building an engine test stand
#1
building an engine test stand
Hey guys as I get closer to assembling my engine I'll need to test it afterwards so I need help I wanna build me an engine test stand so I can tune etc when its finished. I've heard around that you guys have done this before and want to know how to build me a decent budget friendly stand
#5
Bill, I have not done this, so I am not an expert by any means, but if you want to make a run stand, your best bet will be to make it as low as possible, and make it take the weight of the engine at or in the area of the motor mounts.
The higher the center of gravity, the harder it will be to make a stand that is stable, and while it is theoretically possible to shore up an engine stand, doing it properly would be much harder.
Since you want to use heavy lumber, I would recommend making a cradle to hold the block like the frame of the car does, possibly even with a pair of Olds frame mounts sourced from a junk car, or with the ones you plan to use when installing the engine in your car. I would build it so it would hold the oil pan an inch or two off the ground, and make its primary structure out of cross-pieces that stick out a good distance on either side, to prevent the engine from rolling over, which it may want to do. It won't want to move front-to-back on you, only side to side.
Be sure to leave room for exhaust pipes with mufflers.
- Eric
The higher the center of gravity, the harder it will be to make a stand that is stable, and while it is theoretically possible to shore up an engine stand, doing it properly would be much harder.
Since you want to use heavy lumber, I would recommend making a cradle to hold the block like the frame of the car does, possibly even with a pair of Olds frame mounts sourced from a junk car, or with the ones you plan to use when installing the engine in your car. I would build it so it would hold the oil pan an inch or two off the ground, and make its primary structure out of cross-pieces that stick out a good distance on either side, to prevent the engine from rolling over, which it may want to do. It won't want to move front-to-back on you, only side to side.
Be sure to leave room for exhaust pipes with mufflers.
- Eric
#6
Octania's suggestion is not a laughing matter it's a great idea as I know of 3 buddies using just that.
But seeing how you have some lumber you can build an engine cradle with some thought, as previously advised build it to keep the engine low to the floor. I'd use lag bolts or long bolts with nuts to assemble with, no nails.
Henry
#9
Octania's suggestion is not a laughing matter it's a great idea as I know of 3 buddies using just that.
But seeing how you have some lumber you can build an engine cradle with some thought, as previously advised build it to keep the engine low to the floor. I'd use lag bolts or long bolts with nuts to assemble with, no nails.
Henry
But seeing how you have some lumber you can build an engine cradle with some thought, as previously advised build it to keep the engine low to the floor. I'd use lag bolts or long bolts with nuts to assemble with, no nails.
Henry
#10
#12
#13
Bill I have a couple of photos of running engine stands I can post for you. The most important thing is safety. If you think that having a running engine stand for future usage is a good idea, than you should build one from steel. They are pretty simple. Make it adaptable for other brand engines. That way if you want to sell it, others will be more attracted to it. Keep the engine low. If you're going to build one from an existing engine stand, cut the bottom of the rear square tube to lower it. I'm going to build one soon, but I have a welder so it will be easy for me. These things take up a lot of space so you should consider building one that can come apart easily. If you just want to use it one time, than the wood isn't a bad idea. Build your base wide and keep it low. When I build mine it will have gauges, switch panel, electric fan, MSD box, coil, four corner outlet radiator, and a small aluminum fuel cell. I have been gathering pieces.
Dads67003.jpg
105-0590_IMG.jpg
One thing to keep in mind, some engines like Chevy's, require a bell housing to mount the starter. Olds and Fords do not. Make sure you build your stand long enough for the added space a bell housing will take up. Hope this helps.
Dads67003.jpg
105-0590_IMG.jpg
One thing to keep in mind, some engines like Chevy's, require a bell housing to mount the starter. Olds and Fords do not. Make sure you build your stand long enough for the added space a bell housing will take up. Hope this helps.
#15
Awesome I'll draw up some plans later tonight and hopefully you guys can help me improve. I would build out ta steel if I had the right kind of welder and the right experience on proper welds I can do some half a$$ welds but nothing to secure
#16
IMG_20140323_131802_zpsk8owsiog.jpg
Heres my rough draft I'm not the best at drawing I can imagine it in my head but can't put it to paper please feel free to improve as I said I'm wanting to be able to roll in the stand and bolt to my test stand
Heres my rough draft I'm not the best at drawing I can imagine it in my head but can't put it to paper please feel free to improve as I said I'm wanting to be able to roll in the stand and bolt to my test stand
#19
Here's a quick sketch of the basic structure that entered my mind - it's not great or refined, but it's a starting point:
- Eric
#23
Now I'm not sayin to do this. But back when I built my first sbc 355 I was 16. Me and a friend "borrowed" a shopping cart and "borrowed" some angle iron we saw on the side of the road and we cut up the shopping cart and braced it up with the angle iron. We spent about 15 bucks on bolts but our local hardware store works on the trust system where you bag and price the bolts your self but we actually had about 30 bucks worth of bolts lol. Now I'm not saying you should "borrow" stuff but you never know what comes up on the side of the road lol.
#24
You can also go to a local iron shop and ask them if you can buy some scrap steel for your project. Chances are a few bucks beats cents on the pound. I usually have 3 iron shops I hit up for steel since I usually need small stuff and I give em like 10 bucks and leave with what I need . Most iron shops have a scraping contract with the local foundry acme but they usually jump at the chance to pocket some cash.
#25
I've heard of AutoCAD, etc., but never used them.
I'm surprised the schools aren't starting those classes of with basic pencil and paper, though.
I'd love to be able to use it myself, but no way am I spending the dough when I have a pad of paper...
- Eric
I'm surprised the schools aren't starting those classes of with basic pencil and paper, though.
I'd love to be able to use it myself, but no way am I spending the dough when I have a pad of paper...
- Eric
#28
Here are some home made engine test stands at Homemadetools.net. By the way, if you haven't checked out that site, there are some cool home made tools there.
#29
http://www.sketchup.com/download
I use it for designing speakers boxes and mechanical templates applications. And yes, there is a tutorial...
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