Should i sand the final base coat before applying the 1st coat of clear?

Thanx,
Ted

 

I think that's a big no no , but someone with more knowledge of such things will chime in.

 

Yeah, I'd wait for one of the painting guys to chime in - but I know my base coat was sanded before the clear.

 

I think it also depends on the type of paint that you're using (enamel, etc)

Might want to give a bit more info on where you bought it and what you're using

 

I could be wrong , but I thought you sanded after the first coat , and then shoot it again but don't sand it after the last coat , and then the clear .

 

If you sprayed your basecoat you have a few hours to apply your clear you don't have to sand but if you delay to long yes you will have to sand reapply base and then clearcoat.

 

I agree with 1970442. When I painted my cutlass. After the base coat was dry. I sprayed the clear coat. There is a time frame. As there is with primer. Mine came out great.
Alb

 

You can do it a variety of ways,depending on how nice or show you want it.This can also have an effect on the depth image of the paint.You can do all of the base & clear,then sand,or do some sanding in between.I know of some killer jobs,where they sanded between each base coat,and each clear coat.What we did with the 72 was apply 4 coats of the color,sand,then apply 4 coats of clear,then sand & polish.This would satisfy 90% of the people out there,but I know it could be better.I never intended to make the 72 this nice.
When you get into the base/clear jobs,you have a window of when you can do your sanding,when the paint is softer.If you wait too long,it gets a little hard,and will take forever to sand.

 

The paint is Dupont, and the clear is 2 part urethane. The base seems dry and rough like lacquer. Do i sand the roughness out so the clear sits flat- is this how the base is suppose to be, after the second coat?

Thanx,
Ted Also known as base coat dryness....

 

X2. but what would you sand it with? 800? would you do it wet?

 

This is good info to know .... Thanks

 

Sounds like your spray gun tip was too small for spraying the base. That's why it made it dry and rough looking. Whoever sprayed it probably should have thinned the paint out a little more. You'll probably have to sand it now to get the roughness out or it'll show in the clearcoat.

 

The only time I sand basecoat is when I'm spraying graphics on a car. All the taping and re-taping and your first coat of base sits for too long and it needs to be sanded.

 

You guys were bang on!.Here's what we ended up doing.
Reduced base further
Sanded the roughness with 400
Applied base and activated-the rep at Dupont said adding activator is key
Used left over base(1part) with the clear and reducer
Came out awesome !

Will post pics when dry
Thanx,
Ted

 

The rep is right. If you don't add the activator, the base will stay soft under the clear and it'll "move". In other words, when you lean on the car, it will leave your finger prints in the clearcoat.

Glad it turned out nice.

 

Yes, unless you use activated base, you have to re base after sanding. Finger prints in the clear coat are normal. When you press your finger print into a new clear and leave a print (in a place that does not show) it should go away after awile. Other than manufactures recomondations, once you leave no print, you are ready for color sanding and buff. Some say 1 hour (to soon) up to 72 hours. I like to sand and buff the next day while a little soft. If you wait to long, it makes more work. However, you may need to buff again in 2-3 weeks to touch up. JMO Not a professional. Check out- (Spray painting 101 Autobody store) Lots of information. It has worked for me!
http://autobodystore.com/forum/index.php

 

When I first started using base I wasn't putting the activator in it and it would take months for the clear to stop moving whenever someone would lean on the car. But, it would move back into place over time. But still, it was difficult to work around.