When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Location: Colorado Springs Colorado/Thousand Oaks Ca
Posts: 1,721
Originally Posted by olds 307 and 403
There have been a few to track with his parts and expertise, does that count? If I can get my *** in gear, I may build my 350 first with pistons and rods that would not exist without his help. I have to go all the way to Saskatoon, 4 hours away to run the 1/4 mile.
"There have been a few to track with his parts and expertise"
Location: Colorado Springs Colorado/Thousand Oaks Ca
Posts: 1,721
Originally Posted by cutlassefi
Thank you.
Besides the fact that it’s not done, why would I post a Dyno sheet, you don’t know how to read one anyway, certainly not when it comes to HP vs TQ.
"The Tuner" your right I don't understand many of the tests from Matt Scranton's dyno, I did understand your last one the L31 motor. I look forward to your testing.
Can you post detailed pictures of road racing cars that specifically utilize your fuel injection setups?
Last edited by VORTECPRO; December 11th, 2020 at 08:28 PM.
H
Here you go, and Argo powered by an IR Buick V-6. I won't bother telling you what EFI system is on it cuz that would be greek to you anyway. Based on the amount of fuel it's using looks like it's making anywhere from 425-450hp. He spins it to 7800.
The tuning was done via a dozen or so datalogs cuz he's 2500 miles away. He was told it was RACE ready when he bought the car, not even close.
I'm done here except for a few points of interest.
Inline I could give a rat's behind what you think of me but you show your ignorance by not supporting ANYONE who helps the hobby, your hobby..
Velcro you mentioned you would just have Battenrunner or Harold tune an EFI application for you. So you're more concerned about what someone else is running at the track instead of learning something to better serve your customers? I knew you didn't have the brain capacity for anything other than the simple stuff.
So, if you build an engine for a customer and they want EFI, and Harold or Ryan tunes it, but by chance they made a mistake somewhere in the tune and it fries a piston, who pays for that? You? Them? You don't know enough to know where and when it could've happened so how would you be able to make sure it doesn't happen? Suppose it's just an honest oversight by either one of those guys, again who pays for it?
Instead of learning something that isn't going away anytime soon, you're more concerned about what Dan Macal or anyone else ran at the track. Nice way to really to look out for your customer. You're not nearly as intelligent as you'd like people to think you are. You just removed all doubt if there ever was any.
Last edited by cutlassefi; December 14th, 2020 at 06:54 PM.
Location: Colorado Springs Colorado/Thousand Oaks Ca
Posts: 1,721
Never had any burned pistons from EFI so I wouldn't know. As far as my customers go you won't see anything like this come out of my shop. Whats better than MPH over a standing 1320 feet for determining HP.
Proven Performance = Credibility
And your worried about my customers, is this not your work? Who paid for this? Panos Build Panos build Panos build
Last edited by VORTECPRO; December 14th, 2020 at 07:19 PM.
All we need is a Liberal sucks and Trump rules thread and we can be ROP🤨. That site is now a ghost town other than politics. Do we really want that here? It started with pissing matches. If you don't love Oldsmobile's and their cool V8, Warts and all, spend your time elsewhere. Maybe myself thinking a sbc, BBC or LS is a Baboon's heart in an Oldsmobile is backwards and drives people from Oldsmobile ownership as well🤷♂️. This is Classic Oldsmobile after all, we are here for our Oldsmobile's and expanding our knowledge.
All we need is a Liberal sucks and Trump rules thread and we can be ROP🤨. That site is now a ghost town other than politics. Do we really want that here? It started with pissing matches. If you don't love Oldsmobile's and their cool V8, Warts and all, spend your time elsewhere. Maybe myself thinking a sbc, BBC or LS is a Baboon's heart in an Oldsmobile is backwards and drives people from Oldsmobile ownership as well🤷♂️. This is Classic Oldsmobile after all, we are here for our Oldsmobile's and expanding our knowledge.
Don't run off other brands the site mods will come down on you. This isn't just a Oldsmobile site anymore. No need to stir the pot. Let them express themselves.
Yeah, I know, the world has changed and I stir the pot as well. I bash sbc, ls and bbc because they mean nothing to me. It doesn't mean they are junk, just so overdone, seeing one under the hood is sleeping pill. A person can buy a new Camaro if they want chebby's latest and greatest machine. Buick is an embarrassment and Cadillac tanked their cool new V8. For us Olds guys, there is nothing new and cool for us, heck anyone else who liked GM divisions, same thing, other than new parts for our outdated Olds V8's.
Hey 307/403, you've thrown plenty of gasoline on those political fires at ROP so easy does it with the holier than thou routine. Other than that, I generally enjoy your posts. And I LOVE Oldsmobile V8's, warts and all.
Location: Colorado Springs Colorado/Thousand Oaks Ca
Posts: 1,721
Originally Posted by olds 307 and 403
All we need is a Liberal sucks and Trump rules thread and we can be ROP🤨. That site is now a ghost town other than politics. Do we really want that here? It started with pissing matches. If you don't love Oldsmobile's and their cool V8, Warts and all, spend your time elsewhere. Maybe myself thinking a sbc, BBC or LS is a Baboon's heart in an Oldsmobile is backwards and drives people from Oldsmobile ownership as well🤷♂️. This is Classic Oldsmobile after all, we are here for our Oldsmobile's and expanding our knowledge.
I really should build a 455 Olds run it in my Buick then sell it. Build it will all production parts, crank, rods, heads, cast iron factory intake, Q-Jet, modified pan, HEI. Any one interested in the thread like that?
I really should build a 455 Olds run it in my Buick then sell it. Build it will all production parts, crank, rods, heads, cast iron factory intake, Q-Jet, modified pan, HEI. Any one interested in the thread like that?
stock rods? modified Pan? HEI?
We already know you have the ability to build HP/TQ in any engine!
Last edited by Bernhard; December 15th, 2020 at 06:21 PM.
Location: Colorado Springs Colorado/Thousand Oaks Ca
Posts: 1,721
Originally Posted by Bernhard
stock rods? modified Pan? HEI?
We already know you can build HP/TQ in any engine!
Ya all that, thanks for the confidence! Sure would be fun project and I have the parts. I don't think it would make a lot of HP, because I wouldn't spend a bunch of money on it, but it would run 10s. I've thought about this before.
Last edited by VORTECPRO; December 15th, 2020 at 06:24 PM.
ya all that, thanks for the confidence! Sure would be fun project and i have the parts. I don't think it would make a lot of hp, because i wouldn't spend a bunch of money on it, but it would run 10s. I've thought about this before.
Exactly, buy an Olds, deals are still out there, especially if you are moving to the rot free South. Build yourself a 1/4 mile, show time slips and everything going into the build, including if you are using stock rods, their clearances etc. Any info on bottom end tricks to get them to live at the track is helpful when it comes to a 455.
I really should build a 455 Olds run it in my Buick then sell it. Build it will all production parts, crank, rods, heads, cast iron factory intake, Q-Jet, modified pan, HEI. Any one interested in the thread like that?
Yes please, I’m also interested in the chassis set up as well. I am fascinated with stock, near stock engines running quick times with a dialed in chassis. The F.A.S.T class is my favorite racing class.
I really should build a 455 Olds run it in my Buick then sell it. Build it will all production parts, crank, rods, heads, cast iron factory intake, Q-Jet, modified pan, HEI. Any one interested in the thread like that?
I really should build a 455 Olds run it in my Buick then sell it. Build it will all production parts, crank, rods, heads, cast iron factory intake, Q-Jet, modified pan, HEI. Any one interested in the thread like that?
Yep! Do it. Lot of people with bolt on mentality that don't realize what you can do with factory parts with good machining and planning.
I really should build a 455 Olds run it in my Buick then sell it. Build it will all production parts, crank, rods, heads, cast iron factory intake, Q-Jet, modified pan, HEI. Any one interested in the thread like that?
Yes, please do !
If possible a before dyno on the engine as found would be great.
Maybe you could use a 1976 455. Similar to Car Crafts famous Junker to Thumper Pontiac 455 article. It cant get any worse than the 190 HP and 350 LB FT rated version.
The key difference between your build and there's will be that they exclusively used aftermarket parts for the upgrades IIRC.
Did the 455 stay with the N crank till the end or did they go lightweight as well? If so, that could be interesting if a lightweight crank will survive multiple 1/4 mile passes.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; December 18th, 2020 at 06:14 AM.
Location: Colorado Springs Colorado/Thousand Oaks Ca
Posts: 1,721
Originally Posted by 69CSHC
Yes, please do !
If possible a before dyno on the engine as found would be great.
Maybe you could use a 1976 455. Similar to Car Crafts famous Junker to Thumper Pontiac 455 article. It cant get any worse than the 190 HP and 350 LB FT rated version.
The key difference between your build and there's will be that they exclusively used aftermarket parts for the upgrades IIRC.
Lets not get carried away, I have a virgin 71 Toro core, but a the 425 looks very interesting to me as well, either way I have to be able to sell the engine when I'am done. I would use my Buick to test the Olds engine, I'am not going to build a whole new car just to test a engine.
Location: Colorado Springs Colorado/Thousand Oaks Ca
Posts: 1,721
Originally Posted by olds 307 and 403
Did the 455 stay with the N crank till the end or did they go lightweight as well. If so, that could be interesting if a lightweight crank will survive multiple 1/4 mile passes.
I've never had ANY problem with my Olds 455 engines, racing every week for years at a time, street racing. I also remember during this time a business man type guy had a beautiful 1970 Cutlas SX red loaded with air and every option, very heavy and it ran 12.00 back in the 80s, I remember him telling me Greg Gruelich built the engine, TRW pistons Comp 280 cam. I think it comes down to precision machine work with these engines. I remember back in the early 80s a guy out of Fort Morgan Colorado showed up AT Bandimere with a red 71 W-30, the car ran 12.97 which is very fast at that altitude, I asked him about the car, he said he hurt the original W-30 engine so he pulled the cam out and the heads off and put them in a Delta 88 455 short block not rebuilt. Point is a virgin Delta 88 short block DOES not have lose clearances, but it worked, so I guess my point is make sure your machine shop is up to the task-super important.
Location: Colorado Springs Colorado/Thousand Oaks Ca
Posts: 1,721
Originally Posted by 83hurstguy
Yep! Do it. Lot of people with bolt on mentality that don't realize what you can do with factory parts with good machining and planning.
I see no reason I can't make similar power to the engine I built above with ported iron heads and a solid lifter cam. The engine I took out of my Buick made 514 HP after 3 seasons and ran high 10s, so 10s should be no problem.
I've never had ANY problem with my Olds 455 engines, racing every week for years at a time, street racing. I also remember during this time a business man type guy had a beautiful 1970 Cutlas SX red loaded with air and every option, very heavy and it ran 12.00 back in the 80s, I remember him telling me Greg Gruelich built the engine, TRW pistons Comp 280 cam. I think it comes down to precision machine work with these engines. I remember back in the early 80s a guy out of Fort Morgan Colorado showed up AT Bandimere with a red 71 W-30, the car ran 12.97 which is very fast at that altitude, I asked him about the car, he said he hurt the original W-30 engine so he pulled the cam out and the heads off and put them in a Delta 88 455 short block not rebuilt. Point is a virgin Delta 88 short block DOES not have lose clearances, but it worked, so I guess my point is make sure your machine shop is up to the task-super important.
...this has nothing to do with what he was asking.
To his point, pretty sure 455 cranks were never compromised by the pursuit of light-weighting. They stopped putting them in cars by the time GM started trying that trick on the small blocks.
...this has nothing to do with what he was asking.
To his point, pretty sure 455 cranks were never compromised by the pursuit of light-weighting. They stopped putting them in cars by the time GM started trying that trick on the small blocks.
Being a 71 motor makes it a moot point. Bill mentioned the lightweight cranks. We saw a SB break in 3 pieces with a manual a good power in a 403 on this site. I can do a strength test on my 76 crank. I bet breaking it in half won't be hard.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; December 18th, 2020 at 09:02 AM.
Yeah, VTP doesn’t know Oldsmobiles well enough to even understand your question, much less answer it.
Bill mentioned the lightweight cranks. We saw a SB break in 3 pieces with a manual a good power in a 403 on this site. I can do a strength test on my 76 crank. I bet breaking it in half won't be hard.
I don’t have the book in front of me, but I don’t recall lightweight big block cranks...it’s also been awhile since I read through it. They did change from nodular iron to cast iron. That’s a fairly substantial change in strength.
The engine has to be desirable to own after testing. A 425 with its short stroke and steel crank would be desirable. A 455 with a quality piston and aftermarket rods would be more desirable than a stock rod build.
There has been some racers that have done well with the stock rods in there 400 E & 425 builds. I know there has also been some 455 racers that have made the stock rod work for them but I also know of many that have not had success using the stock rod.
The Tornado intake would have to be replaced by a rear wheel drive intake from pre EGR preferable.
Last edited by Bernhard; December 18th, 2020 at 10:34 AM.
Location: Colorado Springs Colorado/Thousand Oaks Ca
Posts: 1,721
Originally Posted by Bubba68CS
Yeah, VTP doesn’t know Oldsmobiles well enough to even understand your question, much less answer it.
I don’t have the book in front of me, but I don’t recall lightweight big block cranks...it’s also been awhile since I read through it. They did change from nodular iron to cast iron. That’s a fairly substantial change in strength.
I know them well enough to know a 1971 cast 455 crank is not a problem. The small blocks I know nothing about.
Location: Colorado Springs Colorado/Thousand Oaks Ca
Posts: 1,721
Originally Posted by Bernhard
The engine has to be desirable to own after testing. A 425 with its short stroke and steel crank would be desirable. A 455 with a quality piston and aftermarket rods would be more desirable than a stock rod build.
There has been some racers that have done well with the stock rods in there 400 E & 425 builds. I know there has also been some 455 racers that have made the stock rod work for them but I also know of many that have not had success using the stock rod.
The Tornado intake would have to be replaced by a rear wheel drive intake from pre EGR preferable.
I agree the engine has to desirable, but making the factory rod work is not a problem. If I was to build this engine the pistons would be high end and very light. My idea is solid lifter, production headed, cast iron intake 455, if it didn't sell it would go on a cradle in my garage with the rest of them. Oval honed rods are manditory IMO on any rod in a Olds 455.
I know them well enough to know a 1971 cast 455 crank is not a problem. The small blocks I know nothing about.
...which has nothing to do with what Olds 307 and 403 was talking about. That’s a nodular iron crank that can handle just about anything the block can handle.
I looked through Bill's book, he does claim there is light weight cranks in later 455's. Of course his book is wrong for the years of production for changes etc. I believe he says 400 hp is the max for the lightweight cranks.
I looked through Bill's book, he does claim there is light weight cranks in later 455's. Of course his book is wrong for the years of production for changes etc. I believe he says 400 hp is the max for the lightweight cranks.
Thanks for the follow up! I saw an old thread from cutlassefi saying he wouldn’t use the cast cranks much past 350 hp, so they may be the same thing.
Thanks for the follow up! I saw an old thread from cutlassefi saying he wouldn’t use the cast cranks much past 350 hp, so they may be the same thing.
Correct.
The “lightweight” cranks are 73-76 big block cranks that are no longer Nodular. They are a true cast crank, not very strong in that configuration.
The same holds true with later model 350’s as well as 403’s. I wouldn’t use those cranks either in anything making decent power, not even if they were internally balanced.
Hope this helps.
December 11th, 2020, 05:19 PM
