350 stock cam wanted please
#1
350 stock cam wanted please
Hi guys as you know on trying to do as close to a stock freshening up on my 350 rocket as I can. I need me a cam that's stock maybe with low miles as well as rods. I don't want to do a major freshen up because I want to be able to drive it while I learn more about the art of engine building/tuning. If anyone out there has a low mile can and rods I would greatly appreciate it so I can bring some new life back into my engine.
Thanks in advance,
Bill Merbach
Thanks in advance,
Bill Merbach
#4
Hi guys as you know on trying to do as close to a stock freshening up on my 350 rocket as I can. I need me a cam that's stock maybe with low miles as well as rods. I don't want to do a major freshen up because I want to be able to drive it while I learn more about the art of engine building/tuning. If anyone out there has a low mile can and rods I would greatly appreciate it so I can bring some new life back into my engine.
Thanks in advance,
Bill Merbach
Thanks in advance,
Bill Merbach
#5
Steven I wish I had that much right now im gonna they and get the little things first and try to do the heads last since they bolt to the block and I won't have to take it apart to put them back on gonna try to wok from the bottom up
#6
Cam & Rods
Bill I have a stock cam from a 68 std (not HP W31) cam, not worn out, 75,000 miles or so, ran when pulled...and its free
And will throw in a set of pushrods, you only pay for the shipping.
p#400084 36^overlap 250^/264^ .400/.400 (350 ex. OAI)
Won't set any land speed records, but should keep in line with your budget!
Brett
And will throw in a set of pushrods, you only pay for the shipping.
p#400084 36^overlap 250^/264^ .400/.400 (350 ex. OAI)
Won't set any land speed records, but should keep in line with your budget!
Brett
#15
Morning Bill, and all. I got in a rut last night after checking the cam I had in mind, it appears I was mistaken on which one I had....
402486 48* 262*/274* .440/.440 (400 AT ex OAI, 350 w/ 269 Pol.)
"appears" to be the one I have after I saw the snout I realized it wasn't the low-est compression model. trying to be accurate, even though its a gift, I wanted you to know what you were getting. Let me know.
402486 48* 262*/274* .440/.440 (400 AT ex OAI, 350 w/ 269 Pol.)
"appears" to be the one I have after I saw the snout I realized it wasn't the low-est compression model. trying to be accurate, even though its a gift, I wanted you to know what you were getting. Let me know.
#17
OK, may not be till next week as today & tomorrow are pretty jammed up already, but I will get a pm to you when I get it all packaged & weighed etc... and as to better or not, only direct measurements will prove its merits. So... patience young Jedi...later, Brett
#27
Bill if you are broke trying to rebuild an engine will not be cheap anyway you cut it. gasket set, 50 bucks , pistons rings , 65 + , rod bearings 50 , main bearings 75 , cam bearings 35 , oil pump 45 , then there is machining. You need to have a plan of attack and make sure that what you are doing is truly necessary. I wanna see you get on the road but If you are doing a rebuild and saying you need machining Funds will be sucked dry fast. I build my budget builds bit even then I still gotta spend some decent coin. Current build im looking at about 500 in parts and 300 in machining then you add 100 for the heads.
Last edited by coppercutlass; December 18th, 2013 at 08:27 PM.
#29
There is a lot to these . what if you need to bore it 30 over than the rings are no good,if there stock you might end up spending more in the long run. good thing about gaskets is you don't have to buy a set ,take time and buy some each payday or put money away for the build.
I have jumped the gun and ended up buying things twice
Good luck
I have jumped the gun and ended up buying things twice
Good luck
#30
Current build is almost one year into it since I got the short block. You need 2 things time or money. I use up my time lol. Currently there is a member selling a 350 .030 with forged pistons with #6 heads all it needs is gaskets I belive and to be re assembled. I think it was under 600 bucks. You might be better off saving your money until something that needs less work comes up.
Last edited by coppercutlass; December 18th, 2013 at 08:29 PM.
#33
Bill I would run it like a junk yard engine. Fire it up and see what happens. I would slap it together and just run it. The reason for this is one of two things you will make mistakes and it's more expensive to make them with new parts. The second is If you get it running and it runs good you know what it takes to make it run then at that point run it to the ground. core engines are cheap and you need to address many other areas of the car.
#34
Bill I would run it like a junk yard engine. Fire it up and see what happens. I would slap it together and just run it. The reason for this is one of two things you will make mistakes and it's more expensive to make them with new parts. The second is If you get it running and it runs good you know what it takes to make it run then at that point run it to the ground. core engines are cheap and you need to address many other areas of the car.
#36
3 stone hone it. And sludge can be cleaned up with some mineral spirits and some burshes. To have a machine shop clean a block you are looking at about 75 bucks to hone about 150. Slapping it together sounds more fun to me lol. You can usually rent a hone from many auto parts stores. You would be amazed at how well a slapped together engine runs. I slapped a short block together with about 700 buck with cast almost 50 year old flat tops. I polished the rod and main journals with shoe lace and sand paper and oil , I honed it with a 3 stone hone I bought from snap on, Put new bearings , rings , cam , oil pump, I slapped a 1700 dollar top end on a 700 dollar short block . 2 years and 50 + 1/4 mile runs 5000 hard street miles later the damage showed up 4 cracked piston skirts. Good times lol . You can obviously do it cheaper than I did. But the stock stuff will take some abuse.