Hi all, this is my first post on the site. I have a 67 F85, and currently it has a sbc 350 in it. While I will be having the body worked on first, I would like in a few years to get a proper Olds engine put into it. I'm thinking in the ballpark of 350-455 ci, 9.0/1 compression (our gas sucks, 89 is the highest octane to be found). I was wondering if anyone knew of a reputable builder in or near Kentucky? As well as any pick and pulls that may have a core (most seem to only have 90s to current cars near here). I have seen previous suggestions about Cutlassefi, BTR, and Rocket Racing. But I wanted to see if there was anything local first, or if I would have to suck it up. Thank you for any help, and sorry for the rambling!

Oh, and to edit in, I am not looking to do any big numbers. 400 tq for the 350, roughly 500 for the 455 end of the size bracket. And roughly 320-360 hp. Iron heads, that type of build.

 

Welcome,
Do the trans rear and suspension and brakes before making it pretty. If you can't stop or blow the rear end it will no longer look pretty and will put your life at risk.
I think it looks nice now. IMO get it mechanically sound first before adding the extra power. BTR is top-notch dig deep. Bill builds big power engines.
Is that N or U paint code on it?

 

I actually already have the brakes converted to front discs. And I'll be swapping it over to UMI suspension when I have the underside gone over (will be at the same time as having the body dealt with). It does currently have a semi-built th350 that came from a 70 Buick, but I will probably get a FB performance unit regardless. And I am already looking at a Mark Williams 12 bolt rear for it. And thanks! It does have some definite rust though, particularly in the window seal area. But the paint is non original, done by the previous owner. It is actually a saffron yellow factory code car.

 

Actually, to get what was done listed now

Upgraded to front discs
Rebuilt rear drums
new shocks/struts
Installed Rebuilt/built up th350
3.55 posi with new axles 8.2 BOP
new gas tank and line
New u joints
Front shoulder belts (compromise with my mom when I got it to daily in high school.)
New steering box

Will be doing
Having the underside checked for rust/cracking
after any repair, new undercoat
*edit - And new body bushings
Full new UMI suspension
New steering Linkage
Rust repair / new paint
upgrade front discs to Wilwood Lowprofile conversion
FB TH400
Mark Williams 12 bolt rear
Wilwood lowprofile rear conversion
new driveshaft

And of course the Olds motor, which will be installed with the new drive train components

 

Looks like you’re addressing virtually everything. Good for you.
I have cores by the way. I would think most builders like me would anyway.
Best of luck in your project..

 

Thank you! And it's a huge weight off my shoulders hearing that. And also, greetings as someone who originally hails from Florida! (Kissimmee)

 

Cutlassefi is a good choice. Dick Miller Racing is in Kentucky and a known Olds V8 builder. Stay away from any old machine shop especially if you decide on a 455.

 

I'm getting a good list going now because of the people on this site, thank you. And yeah, I was worried about non specific machine shops because I had seen somewhere that there's a specific jig or something that is recommended for cleaning up the decks and cylinders that not all shops have or know about.

 

Don't undercoat it with tar. Tar belongs on your driveway not on the chassis & floorboards. Tar holds moisture...ask how I know. And it's zero fun to remove if needed.
Krown, Corrosion Free, LPS 2 or other liquid spray-on rust retardant creeping oils are best if you don't care how it looks. Krown, LPS are what you want to put in the door seams and inner wheel wells and similar hidden areas.

Clean prime and paint the underside if you are going for pretty.

Here is my 2011 F250 with almost 100K on the odo just after its annual Krown treatment, it's driven in salt...Only downside is it is slimy and the rubber things tend to swell. But it's sauced hard per my request. It can be applied carefully to not be a huge mess, especially in the areas you can't see like floor/trunk braces inner frame & sheet metal structures etc.

This truck would be a rot box if I did nothing. Its still in beautiful shape.

 

They’re from BHJ, and I can count on one hand how many shops in the country have them for an Olds.
You can go to their website to see what I’m talking about. I believe it’s BHJproducts.com.
I purchased my own years ago.

 

Huh, that Krown is an interesting prospect. Especially since I'm not going for concourse, but instead a very solid cruiser build, and one that doesn't make you cringe at the sound of grit hitting the underside. Though salty roads still would be a no go.
And that is one of many reasons why you're on my top list for who I will eventually go to for an engine, Cutlassefi.

 

Welcome and nice car with a lot of good parts and a good plan to start.

In saying that……I am unsure of your goals with it.


Are you looking for street/strip?

Your 8.2 upgraded rear will hold your power level goals unless you constantly hammer it with slicks on the strip.

Speaking of power…. Why so little in your goal?

What is your budget for the engine?

 

Thanks! And it's a major lean towards street, just with performance capability. Something durable, and can have the gas stepped on, and serve mainly as good cruiser. Think of the old stoplight warriors type deal. And ultimately, with long term reliability in mind for the drive train as a cohesive unit, I am aiming for more in line with the power outputs of the 442s of the late 60s to 72 as the higher end goals.

 

It is also why I have no issue going with sizes smaller than the 455, whether it ranges from the 350 (much like the awesome Rallye model), to the 425
in fact, if I go the 350 route in the style of the Rallye 350, I will retain using a th350 much like that model

 

Thanks for the great explanation.

Being that I have a big block in a 67 Cutlass with a 400 trans….

my take is…. The narrower frame rails on the pre-68 Cutlass makes it very tough to fit a big block with headers. The floor pan and trans tunnel is also smaller than a later Cutlass, making the install of a 400 trans tough without mods to the hump and tunnel.


I would look into a 403 or a 350 DX Block build to keep it a small block platform for easier fitment and cooling, as well as keeping the 350 trans.

The 350DX (Diesel block) makes the strongest possible small block basis for holding tons of power in the future, if you plan to supercharge, turbo, or use nitrous at some point. You can use a trimmed down 425 crank to make a stroker small block out of it in the 420 to 440 c.i. Range.

The 403 has the most potential for naturally aspirated power because of it’s large bore size, but the block is relatively weak and it can’t take much power adder or compression.

Either of these small blocks can easily push over 400+ ft lbs of torque and will be a lot of fun.

I would also recommend moving to new aluminum heads over iron heads that you will have to spend a bunch of money on to just have rebuilt with new Valves, etc.

 

I was a bit concerned about fitment, and you did just confirm it there. I guess that is part of why I am such a fan of the 70 rallye, using the performance 350, and being able to use the th350. It would also let me continue using the same radiator (I believe it is a 3 core, definitely aluminum). My big hang up with the aluminum heads is that my understanding is that a head gasket leak is inevitable, no matter how good the build simply due to the different metals. Which was why I was considering trying to stay with iron, since longevity is a core component of my build

 

Simply not true. There are literally millions of aluminum headed, iron block engines roaming the streets of the world as we speak.
In addition, 90% of what I build are aluminum head/iron block builds. 0 issues, 0.

 

Pick a builder, state your goals and budget, then see if it can work. I’m feelin one of Mark’s stroker kits in a small block w/ aluminum heads might be to your liking.

To the gallery - Is there more room for headers on SBO In that era chassis? That’s what my 2 cents is based on.

​​​​​​….

 

Yep, if I had it to do all over again, I probably would have built a stroker 350DX block with the special iron heads and my power goals that I have.

Your cooling system should be good to go on any small block build, that is good.

As for heads, you shouldn’t have any issue running aluminum heads with the proper surface finish on the block and heads if you run MLS (multi-layer-steel) head gaskets. I like Cometic gaskets personally as they have lots of different bore sizes available and lots of different thicknesses as well to set your ideal quench depth for best power and minimal detonation. I use copper spray gasket sealer on the gaskets as insurance, but I haven’t seen them leak either way.

At least upgrade to ARP head bolts as well, if not head studs.

 

The general consensus does seem to lean heavily in favor of the aluminum heads, so I suppose that does seem to he a good direction to head in, those paired with the 350 block as I do know the underside is already tight as it is. I will have some time still as I need to get the foundation of the car to where I want first. Thank you all for the good advice you have had on this!

 

Keep us in the loop. You can add the info to a build page and let us know what you decide.

Always good to see another car saved!