Glad it worked out for you.

 

Got the brake lines put all the lines on with the exception of the main line with little to no problem. I was a little worried about the main line, since someone told me it ran through the frame. Luckily the old one came out with just a little tugging. Was hoping the new line would go in with just as much as a effort. Luckily it went in fairly easily. Had to do a little bit of bending to get to match up with the hose in the back. When right into the distribution block though. Just thought I would share incase some one else was running hew lines. Oh, and the line did not run through the frame, just above it by the drivers side rear wheel. Now to bleed the brakes. If everything else goes that good she'll be ready for spring.

 

Ok all lines are on. I am replacing the master cylinder & thinking about replacing the distribution block as well. I kinda messed myself up though. I took the lines from the master cylinder to the block off & now forget how they go back on. Does the lines closest to the firewall go to the side top hole on the block or the side/bottom hole on the block? One line has a blueish/purple color on the threads, if that helps. Any help would be great. Pictures work too. It is a manual / drum brake car. Thanks.

 

The flare nuts are different sizes. They should only go together one way.

 

Oh ok good, Thank You

 

Well she is all buttoned up & running. Just a little hesitation (want's to stall) when I try to mash the gas before it's warmed up. After it's warmed up no problems when I get on it. It has yet to leave the garage since she's running again, but hopefully after a few laps up & down the driveway she will be ready for the road. I may try to run it out of fuel & drop the tank to "clean it out". Thank You to everyone who help me out along the way & gave me advice.

 

Check the choke static setting and the pull off setting. Whens the last time the QJet had a kit installed in it? Vacuum leaks can cause this too.

 

OK thanks will check that out. The carb was rebuilt about a month & a half ago.

 

On the Q-Jet the Air Valve Secondary, AVS, door flap spring may need adjusting (tighter) that is if the simple basics troubleshooting steps don't cure the bog.
The secondary side of the carb is/should be locked out by the choke system to not allow secondary actuation until the engines a warmer.
Push on the AVS door with engine off. It should offer some spring resistance and spring back up to the closed position with a little authority, but not a ton.

 

Ok, it's been a while since I posted an update. It still seems like I have a very slight hesitation if I floor it while it's not quite warmed up, but once it's warmed up it's fine. The only other thing I have to fix before hitting the road is to replace the water pump. It's not leaking, but the fan I can move the fan back and forth. Hopefully she'll be ready in about a few weeks.

 

The only way you will remedy this is to dive into the workings of the QJ carb. Don't be intimated.

The bog is in the carb and likely the secondary AVS clock spring adjustment.
It's too loose and opening too early...that means too much air...too lean. Usually due to the spring relaxing due to age.

Are you near Philly?

Resources:


https://cliffshighperformance.com/
https://cliffshighperformance.com/pr...et-carburetors

 

I will check this out & try my luck. The carb has been rebuilt, (not by me), but I am not sure if the AVS clock spring was replaced, adjusted, or nothing at all. Thank you for the tip, I have a pretty busy weekend ahead, but might have time during the week to check it out.

 

No you do not have a "Ram Air car". You have a cool Rallye 350 Cutlass with Outside Air Induction (OAI). Ram Air = Pontiac. OAI = Oldsmobile

 

Thank You armbrbr for answering my question.

 

Fiiiiinallly got the carb issue worked out. It turned out to be a spring in the choke that was all twisted up. It wasn't allowing the secondary to open up. That's why it was dying when it stomped on the gas. All good now. Thanks for all the help & suggestions. It's greatly appreciated. So happy to get it all done. The only problem is now it's almost time to put her to bed for the season.

 

Thanks for following up on the fix.
Do you have a clearer pic of your cowl tag?

 

I will try to post a better pic soon.

 

Ok, I need everyone's "expert" opinion. I was talking to a guy at a local car show that has another Rallye 350 & he told me that fan shrouds were standard on them, but neither of our cars have them. Were they equipped from the factory with the, were they an option, or did they not come on them.
It was something we would both like to know. He says his runs just a little hot w/o one, but I have not had a problem....yet.
Thanks for any help.

 

The 1970 Product Information Manual is pretty clear on this. Shrouds were used on V8 cars with C60 (A/C), Y72 (HD Cooling), or V01 (HD Cooling with four row core).

 

Ok, Thanks. So, no '70 Olds Rallye 350 then. I'll let him know.

 

Just to clarify, no, if you got a Rallye 350 with base L74 engine, and no A/C or HD cooling, then no shroud. Any of those three options and yes it would have come with the shroud. The shroud was not something you could order separately. It was included as part of one of those cooling packages. Note that V01 was mandatory if the 3.91 axle was ordered.

 

I do not have A/C, I have to check on the HD cooling, Not sure if I have the base L74 engine....have to check on that too. Thanks again.

 

The L74 was the only engine offered in the Rallye 350.

 

Oh, ok, thank you.