Wheel hubs for 1966 Dynamic
#1
Wheel hubs for 1966 Dynamic
Hello Olds friends. Does anybody know if these wheel hubs would work for a 1966 Dynamic?--
https://www.opgi.com/cutlass/CH30556/
If not, do you know a source for 66 B-body wheel hubs?
Thanks a million,
Craig
https://www.opgi.com/cutlass/CH30556/
If not, do you know a source for 66 B-body wheel hubs?
Thanks a million,
Craig
#2
Hello Olds friends. Does anybody know if these wheel hubs would work for a 1966 Dynamic?--
https://www.opgi.com/cutlass/CH30556/
If not, do you know a source for 66 B-body wheel hubs?
Thanks a million,
Craig
https://www.opgi.com/cutlass/CH30556/
If not, do you know a source for 66 B-body wheel hubs?
Thanks a million,
Craig
You have to really try to hurt the hubs. What's wrong that new studs or bearings and races can't fix?
#3
Thanks for your response, Joe. When I got my Cragar SS wheels a couple of weeks ago, the dudes at the tire place discovered balance weights welded onto the wheel hubs in front (and onto the backing plate in back). They knocked 'em off when a chisel and hammer so the wheels would go on flush. Now there's a little bit of shimmy in the ride at some speeds. So....I figured I'd just try to find nice machined wheel studs that didn't need any balancing.
#4
Thanks for your response, Joe. When I got my Cragar SS wheels a couple of weeks ago, the dudes at the tire place discovered balance weights welded onto the wheel hubs in front (and onto the backing plate in back). They knocked 'em off when a chisel and hammer so the wheels would go on flush. Now there's a little bit of shimmy in the ride at some speeds. So....I figured I'd just try to find nice machined wheel studs that didn't need any balancing.
#5
If, by dumb luck, you still have the old weights and can identify where they came off of, there is a way to get the balance pretty darn close. You would have to add a smaller weight out toward the outside diameter of the wheels. The distance from the center of the hub x the old weight (inch/ounces) would be divided by the distance to the new weight location. For example: a 3 oz. weight, 4" from the center, would be 12 in/oz. If the weights that they are placing on your new wheels are at 7.5", you would add 12/7.5, or 1.6 oz. The weights would have to be in the same direction, radially, as the original weights. It works.
#7
Thanks for your response, Joe. When I got my Cragar SS wheels a couple of weeks ago, the dudes at the tire place discovered balance weights welded onto the wheel hubs in front (and onto the backing plate in back). They knocked 'em off when a chisel and hammer so the wheels would go on flush. Now there's a little bit of shimmy in the ride at some speeds. So....I figured I'd just try to find nice machined wheel studs that didn't need any balancing.
Weights on the drum would look like this:
#8
Joe: No, I don't know what I'm asking about. Honestly. I don't know the name of all these parts. To add to the confusion, I've seen contradictory names used for the same thing, and local people I talk to don't know a coil from a condenser. Thus, my inconsistent use of terminology. I'm a fast learner though, and I appreciate your kind assistance. One day I hope to be a Joe.
The lugs/drums/hubs/whatever are now covered by the Cragar SS wheels, but you can see what I'm talking about in the 2 photos. The arrows point to the places where the weights were removed. In the photo showing 2 arrows, there were actually 3 weights removed, but you can't see the mark for the middle weight.
This one had 3 weights on it
This one had 1 weight on it
The lugs/drums/hubs/whatever are now covered by the Cragar SS wheels, but you can see what I'm talking about in the 2 photos. The arrows point to the places where the weights were removed. In the photo showing 2 arrows, there were actually 3 weights removed, but you can't see the mark for the middle weight.
This one had 3 weights on it
This one had 1 weight on it
#9
That's the brake drum, as in the photo I posted above. Again, I question the quality of the work from this shop if they did that. The weights are there for a reason. Removing them will cause imbalance. If they removed the weights, the need to balance the wheels on the car to compensate for the loss of balance. This is their responsibility, especially if they knocked the weights off without your approval.
#11
The quandary was that the wheels would not fit onto the car with the weights in place. The Cragars wouldn't lay flush with them in the way. So, it was either remove them or not have wheels. Should they have balanced the new wheels? Yes.
My inclination now is to find a couple of drums that don't require any kind of balancing. I suspect that will be difficult.
My inclination now is to find a couple of drums that don't require any kind of balancing. I suspect that will be difficult.
#12
#14
#17
I would think somewhere in GA someone has an on car tire balance machine. If you still have the weights they knocked off you can have them welded back on and use a thin spacer to off set the wheels.
#18
Rocketman: I've heard of those Hunter dynamic balancers. What a great tool that must be. If I were closer I would definitely come by with some beers and we'd balance the heck out of it.
Oldcutlass: Yes, I'll probably find a shop with a dynamic balancer of some sort. Those weights are long gone, though.
--> Here's an idea. I may just go to Harbor Freight and get one of those bubble balancers. Use it for the wheels & tires first, and then for the drums. It will be interesting to see what kind of results I get.
Oldcutlass: Yes, I'll probably find a shop with a dynamic balancer of some sort. Those weights are long gone, though.
--> Here's an idea. I may just go to Harbor Freight and get one of those bubble balancers. Use it for the wheels & tires first, and then for the drums. It will be interesting to see what kind of results I get.
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