I was allowing for a few extras like milling, a bit of clean-up porting ( guys who don't live in the real world think that all these "bolt-on" parts are actually good to go out of the box), rockers, etc.

 

Good one!! LOL

 

My position is im stuck with the iron heads because they came out way after i did my iron heads. Kinda bitersweet. We all know thee procomps flow better but will a street strip engine truly take advantage of all of that extra flow ? The combustion chamber design yes and the ability to run higher compression is a big advantage. It comes down to needs, money , and personal prefrence. You can lead a horse to water but that does not mean it will drink. Im not arguing the procomps benifits . but not everyone needs heads with high flow numbers and big valves either. I have had both iron heads on diffrent ends of the spectrum. I have had freshened up heads. and heads that short of porting are all out competition heads. Someone asked what are the best olds heads. and if someone was to get a set of good sbo heads you usuallyu recommend 5's - 7A's Now if someone wanted aluminum i thing that question would be specified.

 

I agree, but once again, for a few$ more, the benefits and performance gains are worth it. Also, very few on this board can port their own heads proprly, myself included.

 

What in the world does this mean???? You talk in circles sometimes. YES, a street engine will take advantage of larger valves and better flow!! Again, for the gazillionth time, we are talking about starting from scratch and building heads for a hot street engine with some gear, compression, and cam. The Pro Comps perform better for a marginal increase in cost. It really is a no-brainer.

 

i think in circles because im on the fence so it makes no sense to people who think in a particular way. if i was building from scratch i think everyone here knows i would scrounge the ad's to find what i needed at a good price. which i always do. I have seen aluminum headed sbo's that have ran not so impressive numbers,

 

Another nonsensical post from you. Never has an iron-headed build under-performed?

 

I'm sticking with iron heads for the ease of use and reliability. I can port my own which takes the cost down and I don't have the money for a new fuel pump and lines or additional costs of milling a set of pro comps. If someone doesn't have the money, stick with stock stuff that has worked for decades. Also, detonation and power are no different on aluminum or iron. Granted, this was on a Chevy and I know someone is gonna swear up and down that it's different but has no evidence...or testing...just "I know a guy". This was done by Car Craft...what do they know?

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...t/viewall.html

Best small block head...5, 6, 7, 7a, 5a....just in case we went of course a little...

 

I never said they didn't. why do you like to read into whats not there. You see., to you apperantly having my own thoughts bugs the crap out of you do you know why i think that way. i shouldnt even have to explain my self as we are all entitled to our own thoughts. So who here is nonsensical. You can like pepsi all you like and tell me to quit drinking coca cola becasue of whatever dumbass reason but just becasue you feel it quenches your thirst wont mean it will quench mine. i hope that makes sense to you.

 

Wait, I missed one...if you have money, buy aluminum, or spend $500 on used aluminum and another $400 in machining to do it right...

 

[QUOTE

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...t/viewall.html

.[/QUOTE]

I've already said this, but I'll say it again. That article compares 2 heads, one aluminum, one iron, BUT THEY ARE BOTH NEARLY THE SAME DESIGN FOR CRISSAKES! Read the effen article! It's not apples to apples in our case, period. The irons and aluminums in this discussion are 2 heads of different design and flow numbers. It ain't the same, got it? Geez!!

 

It's the same in the argument of whether one "prevents" detonation over another...

 

That's not what you said. Who said anything about detonation here? We're talking power and cost.

 

On those heads....well damn...looks like this pissing match is over....back to studying. I'm moving to Sarasota in a couple months. Does this mean we can't be friends? haha

 

The problem with your "thoughts" is that you seem to have trouble expressing them clearly. You are ceratainly entitled to your opinion, but when you post those in open forums, they can be challenged, as can mine or anyone else. You just continue to post things that make no sense.

 

Again, like Mark stated, not the same. The pro Comps have many advantages over cast heads, better flow, better chamber, bigger valved, crossover blocked, dividers welded, lighter. Not the same, at all.

Also, are you saying the 5A head is a viable option on a hot 350?

 

OK lets see, I had a 68' Ram Rod (W31) min. NHRA weight @ 3268 weighed 3428 with me in it. Short block built by John Troxel, the Flying Plumber, using 1975 technology dynoed @ 430 HP/425 ft. tq. with cast pistons, stock rods/crank, and valve train turning 6800 rpm side stepping the clutch off the line and shifting a Liberty 2:89 close ratio (had Super T-10 gear set welded on to the Muncie shafts) trans. @ 7,000 rpm and ran 11:90 s @ 114.5 mph (yes 114.5 mph which indicates horse power) thru the lights with #6 iron heads blue printed by Racing Head Service!!!!!!!!!

Dudes, it is the combination!!!! Not one thing that makes a car run well. Currently I have BBO Olds drag car with home ported "E" heads, mild build est. HP @ 550 in a 3550 # Olds post coupe and runs 7:00s in the 1/8 @ 98 mph and 11:10 @ 119 mph in the 1/4. again it is "the combination"

 

Careful some people may hound you about what you prefer or worse your opinion.

 

They better not Dave has forgotten more than most know!!!

 

huh, plus I do not give a hoot!

I know what works old school so I am learning "new school" with my "new" 70' Cutlass S post coupe drag car. Education, asking questions, being humble, and talking with the people who are running well helps! LOL

Being with Olds and showing people/sponsors my desire to win and support their products propelled me to be successful in drag racing.

just my 2 cents.

Oh, and thank you 442rocketdave for your positive comment!

Flame on my people

 

That's correct when your "opinion" doesn't make any sense when you're suggesting he buy more stuff and he's clearly trying to use what he has first.

 

I guess since dave said there is nothing wrong with iron heads it won't make sense to you either. Mark it's like shooting fish in a barrel I say someting and somehow I know you guys will be right there ready to counteract. Kinda sad. Specially since like I said opinions are one's thoughts that can't be correct or wrong since it's what an individual belives. Kinda like religion.

 

The thread that won't died. So let's recap. Which head did we agree on? Lol Ken

 

The kind of head we can't talk about here.

 

Now you are Talking !!!

 

I'm glad I'm not the only Oldsmobile nerd in this world.

 

Is it my Birthday already

 

A bottle of wine usually does the trick.

 

I picked these up during this thread 1000 to my door Brand new still in box

 

Where?

 

sweet deal firefrost.

 

Bridge port pennsylvania they were for a build he ended up going a different direction ( Bow tie) . I knew no matter what i couldn't get hurt.Was playing around with them they weigh 33.2 Had a set Of E heads they were 57.4 . A stock iron intake was 60 pounds I had a O4B on the bench it was 19.5 so about 88 pounds less for the two heads and intake .

 

Aluminum headed budget build anyone lol. Oh wait some will say that it's unfair since you cashed on someones short comings lol. That is one helluva deal .

 

firefrost Gold if you get an aluminum water pump it will almost make a hundred pounds even and that is good for 1/10 in the quarter plus the performance gain in the intake and heads!!! What a deal for the heads!!

 

i would think a set of headers would drop some pounds also I had not thought of the water pump who makes a good one??

 

Well I see this thread is still going nowhere and has come to no conclusion since I've been gone. Seems as tho most guys are not ad hering to the best SB head question. Most heads talked about seem to be BBs. A #5 W-31 is probably the best but good luck finding a pair of them in a bone yard. Porting and milling can get you close, but then modify the intake to fit.

The only way to find out if you are porting is doing any good is a flowbench. Without flow numbers it don't mean shyt.

 

I think lots have said their " Thoughts " just as OP asked for . No right , no wrong I would pick Edelbrocks

 

I guess to some we all have to agree to what they like otherwise we are idiots.

 

So if all this work is being done to the heads how about the Intale should and how much would port matching or porting help with stock iron heads that are reworked ?

 

it all depends on the build and the engines demands. I ran a high 13 sec engine on stone stock 72 7a heads. No big valves nothing fancy. Just 380 dollars to freshen them up and that was it. I think part of the reason for the mixed opinions Is people have diffrent personal goals. lets say you build an engine like i had. A high 13 sec. car then spray some nitrous and you are in the 12's and you didnt need a ton of money in the heads. That is just for an example. Now you compare my #6 heads to procomps had the procomps been out the procomps would have been my choice becasue of the goals i had and what i wanted to do and spending a little more would have been good at that point. Again not eveyone will spend what i spent running iron heads my #6's cost me around 1000 and the 72 7a's cost me 380 dollars. It all comes down to goals.