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I have a broken switch (connected to the torque converter?) on my '67 98, 425 with the 4 barrel carb. The switch supports the whole throttle linkage, so the car is inoperable without it. Any help locating is greatly appreciated!
I have a 1967 98 with a broken switch in the throttle linkage. I think the switch is connected to the torque converter and probably isn't very important except that it supports the entire throttle linkage. When it broke the car died, I need a new one. I posted in parts wanted but if anyone here has any ideas I'm all ears. 425 with a four barrel. Thank you!
That switch is very important as it controls the switch pitch torque converter and passing gear kickdown as well as being the pivot point in the linkage. Patience, someone will answer your ad.
You are now on the hunt for this “LIttlefuse” combined kickdown/switch pitch throttle switch, or the alternative adjustable one which was used in these years beginning in 1965. Over time the pot metal they used gets weak, especially if someone before you adjusted it badly and set the carb rods up so that they stressed the switch in use or at WOT operation. (Been there. Freely admit I did that when you & less experienced.)
One thing you can do short run is drill a couple of small holes in the mounting part (the bottom piece here) and temporarily use Zip Ties to hold it all back together. Plus maybe some JB weld. The action will be sloppy, but it should get you back on the road. Be sure to zip tie it in such a way that you don’t block the rotary operation of the throttle.
I have a couple of posts under my user name for servicing and maintaining these now rare switches. Have a look. There are basically 3 switches that will serve your needs: 2 that were intended for use in the big cars and the Cutlass /442 one which is not adjustable, but will do the job. The Toronado kickdown/switch pitch switch from 66 or 67 may work. I can’t recall if they’re different but I believe they’ll work.
Also call French Lake Auto parts in MN and see if they have this switch or equivalent. Ask for the 1965 98 4 door they just go in and buy the whole throttle assembly. They may not sell you just the switch, but be ready in case they don’t want to part it. They have 10-12 mid 60’s big Olds out there.
What you _don’t_ want to try is non-Olds switches from another GM brand. I’ve never found another mark’s switch that serves these functions correctly.
My last advice is the the expensive route: check out Oldsmobile Obsolete. Last I looked they had a new one for high $.
Hope this helps. Please follow up with questions if I can be of more assistance. These little things can stop an otherwise good car in its tracks.
It happened to me when my throttle/carb secondarys used to stick open (Holley Spreadbore) The fix was a hard and rapid kick on the gas pedal... yep over time I broke it.
I have a broken switch (connected to the torque converter?) on my '67 98, 425 with the 4 barrel carb. The switch supports the whole throttle linkage, so the car is inoperable without it. Any help locating is greatly appreciated!
I may can help you with the switch. Contact me @ pchopesq@aol.com
Can you post or send me a picture of the other side of the switch?
If your throttle rods are incorrectly adjusted (i.e. too short, when chasing an actually wide open throttle), when you hammer it, it puts stress on the switch and eventually it snaps.
Ask me how I know. Or how many it took me to learn in the 80’s. Young & inexperienced.
If you are using a quadrajet, when you get into adjusting the rods, take a moment to disconnect the acceleration pump on the carb. Do these adjustments with the car off.
That will leave you free to adjust the short (I think of it as the switch positioning rod) and long (I think of that as the carb opening rod) across their ranges of travel without pumping tons of fuel into the car when adjusting.
Read up on my other thread for the adjustments and test light usage, but your goal here is to open all 4 barrels of the carb to roughly 90° when the switch rotation is at the end of its to-the-floor travel. You’ll figure out that if you’re wrong on the short side, it won’t open the carb all the way (costing you power), if you set it too long, it’ll stress the switch in the same place where it broke before and you can break another one.
