Mine are Evo's.



Agreed, we don't know anything about that engine and how it was assembled or how hard it was ran.

 

Hopefully they are fine. Do short oil changes during break in, less crap that can stick lifters, the better.

 

Noisy. I am going to try adjusting to 0.040" lash using your technique.

 

yes…and they weren’t Evo’s. so that one failure you mentioned wasn’t an Evo failure.

a whole set of lifters just don’t explode all at once one day.

 

let us know how you make out. If you can, post a video of them now…..and after so we can hear what noise they make. now that they’ve been in the engine and run, you’ll need to back off the adjuster all the way to allow clearance so they can pump up fully so you know the lifter is at max travel…don’t run it to do that,, pull the coil wire and crank it over a few times so you get oil pressure. do that on each cyl, then do the .040” past zero lash on all one at a time. Let it sit over night so you know they have bled down.



we should also remember…”noise” to someone isn’t noise to someone else.

most performance camshaft these days have pretty aggressive ramps. you aren’t going to have dead silent factory sounding valve train ..when I use hydraulic flat tappets with some of the Comp aggressive ramp profiles..you definitely can hear the valve train. it’s not bad or anything wrong, it’s doing what it’s suppose to do. Opening and closing the valves as fast as possible

they don’t eat up cam and lifters or need any further adjustment.

 

Ahhhhh, winter on an Oldsmobile forum..... it's always so entertaining. Once again, the best engine builder in the world is singing the praises of his superiority. Go Dale! Go Dale! Go Dale!

 

Believe it or not, since I am going to be running these expensive little bastards, I wanted to see what issues people have seen. I expect some noise with a hydraulic roller ramps. Here is my cam card. I have 1.65 HS rocker arms, his red ones from Mark. I also have 1.72 Scorpion SBF 3/8" stud rocker arms. I do have 3/8" to 7/16" conversion studs.

 

arguably the universe….<<<<<that’ll have the Karen’s here lighting their hair on fire.

did your buddy with the Pontiac figure out what caused his problem and what did he end up going with ?

 

He put Johnsons in, i believe.
I don't know what causes link bars to fail, other than a crap design or poor manufacturing practices.

 

that was an odd failure

 

Well, I finally be installing these shortly, forgot what a trash can fire this thread was. I hate adjustable valve trains and it looks like it will be a nice PIA to install these. At least if I do, it right, don't have to touch them ever again. Still need the updated C clips and planning VR1 10W30 Synthetic with these hydraulic roller lifters and cam.

 

I want to thank you for the above words. My engine is quiet idling but when I drive it, I hear some valve train noise. For a couple of years I have thought something was wrong to the pointing of cutting open the oil filter to check for metal from the cam. The car runs great but driving down the street it’s noisy. I’m glad to hear it’s normal with the cam I have. Thanks!

 

you’re welcome. I hope others here learn from this. I’ve also used a few sets of these in builds since this thread started and the Morels from Howard’s…all are working as they should.

I do disassemble every lifter and wash the internals without mixing up the internals or the body..all parts stay as they came.

 

Yeah, I have to change C clips anyways. What do you clean them with Dale?

 

Using Acetone to clean them.

 

Got an email back from Comp. Gave me a part number, 85000C-16. Apparently, I have to call to get these, will do that tomorrow.

 

You can get the improved clips from McMaster-Carr. Part number 90442A203, $25 shipped for a pack of 50. I haven't installed them yet but they are supposed to be the right ones.

 

Sorry I missed this. I use use spray brake clean, then a lite spray of WD40 and blow parts off, reassemble, check that all plunger depression feels the same.

put assembly lube only on the wheel/bearings and install. roll engine over and set preload with dial indicator at the pushrod side of rocker , at TDC firing, count turns to get what I want on int and ex for pre load…then set the others the same.

prime oil pump and roll engine over..with a dial indicator on valve spring retainer to check lift.

I also do a crank compression test at this point, on the stand before intake goes on. I shoot for less than 3 or 4 psi difference. which I get…sometimes they are within 1 or 2 … I’ll get 75 to 80% of max psi with one pump.

 

Sounds good, I should order some assembly lube for this cam and lifters. I will be installing and degreeing the cam to be ready for the new heads, when they arrive.

 

Received these yesterday, cost nearly $40 Canadian to get them here, came pretty quick. I will be pulling the Evo's apart and cleaning them today.

 

Well got the new C Clips installed. The old ones are less springy, softer metal, could actually bend them enough to carefully pry them out. The new ones are much harder and more springy. Also normal snap pliers are way to big. I had to modify one of my pliers with a grinder to work. Had a couple fly out, all in place. I cleaned them after removing the old clips then resubmerged them in Acetone after installing the new clips. Definitely some crap in them, turned light brown, changed it half way and there was sediment on the bottom of the yogurt container.

 

Wow,
Was that just postage ? Comp did not charge me anything when they sent them to me. They even paid the UPS shipping.

 

They charged me $15 US, rest would have been shipping on top of that.

 

Howard’s just posted this on Facebook. just about every lifter they get back for noise complaints,had crap in it .
Howards are Morels . But like I’ve always said, every lifter should be taken apart and cleaned….no matter what brand.

 

Yeah, quite a bit of crud came out of my lifters.