R12 A/C Conversion?
#1
R12 A/C Conversion?
I either have to convert my 1972 Cutlass AC to R134, or some other modern refrigerant, or find a source for R12.
Any recommendations, warnings, and advice is welcome, as I'm sure there's members who've been down this road before!
Thanks!
Any recommendations, warnings, and advice is welcome, as I'm sure there's members who've been down this road before!
Thanks!
#2
personally, i would stay with R12. as much as you have to pay for R12 you want to be sure your system is right before wasting it into a system that will have troubles. i find cans at local flea markets for around $25 per 14oz can. i think i can come up with 2 or 3 cans for $25ea plus shipping if interested.
#3
It has been done many times. However, tell us about your system and or plans for it. Has it worked before, how fast does it leak, etc.
If you will be rebuilding the system, that is a whole new ball game.
Yes, R12 can be had on craigslist, too.
Avoid any freon that has a sealer, or claims to be a drop in replacement for R12. They can gum up or damage the system.
If you will be rebuilding the system, that is a whole new ball game.
Yes, R12 can be had on craigslist, too.
Avoid any freon that has a sealer, or claims to be a drop in replacement for R12. They can gum up or damage the system.
#5
Now after it was disassembled, did you take care to immediately plug / cover all of the lines to make sure dust or dirt or excess moisture did not get into any of the hoses or components?
Was the system all original?
Was the system all original?
#6
I think this is the key point. Depending on how intermittent the driving really is, and how far you actually go with it when you do take it out, you might think about whether you really need to get the A/C working at all.
I had a '75 Delta 88 convertible back in the '90s, and the A/C stopped working on it about three years after I bought it. I never had it fixed because, first, the car was a convertible, so I almost always drove it with the top down, and, second, I didn't drive it that much at all as it was a collector car, so I almost never used the A/C, anyway. I thought why fix it if I never use it? I was worried that, yes, I could get it fixed, but if I never use it, it will just fail again.
If all you're going to do with this car is driving it back and forth between car shows and maybe on the occasional Sunday drive, you might not use the A/C enough to make it worth fixing. If the car were a daily driver, it would be a different story.
I had a '75 Delta 88 convertible back in the '90s, and the A/C stopped working on it about three years after I bought it. I never had it fixed because, first, the car was a convertible, so I almost always drove it with the top down, and, second, I didn't drive it that much at all as it was a collector car, so I almost never used the A/C, anyway. I thought why fix it if I never use it? I was worried that, yes, I could get it fixed, but if I never use it, it will just fail again.
If all you're going to do with this car is driving it back and forth between car shows and maybe on the occasional Sunday drive, you might not use the A/C enough to make it worth fixing. If the car were a daily driver, it would be a different story.
#7
The system was not sealed when it was disassembled, and it will be professionally restored to (as close as possible) factory condition. Summer's in GA can easily top 100 degrees, and I definitely want the system running it's best! I don't know enough to have a preference for R12 or a modern replacement, other than to keep the factory appearance. I'll probably drive the car once every couple of weeks or so year round.
#8
FYI - there is lots of R12 for sale on the internet still - even eBay has many dealers of it. Mine was switched over to 134 (was done before I bought the car - they did NOT change the POA valve though) and it works like crap. I am getting ready to order some R12 myself to go back.
#9
Sounds like you might want to go my route.
HAve the evap and condensor flushed, hoses remade with barrier hose (134 needs it), buy new dryer, test POA valve, and rebuild original A6 compressor (reseal is all it probably needs if it ran perfectly long ago).
Have an oil put in that is compatible with both R12 and 134.
Use R12 until too hard to get, then recal POA for R134 (easy), evacuate, and put in 134.
HAve the evap and condensor flushed, hoses remade with barrier hose (134 needs it), buy new dryer, test POA valve, and rebuild original A6 compressor (reseal is all it probably needs if it ran perfectly long ago).
Have an oil put in that is compatible with both R12 and 134.
Use R12 until too hard to get, then recal POA for R134 (easy), evacuate, and put in 134.
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