I was wondering if anyone has a good gas gauge available for sale for a 1971 Cutlass Supreme. I need one to replace my gauge that 2 of the electrical connections pins came off. This is the gauge with the idiot lights. Thanks

 

I have one. How does $30 shipped sound? I can get you a picture this evening.

 

Sounds good. I am going to try to fix mine, but would not hurt to have a spare in case that does not go well. Please post a picture of front and back when you get a chance. I have noticed looking at photos of these that some have less pins than mine does.

 

I think I have a couple. Is your highbeam indicator light blue or red? I know they changed sometime between 70 and 72.

 

The gauges are the same for 70/71 and some of 72. After Jan/Feb 72 the gas gage c/w idiot lights also included the 'fasten seat belts' warning light. Red high beam in 70/71. Blue in 72.

The pins can be re-soldered into place, just have to have a steady hand and touch with the soldering iron.

 

I was going to say blue, but it probably has the red like Allen R stated. I am likely thinking of my newer cars. I have had the car 2 years and probably only used the high beams once right after purchase. I guess I would be interested in the red high beam indicator.
I also looked at the thread on the 73-77 Oldsmobile website and read the post about using the screws to fix it.

 

The high beam indicator plastic is easy to change if it bothers you. For the amount of driving you'll likely do at night during the cruise season??? Not worth it.

 

1970 was the last year for the red hi beam lens. '71 & forward used blue. Cars built after Jan 1, 1972 had the "fasten seat belt" reminder in the bottom of the regular fuel gauge. If your car was ordered with the rally pack "&" built after Jan 1 of '72, then the fasten seat belt light was in a separate pod located on the top center of the dash.

 

Actually I just had a thought, the high beam indicator is on the Speedometer just under the 60mph mark. The gas gauge is what I messed up. I was also thinking that the color of the high beam indicator would not be much of an issue since it won't be used much anyway.

 

The only gas gauge I can find right now is damaged. I know I have a few others somewhere but it may be a while before I can find them. I'm sure oldspackrat or somebody else here can help you.

 

uhhh, yeah, that's right.

It would help some of the guys if you posted your location. As mentioned, there is Scott and Eric in Indiana, Tom in LA, John in OR, etc. Shipping is the issue so the closer the better, right?

 

I have one. $30 shipped. I will get you some pictures.

 

Bam! Just like that. I'm sure it's going to look good. Get good pics of the pins on the back for him Eric.

 

Couple pictures

 

Cool, it's even date coded 2-70

 

I have a question. I have noticed the gas gauge needles seem to read way off the normal position in a lot of photos I see. Is that what they do when disconnected and moved around a lot. I see all the pins are there and the back is just like mine without the broken pins. I was thinking I would just use the circuit board and transfer to my pod. I already have the circuit board off of mine and started to try the screw fix method. I think it would work with longer screws that would take the place of the broken pins.

Jensenracing77, I would be interested in your gauge if the needle position is normal. If you want to send me a private message, we can work out the payment details. The $30 sounds good to me.

Thanks to all of you for your help on this.

 

I can hook it to a gas gauge and test it to be sure the range is good. I will PM you after work today

 

Thanks, I am guessing it is probably ok, but good to double check. I have noticed mine read a 1/2 tank and it has slowly crept to 3/4 from me just moving it around a bit.

 

That is normal when they have no power.

 

I just tested it and it works good. No bouncy needle either. Nice and slow like it should be. It is not a perfect show piece but will look and work good when installed.

 

Jensenracing77, I am definitely interested in purchasing the gauge from you. It looks good in the photos, probably about the same as mine. PM me with how you would like to proceed with payment. Thanks again for your help.

 

The pins on the pictured circuit board look the same as the ones I have on my '68 and '69. In the case of the '68 I have a couple of pins break off. I'm not a steady hand with a soldering gun so I looked for another method to fix the pins and found one that worked. If you have the same pins, they are hollow inside. What I did was use a small screw and put it in through the back side of the circuit board into the pin. If you try it, you need to be very slow and deliberate to make sure the screw threads into the pin. When I did it, the pin snugged down nicely to the circuit board and I haven't had a problem with it since then. You might give that a try.


Randy C.

 

Thanks Randy, I have been working on that same solution that was shared with me on my first post about repairing/soldering the pins in the Electrical forum. I have some screws I found at the local hardware store. I was able to thread them through the board, but they are just a bit too wide and just keep trying to split my hollow pin open and only go in about 3/16 and the pin is about 6/16. Do you remember how far your screw went into the pin? I even thought of getting a longer version of my screw and just use it without the pin on it, but I would hate to damage the harness. I did purchase Eric's gauge so I will be able to get up and running, but I would like to fix my old one as well as a backup for future.

 

I think I have my fix on the old gauge. I am attaching the link for the post I entered under the R&R electrical section. I also have Jensenracing77 shipping me a good used unit as well in case this does not do the trick.https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post914566

 

I'm trying to recall the size of screw I used. I believe it was an 8mm machine-threaded screw that I got at a hobby shop and it self-threaded into the pin about half the length of the pin. I hade to do 3-4 pins. I wrote an article about it in JWO back in 2007 or so. I see in another thread at this site on a '69 where a person did pretty much the same thing. The follow-on recommendation is good, too, about putting a layer of silicon lube on the pin.


Randy C.