to this setup when I installed my LS1. With the stock pick-up supplying fuel to the original olds 350, every time I took a hard corner below 1/2 tank the car would stumble. With the hydromat, I can run the car as hard as i want around a corner down below an 1/8 tank with no starvation. Car pulls to 6K RPM with 60 psi at the fuel rail. As said above, the hydromat was not cheap. I think my small mat was close to $200, but it works awesome!
If you hang a pump into the stock tank without it having a very nice baffle in it, it will always be aerating the fuel because fuel will slosh with anything less than 1/2 tank; this sucks air into the system and showing a big stumble on a fuel injection setup and possibly a hiccup on a carburetor when going around a corner, stopping, or going quickly.
I decided on the Aeromotive tank system which has the bladder/baffle system. An Aeromotive 340 EFI pump with a pressure regulator and return line. For the price, it's the best bang for buck out there. You can run it on a carb or EFI setup and good for 800HP.
I decided on the Aeromotive tank system which has the bladder/baffle system. An Aeromotive 340 EFI pump with a pressure regulator and return line. For the price, it's the best bang for buck out there. You can run it on a carb or EFI setup and good for 800HP.
I decided on the Aeromotive tank system which has the bladder/baffle system. An Aeromotive 340 EFI pump with a pressure regulator and return line. For the price, it's the best bang for buck out there. You can run it on a carb or EFI setup and good for 800HP.
You won't regret it. Check out the wiring harness that Aeromotive offers. AEI-16307
It's pricey but it made wiring simple and easy.
I am running a 2" x 10" holley hydromat at the bottom of my vista cruiser tank with an external pump and corvette type filter/regulator. I did not want an in-tank pump. (if you ever had to pull a 68-72 vista tank you know why). I went to this setup when I installed my LS1. With the stock pick-up supplying fuel to the original olds 350, every time I took a hard corner below 1/2 tank the car would stumble. With the hydromat, I can run the car as hard as i want around a corner down below an 1/8 tank with no starvation. Car pulls to 6K RPM with 60 psi at the fuel rail. As said above, the hydromat was not cheap. I think my small mat was close to $200, but it works awesome!
Bernhard wrote:
Thanks for the feedback.
Was it hard to get the mat in the tank?
Did you need magnetic hold downs?
Last edited by Bernhard; September 16th, 2020 at 09:24 PM.
The mat went into the tank easily. I did use the magnetic hold downs. The hardest pa
Originally Posted by Bernhard
Bernhard wrote:
Thanks for the feedback.
Was it hard to get the mat in the tank?
Did you need magnetic hold downs?
The mat went into the tank easily. I did use the magnetic hold downs. The hardest part was probably getting the AN bulkhead fittings tight using only the sending unit opening for the wrench to go through.
On one of my other cars I’m having issues with tanks EFI tank, on Cutlass I have aeromotive stealth 2 tank with 340 pump.
Pump is surrounded with foam and wrapped in a bladder, mounted in the middle of the tank. I’ve ran the car with 3 gallons in the tank and had no issues with starvation.
This setup is also extremely quiet.
Where does the WIRING connect to the internal pump? I don't see any wiring connection points. Where do they come in at?
September 14th, 2020 | 11:25 AM
