h&jcs

Hello all! I am looking for headers for my 1972 Cutlass Supreme with a 350 small block. I currently have a header-back dual exhaust I want to put on but I don't have headers! The exhaust is 2.5 inch.
I'm looking specifically for shorty headers, I don't have a preference on brand, and if they are not painted I plan on just painting them myself.
I plan on putting the exhaust and headers on this spring so I wanted to buy them soon.
I'm having trouble finding shorty headers for this car online at Summit Racing, Holley, etc. for some reason they don't seem to have them for the Cutlass Supreme. If anyone's got any tips, that would also be helpful!
Thank you!

Allan R

Just an FYI, the headers are the same for all Cutlass models. There's no difference in engine mounting or position regardless of what the vendor says. They are completely out to lunch on stating CS has an offset motor - it doesn't.

Shorty headers selection at summit

redoldsman

I have a set of Sanderson shorty headers that are in very good shape if you are interested. They are painted. PM me if you are interested.

h&jcs

Oh, that's exactly what I needed to know! Thank you!!

redoldsman

I don't believe any of those headers in that link will fit your car since they are all for Chevys. Here is a link to the Sanderson headers that Summit has for a 350 Oldsmobile and a link to Sanderson's website. I have also included a link for the Hedman shorties on the Summit website.

https://www.summitracing.com/search?...nderson%200351

https://www.sandersonheaders.com/san...category_id=46

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/h.../model/cutlass

Allan R

Glenn, if you look a the top of the page that the link opens to it's specific for Olds small block (7.5 L or 350) engines

h&jcs

Yes, I see that Summit says those from the other link won't fit a cutlass. The ones from your first link are mid-length and not shorties, do you know if mid-length are the same to install? I didn't want long tube because I didn't want to go through the trouble of having to move/remove the engine or anything.

h&jcs

It does say that, but when I put in that its a cutlass it says it won't fit. Do you think it will, is there anyway to know for sure without actually trying to put them on? I would prefer those since they are cheaper and shorties. @Allan R

ROCKETMAN269V

I have a "new" set of headers for a small block Olds engine in an A-body, '68 and up. Someone bought them in the hopes of installing them on a G-body and found out that they won't fit. These are FULL LENGTH headers, painted. If interested, email me direct: drolds1@bellsouth.net. Thanks, Bob.

redoldsman

Allan, if you look at the descriptions they say with Chevy engines. All the headers with the ports together in the middle are for fist generation SBC and the others with the individual ports are for Chevy LS engines. I am sure these would fit if you had a SBC or LS engine in a Cutlass neither of which ever came from the factory.
h&jcs read the comments under the header listing. I did not list any long tube headers. Long tube will give you more power but if you have a stock or near stock engine you are probably not going to get much out of them. And, they are a pain to install. Probably the most common long tube headers are Hooker. If you are interested I have a nice set of Sanderson shorties (painted) that I will take $225 for plus the shipping. If you are really interested I will get some pictures and send you. If you are not interested that is okay and I won't bother with the pictures.

h&jcs

I saw that they were not long tube, they were shorties which I wanted. Except the first link you posted said mid-length, I don't know anything about mid-length or how difficult they would be to put on the car as compared to shorties. Also, I will pm you about the headers you have.

droptopron

There is a filter to the left where you can narrow by engine family. If you select Olds V8 all those listed come up as Chevy SB

Allan R

This is one of the reasons I don't have headers on my car. I went with the N10 option on the cast iron exhaust manifolds.

redoldsman

If that old longstanding rumor about not fitting Cutlass Supreme is not enough, Summit has to make it a little more confusing.

postw30man

supposedly Doug Thorly headers. A little dinged up. $50.00 plus shipping from chandler Arizona

Fun71

Those are marked as big block (400, 425, 455) headers. The OP has a '72 with a 350, so those headers would not work.

Gerald Nickels

On my 72 H/O the engine 455 mounts are different from side to side.

Orlando 1

There are stainless steel and other 'off' brands for under $200 brand new out there. Are the Hookers that much better? I was amazed to see the price reduction for these only in the last few years. Made in China maybe?? 'Olds Cutlass Delta 65-74 350 400 455 V8 Long Tube Stainless Performance Headers' New with gaskets and fasteners $138.99. It is so cheap I worry about the quality. Anyone try these?

I think I will just repaint my old Hookers.

droptopron

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1973-1974-1...ry!11762!US!-1

I don't have any 1st hand experience with these but Thornton usually makes a good product

Fun71

That description is wrong. Small block (350) headers are different than big block (400, 425, 455) headers. The head bolt flange is the same, but they have different deck heights, so the angle of the tubes coming off the header flange is different. Using the wrong ones will result in interference issues.

70cutty

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/h.../model/cutlass

These are for small block Olds, and all you have to do is remove the starter to get them in.

nwcajun

I purchased the cheap headers to try on my build, figured for $140 shipped it was worth looking at them. The quality seems pretty good with decent welds and nice bends, one bolt on each side is a REAL pain to get! But fitment on my 455 (1971 Cutlass) with new Anchor engine mounts in place was prefect and allows enough clearance for stock starter too. They hang a little below the transmission pan, I did have to remove the brake distribution block from the frame on the drivers side and I did have to remove the oil filter/adapter on the passenger side. With the engine unbolted from the engine mounts I was able to lift the engine up some to help with the install, I also used one exhaust stud over exhaust bolts on each side too. As I was able to get a nut on those tricky two mounts over using a bolt in those,

nwcajun