To Etch or not to Etch
To Etch or not to Etch
I’m in the middle of wire brushing the front of my frame (see pics) I have both epoxy primer & paint and por 15. I do not have the por metal prep. This is not a frame-off, just a front-end rebuilt that has MAW’d
. My question is twofold+. Can I por 15 over this, no etching or other metal prep, (Could sandblast; but that leads to the next question), OR if I epoxy prime and paint, what is the easiest way to keep the overspray down? Hood is off, fenders still on, a lot of area to try to mask off just to paint the frame. She is a driver, not a trailer queen.
. My question is twofold+. Can I por 15 over this, no etching or other metal prep, (Could sandblast; but that leads to the next question), OR if I epoxy prime and paint, what is the easiest way to keep the overspray down? Hood is off, fenders still on, a lot of area to try to mask off just to paint the frame. She is a driver, not a trailer queen.
I'd use one form of MetalPrep or another.
Essentially the same thing (phosphoric acid compounds) is sold by a number of reliable paint companies, as well as by POR. You can also get the same thing at hardware stores and Home Depot.
I would not pay POR's price for something I could get MUCH cheaper at the Despot.
- Eric
Essentially the same thing (phosphoric acid compounds) is sold by a number of reliable paint companies, as well as by POR. You can also get the same thing at hardware stores and Home Depot.
I would not pay POR's price for something I could get MUCH cheaper at the Despot.
- Eric
Wow - a familiar sight!
YES - Use the metal prep or prep and ready. Despite my initial thoughts of it, this stuff really works.
POR15 and other paints fisheye and/or run when used on smooth surfaces. The prep chemicals etches the smooth metal into a chalkboard-like roughness, so paint really sticks! Rinse off after 20 minutes and dont let it dry.
See my underhood resto thread to how the prep etches and how nicely the paint adhered after being brushed on with cheap chip brushes. The few tiny areas I missed with the etchant, the paint kept creeping from.
Wirebrushing does not create the tiny pits that sandblasting does, so etching is important. Only if it was well sandblasted would I say skip the etch.
YES - Use the metal prep or prep and ready. Despite my initial thoughts of it, this stuff really works.
POR15 and other paints fisheye and/or run when used on smooth surfaces. The prep chemicals etches the smooth metal into a chalkboard-like roughness, so paint really sticks! Rinse off after 20 minutes and dont let it dry.
See my underhood resto thread to how the prep etches and how nicely the paint adhered after being brushed on with cheap chip brushes. The few tiny areas I missed with the etchant, the paint kept creeping from.
Wirebrushing does not create the tiny pits that sandblasting does, so etching is important. Only if it was well sandblasted would I say skip the etch.
Also didn't you just redo your grills a while back, what color of silver did you use?
Lowes is closer to me. They have a product called Jasco Indoor outdoor paint prep. Can tell what all is in it. Does it sound familiar?
I'd use one form of MetalPrep or another.
Essentially the same thing (phosphoric acid compounds) is sold by a number of reliable paint companies, as well as by POR. You can also get the same thing at hardware stores and Home Depot.
I would not pay POR's price for something I could get MUCH cheaper at the Despot.
- Eric
Essentially the same thing (phosphoric acid compounds) is sold by a number of reliable paint companies, as well as by POR. You can also get the same thing at hardware stores and Home Depot.
I would not pay POR's price for something I could get MUCH cheaper at the Despot.
- Eric
Lowes usually has all of the same stuff as Home Depot, just from different companies.
- Eric
Yep, still plugging along..I have a couple of boxes of rotors and brakes pads, another box coming from ILT that should arive Monday with new bolts and a few odds and ends. Get this frame painted........ and should be able to start puting it back together. Yea....I drew the line at the firewall for the MAWs.... I'll work on it this winter. Otherwise, I won't drive it this summer and that is unacceptbale.

Wow - a familiar sight!
YES - Use the metal prep or prep and ready. Despite my initial thoughts of it, this stuff really works.
POR15 and other paints fisheye and/or run when used on smooth surfaces. The prep chemicals etches the smooth metal into a chalkboard-like roughness, so paint really sticks! Rinse off after 20 minutes and dont let it dry.
See my underhood resto thread to how the prep etches and how nicely the paint adhered after being brushed on with cheap chip brushes. The few tiny areas I missed with the etchant, the paint kept creeping from.
Wirebrushing does not create the tiny pits that sandblasting does, so etching is important. Only if it was well sandblasted would I say skip the etch.
YES - Use the metal prep or prep and ready. Despite my initial thoughts of it, this stuff really works.
POR15 and other paints fisheye and/or run when used on smooth surfaces. The prep chemicals etches the smooth metal into a chalkboard-like roughness, so paint really sticks! Rinse off after 20 minutes and dont let it dry.
See my underhood resto thread to how the prep etches and how nicely the paint adhered after being brushed on with cheap chip brushes. The few tiny areas I missed with the etchant, the paint kept creeping from.
Wirebrushing does not create the tiny pits that sandblasting does, so etching is important. Only if it was well sandblasted would I say skip the etch.
No, I meant before the firewall, and here is where the MAW's run amok. I have new (still in box) aftermarket fenders that the guy gave me, when I bought the car. They will need painted, then the radiator support will need pulled, sandblasted repainted, bumper recromed, new brake lines, new booster. All that not in budget right now.
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