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Not sure who all has followed my build thread, but long story short my '69 442 was pulled out of the PO barn and was is pretty good shape considering where it's sat and for how long.
That being said, there were a couple of minor issues with the paint..the biggest issue being just behind the drivers door due to a pocket knife when being pushed in the barn.
We tried the touch up paint route with the object of a wetsand and polish, but after doing a much less conspicuous spot aren't feeling so great about it. Here's where we sit now (went ahead and buffed it a few times just to see if it'd do anything)
Should I go ahead and try it, or since this is the worst of it just go ahead and let a professional do the filling/blending.
You might be able to give it a light sanding with some 3000 grit wet sanding to smooth it out and then polish with a buffer. To truly fix it right it would need a repaint and color match.
I had the thought of sanding and using the touch up spray along the area, that way it would have a better chance at blending..I just don't know for sure how that'd work as far as the clearing went.
I've done flat panels such as a trunk, and done this on a cheap car that didn't have much shine to begin with..never something like this.
Which Duplicolor paint am I looking for? I just picked up the "Light Addiction Red" and sprayed it on a piece of metal in the garage and it has too much red in it.
The other close one I remember was a "Dark Toreador" but using the picture test it looked almost a little too dark at the 'Zone.
I would not trust a spray can touch up. Chances are even if you get an exact match it will fade differently as time moves on. If there is a real automotive paint store in your area have them match it up in the smallest amount they will mix. Not cheap but the pigments are much more color fast and much easier to apply. Do you have a air brush sometimes that and masking tape and a buffer will do wonders....Tedd
I dont have an airbrush, but that's not a bad idea. I bought a decent sized jar of touch up paint (to be brushed on) but I suppose I could use it as if I were painting a model.
We've got a couple body/paint shops here in town, but I am shooting to do this myself if possible for 2 reasons. 1. I'm still waiting on the engine shop, and 2. It'd be much more budget friendly provided I can do a good job.
No way. They make a blending spray, but as Eric said, you don't want to try to blend on a big flat panel. The entire panel needs to be resprayed, you can cut it at body lines or natural gaps.
that opens the other can of worms though. Do I keep the non-original color or go back to Nassau Blue. That way the only thing non-original per the tag would be steering wheel (still have the original) interior color (was parchment bench, now black bucket/console) and wheels (I have later SSII's that came with the car)
that opens the other can of worms though. Do I keep the non-original color or go back to Nassau Blue. That way the only thing non-original per the tag would be steering wheel (still have the original) interior color (was parchment bench, now black bucket/console) and wheels (I have later SSII's that came with the car)
If you like the color keep it, however getting 1 panel done vs a complete paint job is a considerable cost difference. Pretty soon you'll be moving to a complete frame off.
If you like the color keep it, however getting 1 panel done vs a complete paint job is a considerable cost difference. Pretty soon you'll be moving to a complete frame off.
yeah, I know...its a great idea until price is involved 🤣
i was always under the understanding that the paint correction process was mainly for swirl marks, but my father in law stopped over and did a bit of it this evening on the issue area and it blew me away..
once the car is drivable and whatnot, I'll run it out to his garage and we'll finish the correction, do the entire car and go ahead and coat it.